New DT-1 tooling advise


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Thread: New DT-1 tooling advise

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    Default New DT-1 tooling advise

    I have a new DT-1 coming in and trying to get my tooling choices, coolant, vise, etc worked out. I cut 100% aluminum as of right now but things could change to maybe 5% steel. I will have a 12k spindle with TSC. I have been using a hobby mill and I am sure I have learned bad habits...

    Vise: Looking at the Orange dual station vise. I have a bunch of parts that fit in a 6" vise and on this machine will not take long. Figured the dual vise will let me walk away for at least a couple of minutes. I am thinking the 17.5" since I have 16" of travel and 11" from table to doors and only 1.8" behind. The 20 would hang of the table too much I think

    Coolant: Keep hearing Blaser 2000. The machine will not be used everyday and could go a week without being used.

    Endmils: I have one part that right now I outsource that I want to take in house. It is a 2.125" deep part with a decent amount of material removal. What are you guys think for a good recipe and tooling for that? I am thinking of using mostly 3fl endmills on my regular machining (<.75 DOC) and am thinking .75 3fl for this. In HSM Advisor this looks good but it is always an estimate since the way Haas specs their motor output is weird to say the least. Also I am thinking lighter WOC since again dealing with a 30 taper machine.

    Facemill: I found a thread on 45 degree facemill that you can use a certain facemill and not have issues even though the diameter is over 2" (https://en.industryarena.com/forum/n...s--359750.html) anybody else running this successfully? Hard to find a 45 degree facemill under 2"

    Drills: Most holes will be 5,6 and 8mm. New part I am bringing in house will need a 2.125 deep and just over .11/16" in diameter. TSC carbide drills.

    Toolholders: Going with Maritool unless someone has a reason not to.

    Any other suggestions?
    -Keith

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  2. #2
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    Default Re: New DT-1 tooling advise

    Learning to get the most out of my coolant has taken me a while. Mostly, because I never thought much about coolant and just got in a bad habit of replacing the stuff every six months. But then, it seemed like the coolant was going smelly after just a couple months. My coolant turned into a big pain in the butt. Hauling the old coolant to the dump being the biggest!

    A friend pushed me to switch to Blaser Swisslube. But the real answer was learning some tips and trick to get the coolant to last.

    Number one thing, get a fish tank bubbler and run it 24/7. Seems the bacteria that feeds on the tramp oil hates oxygen. Who knew? Not me.

    Second thing, get a RO machine for the water to make new coolant with. Don't keep using tap water. Junk builds up in the coolant after a couple months.

    Third, keep chips out of the coolant sump. I use Aquarium Filter Media from amazon. Cost $20 bucks for 10 feet. I have the returning coolant flowing through this stuff. Just cut off 12 inches. One piece lasts about one to two weeks. Just roll up and pitch. Here is a link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    Forth, find a way to keep the coolant stirred (circulating). Important if the coolant sits idle for long periods. I 3D printed my own pump after the aquarium pump I tried to use keep gumming up. Turns out, the pump's rotor, being a magnet, attracted micro fine metal particles that were suspended in the coolant. Pump would only run a couple of days before stopping. My new 3D printed pump has the motor above the tank and a long drive shaft down to the bottom of the tank where the rotor is. Here is a video of me showing it off:

    They tell me I can expect 12 to 18 months between coolant changes. So far I'm 10 months in all seems good. At well over $200 bucks for five gallons of coolant mix it pays to treat your coolant nice!

    Good Luck,
    Jim



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New DT-1 tooling advise

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