Reply with QuoteIn my experience, the best source for making lines is either a soft black lead pencil OR a drafting pen with inida ink. The light bulbs emit a lot of infrared energy, and the photocells have high response to infrared.
Regards,
JC
You get an answer to your questions?
In my experience, the best source for making lines is either a soft black lead pencil OR a drafting pen with inida ink. The light bulbs emit a lot of infrared energy, and the photocells have high response to infrared.
Regards,
JC
Hi ArlenmOriginally Posted by arlenw
The distance from the pattern to the lents should be no more then 38 mm (1.5in)
IF you have deskjet printer setup the line to be print 2mm thick and keep the kerf (reading offset) about 2 mm offset to the black side.about de corners you should make minimun 1/8 radios to let the lents fallow otherewides the lents stop.
note .don't cover the pattern with plastic or glass it does not work becouse the reflexion.
black sharpie line is good to , but the line should be about 2 mm or more
hope it help
Hello,
I have manuals for the tracer now, but still have not gotten it to work correctly. Lense is clean, all new bulbs, I am not doing as well trying to trace the test patterns that came with the manual as I was with a sharpie outline. Is also pretty much ignores any patterns printed out on any of our plotters. Its most common traits when I try to trace is to take a random direction when it crosses the first line it comes to, then it will stop over the next line it crosses and say "Lost Trace" on the controller display. It would be nice to figure out what I need to do to get it working. The rest of the machine is doing quite well.
Thanks Arlen
okay heres what you do, There are 3 screws with rubber plugs on the tracing head. Remove these, inside two of these holes there is a variable resistor, set each one to the half way point, they are a one turn resistor.Inside the third there is a test point. Next put the tracer over a line, now depending on the age you may need an oscilloscope to hook up to the test point, the newer versions allow you to use a voltmeter. If you have the newer version hook a digital voltmeter on dc volts to the test point, with respect to a signal ground inside the Lynx. If it is an older model hook a scope to the test point. This signal will need to be adjusted to either 9 volts dc or a pulse with an amplitude of 9-10 volts peak, using the resistor in the upper hole. To do this you need to turn the flood lamps on without going into trace mode, heres how you do that. Press the following keys 'AUX', 'TEST', 'I/O', 'OUTPUTS', '7' the lamps should now be on and you will need to physically place the tracing head over a line. Try using a photocopy of a straight line.
To tell if your tracing head is working at all, if you do not have a scope or a meter, place it over a line turn on the flood lights using the steps mentioned above then go to the 'INPUT' screen istead of 'OUTPUT' and observe the inputs labeled SCAP and SCAF, the sign in front of these sholud be changing from + to -.
Let me know if this helps
After reading some of your older posts, I noticed you have taken the head apart, thats a no-no for this type of head. If you get it working it will then need to be calibrated once it is able to trace. If the setup procedure I gave doesnt help there are still other tricks I know that may fix it, unless it is simpy defective. BTW it is not the same as an HL8 tracing head.
Linatrol God, I've got a question, we had to replace the motor in a HL-7 eye, actually we have it working quite well , but i know there is a dimensional relationship between the mirror, photo transistor and the lens, no one has been able to tell me what it is. The guys at linatrol seem to be too busy to look in the archives and get me the info, they would rather sell new equipment and understandably are busy suporting it. Is the mirror the same distance above the lens as the patern is below it? Any ides where I could get this info? thanks in advance for any ideas, Jon P.
When the motor is changed, you obviously need to remove the mirror/magnet assembly. This assembly which should is mounted on the motor shaft should be about 1/4 of an inch from the motor. The photocell should be flat on the lens and as close as possible to the center of the lens. Please note that the phocell is painted black on all sides except one. This unpainted side should be facing up towards the mirror and there should be no chips in the black paint.
I spent $800 trying to have my HL8 repaired. After reading here I replaced the bulbs and it works again. I have used Sharpies for along time. But might try going back to lead.
Thanks for the help
Re: Linatrol tracer set up on Koike Plasma
Hello,
It seems that the phototransistor on my HL-90 is defective.
Linatrol only sells complete head sensing units.
Does anyone know if it is possible to buy the phototransistor anywhere else?
Regards.
Enrique Silva.
Re: Linatrol tracer set up on Koike Plasma
When I worked there they sold the phototransistor as a separate item.
How do you know if it is defective?
They are painted with a flat black paint on all sides except one.
If the paint comes off it will not work.
Make certain the paint is intact and that the unpainted side is facing up and it is flat on the lens.
Re: Linatrol tracer set up on Koike Plasma
Thanks for your reply.
My unit doesn't detect a drawing pattern.
The green light only lits briefly if I quickly move the pattern under the lens.
I replaced the lamps with no success.
Paint looks complete:
Photo transistor output is as follow:
20mV/Div. Frequency is about 33Hz. But DC level is -4V.
So I think phototransistor id defective.
Currently Linatrol does not sell separate phototransistors.
I must buy a complete sense and light units (p/n 1904C30G04) if I want to get a phototransistor.
Please advise.
Enrique Silva.
Re: Linatrol tracer set up on Koike Plasma
the fact that the green light illuminates when a pattern is moved under the lens tells the phototransistor is working.
Is the mirror magnet assembly turning? It needs to be rotating for it to trace.
the AC motor on the scanner may not be working
Motor is working.
Enrique.
Re: Linatrol tracer set up on Koike Plasma
I would assume that you are referring to the motor inside the scanner assembly, not the drive motors.
Is there a mirror attached to the magnet assembly which is mounted on the shaft of the motor?
The scanner assembly/photcell, outputs out a pulse every time it sees the line.
If you reassemble everything and place it over a pattern you will be able to see this pulse at the test point on the circuit board.
i do not remember what test point and I do not have a schematic.
you will need to cover the open parts of the scanner assembly with a sheet of paper to keep out ambient light.
Re: Linatrol tracer set up on Koike Plasma
Yes, the motor inside the scanner is working and there is a mirror attached to it.
The output pulse is on J2-2 according to the manual (schematic is missing from it)
Attached picture shows J2-2 on a scope.
Pulse is about 50mv, 33.3Hz, DC level -4V.
Am I missing something?
Regards.
Enrique SIlva.
Re: Linatrol tracer set up on Koike Plasma
Hello,
Anybody have HL-93 I/O pinout, i can't find it. I only find the setup manual.
Thanks
Raul.
Re: Linatrol tracer set up on Koike Plasma
Hello the Great Linatrol Knowledgeable God Please enlighten me how I go about upgrading a Koike Sonso Ik 600C too modern day computer circuitry on a very limited budget. Thanks for your great knowledge
Help need a manual for HL90 having problems catching the pattern will only read if I curve the patteren
Have you found anything on this conversion
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