G540 E-Stop - Page 5


Page 5 of 13 FirstFirst ... 2345678 ... LastLast
Results 81 to 100 of 252

Thread: G540 E-Stop

  1. #81
    Community Moderator Al_The_Man's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Canada
    Posts
    24216
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default

    Those types are typically ordered according to OEM design, not saying this one is, but a quick check with a meter for continuity between sections for each position should verify what the switching set up is.

    AC1 - Non-inductive or slightly inductive loads
    AC2 - Starting of slip-ring motors
    AC3 - Starting of squirrel-cage motors and switching off only after the motor is up to speed. (Make Locked Rotor Amps (LRA), Break Full Load Amps (FLA))
    AC4 - Starting of squirrel-cage motors with inching and plugging duty. Rapid Start/Stop. (Make and Break LRA)
    AC11 - Auxiliary (control) circuits
    Al.

    CNC, Mechatronics Integration and Custom Machine Design

    “Logic will get you from A to B. Imagination will take you everywhere.”
    Albert E.


  2. #82
    Member kolias's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Canada
    Posts
    1326
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default

    Just received today my new multimeter from eBay (see pic)

    There is a button under the display and to left which is labeled DH and also has a red LED under it. When I press it, DH appears in the display.

    The brief manual does not say anything about this button. Anyone knows what this button does?

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails G540 E-Stop-new-digital-multimeter-jpg  
    Nicolas


  3. #83
    Member john-100's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    uk
    Posts
    2083
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default

    Hi Nicolas,

    I think you will find DH is Display Hold

    so the meter can remember the last measurement instead of you

    if you press it while your measuring some thing the display will freeze
    so the display is not updated until the next time you press the button


    John



  4. #84
    Member kolias's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Canada
    Posts
    1326
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default

    Thank you John, good to know about it

    Nicolas


  5. #85
    Member kolias's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Canada
    Posts
    1326
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default

    Hi Al

    Don't know what happens because I see your reply in my email but I dont see that post here.

    Anyway yes I got a manual which I use a magnifying glass to read it but there is nothing in there about this button.

    John explained the function of this button and I think thats enough

    Nicolas


  6. #86
    Member kolias's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Canada
    Posts
    1326
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default

    I will be starting work on the control box soon. This box will house the 3 power supply units, 2 cooling fans and the G540. I know that the G540 has some light indicators but I think after the initial set up these lights will not be needed and therefore I have located the G540 where lights will not be visible during normal operation.

    I’m attaching here a schematic of the machine plus the plan view of the control box for comments.

    Inside the control box I will have a ground bar made out from a 1/4" aluminum square tube with 1/8” thick walls. I plan to connect all DC ground wiring on this bar plus the ground shield from the motor cables. Is this acceptable?

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails G540 E-Stop-capture-jpg   G540 E-Stop-capture2-jpg  
    Nicolas


  7. #87
    Member kolias's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Canada
    Posts
    1326
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default

    Never got a reply to my post #86

    Everybody is on vacation?

    Nicolas


  8. #88
    Member john-100's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    uk
    Posts
    2083
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default

    Hi Nicolas ,

    I must of missed your previous post

    I'm not sure about using the aluminum tube it may crush and not be easy to get a firm connection

    I remember years ago reading about the problems using aluminum mains cables cable
    not only did it move and pull out of the back of sockets
    but they had to use adapters made from copper and aluminum that had been welded together

    this avoided the problems associated with dissimilar metals being in contact

    John



  9. #89
    Community Moderator Al_The_Man's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Canada
    Posts
    24216
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default

    I prefer a Copper bar, I usually drill and tap for #10-32. for ring lugs.
    Or you can get DIN rail mount terminals, ebay #: 310323134035
    Phoenix Contact or Weidmuller.
    Al.

    CNC, Mechatronics Integration and Custom Machine Design

    “Logic will get you from A to B. Imagination will take you everywhere.”
    Albert E.


  10. #90
    Member kolias's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Canada
    Posts
    1326
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default

    I will first see what my local electronics store has for ground bars

    Nicolas


  11. #91
    Member kolias's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Canada
    Posts
    1326
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default

    Starting doing the wiring and on the attached schematic where the 2 marked connections are going?

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails G540 E-Stop-capture2-jpg  
    Nicolas


  12. #92
    Member kolias's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Canada
    Posts
    1326
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default

    Hello John,

    Started doing the control box wiring and have these questions on your G540 schematic, v4, (1 of 2) post #51

    On the top right corner where the Relay 3 is, where the connection (COM & N/O) are going?

    Just to the left of Relay 3 you have an ON/OFF switch. Is this an actual switch that I have to install and why?

    On Relay 2 there are the connections 4 & 7 which are going to load but on Relay 1 you have connections 4, 6, 9, & 7. Why you have 4 connections on this relay?

    Nicolas


  13. #93
    Member john-100's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    uk
    Posts
    2083
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default

    Hi Nicolas ,

    when using the KU6269 two pole plug in relays you have a choice,
    depending on the load ,of using one pole (terminals 4 & 7 or 6 & 9)
    or connecting both poles in parallel ( terminals 4 + 6 & 7 + 9 )

    the third relay is just one way to use a low current switch to switch a high current if the two relays controlled by the G540 outputs is not enough
    and you need to be able to switch a third load on and off

    I've added a star point as a common ground

    what E stop switch have you decided to use in the end ?

    John

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails G540 E-Stop-g540-wiring-diagram-jpg  


  14. #94
    Member kolias's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Canada
    Posts
    1326
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default

    Hello John and thanks so much for your reply and schematic.

    Well now the fun starts because tomorrow I’m starting the electrical. The controls enclosure is made and painted (3/8” plywood) and I still have to finish the push buttons enclosure. Before I start any actual wiring I will post my “schematic” which will be my understanding on how to run / connect all the wires.

    The E-Stop I will use is the one recommended by Al (see attached pic). Its Telemecanique, ZB2-BE102C, with one NC contact, AC15, 240V - 3A, lth:10A, UI: 600V, Uimp: 6kV

    I would like to clarify the relays I have so I don’t mix up the types.

    I have 3 relays which are Tyco Electronics T9AP1D52-24, Potter & Brumfield, NO 30A, 240VAC, with a COM, NO and the 2 connections for the power.

    Then I have 2 relays which are Potter & Brumfield, 109P90404 REV: D, KU 6269, 24VDC, 3A, 1/2HP, 600VAC, 1/3HP 120VAC, 10A 240VAC. There are 8 pins per relay

    And I also have the Mouser relay you suggested to purchase which is Magnecraft, W9AS1A52-120, Coil 120VAC, 30A 240VAC, 30A 28VDC, TV5 240VAC. This also has a COM, NO and the 2 connections for the power.

    From your todays schematic I think you are using the KU 6269 for relays 1, 2 & 3 but I only have 2 of these relays. Can I use the KU 6269 for relays 1 & 2 and the T9AP1D52 for relay 3 like your schematic v4 (1 of 2) shown in post 51 ?

    All the above is to clarify what we have been discussing in the last couple of months and I will appreciate it if you can answer to my above questions for my own education and future use

    For your information John, I could not use the Hitachi VFD for various reasons and therefore I don’t need a cooling pump for it. What I got for a spindle is a Taig spindle along with a Sherline VS motor (I should receive the motor this week). If you like to see my new machine, I started a post of my build here

    http://www.cnczone.com/forums/open_s...luminum-2.html

    I haven’t decided yet on how to control the Sherline motor but for now I plan to have an on/off switch in my control panel and later this may change. Also for cooling liquid of the bit I will have a momentary switch in the panel to control the pump

    After I get your answers, I will post my wiring “schematic” for comments.

    Sorry for the lengthy email John and thanks so much for your help

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails G540 E-Stop-estop1-jpg  
    Nicolas


  15. #95
    Member john-100's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    uk
    Posts
    2083
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default

    Hi Nicolas ,

    I've done another version of the circuit using the Tyco T9AP1D52-24 and the Magnecraft W9AS1A52-120 relays
    they are two versions of the same relay, but using different coil voltages

    with a 120V AC mains supply they can switch 6A to power a 1HP (746 W )motor or 30A to a non inductive load ( eg heater )

    to switch a 1HP motor on and off , the Tyco relays will be easier to use with just 4 connections instead of the 6 with a KU6269 wired with both poles in parallel

    ( for the E-STOP relay , just make sure the mains supply is connected to the Magnecraft W9AS1A52-120 coil and not a TYCO 24V relay by mistake !! )

    when you hit the E-Stop ,the Magnecraft relay will open and E-stop the G540 faster than just waiting for the G540's power supply to discharge

    If the E-Stop switch and the on/off switch can switch a high enough current ,
    the common terminals on relay1 and relay 2 could be connected after the E stop and on/off switches instead of the mains supply to the switches)

    what wattage is the spindle motor and how many other loads do you need to control -
    a vaccum to clear saw dust , cutting fluid for metal ?

    John

    PS for a 500W spindl motor a manual on /off switch needs to be able to switch 4A when connected to inductive loads
    or switch the 24V DC to a Tyco T9AP1D52-24 relay coil that has a Diode connected across the coil like relay 3 in the first diagram in post 51 -

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails G540 E-Stop-g540-wiring-diagram-9as1a52-relays-jpg  
    Last edited by john-100; 08-13-2012 at 04:42 PM. Reason: add PS


  16. #96
    Member kolias's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Canada
    Posts
    1326
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default

    Hello John

    For some reason the last 2 schematics you posted yesterday and today are difficult to read / print. On todays new schematic the 3 items you have on the right hand side are not legible even when I magnify them. If its possible to do something is fine otherwise I will manage and ask questions when not sure.

    Todays schematic looks good but I have these question (please excuse me if the questions are silly but I just don’t know). Lets talk about relays 1 & 2; the way I understand it the output of these relays after they are energized by the G540 outputs 1 & 2 will carry 120VAC since the COM leg is connected to the LINE of the 120VAC main. So whatever equipment I connect I have to take a wire after the equipment to the neutral (N) on the AC mains to close the loop. Is this correct?

    So if I want to control something that is lets say 36VDC or any other voltage I just connect the COM leg of the relay to the PLUS (+) of my DC voltage and the other leg (NO) to the DC ground. Is this correct?

    And finally, on the E-Stop relay what is the “NC disable switch if fitted”? Do I need this switch?

    I’m attaching some info on the Sherline motor. Please note that I only purchased the motor with the VS unit and the 2 pulleys. I also plan not to have the VS unit mounted on the motor as the picture shows but rather on my push button station and I attach a wiring schematic which Sherline sent me on how to do that.

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails G540 E-Stop-sherline-motor-assembly-jpg   G540 E-Stop-sherline-motor-specs-jpg   G540 E-Stop-sherline-motor-wiring-jpg  
    Nicolas


  17. #97
    Member john-100's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    uk
    Posts
    2083
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default

    Hi Nicolas

    I think the problem with the last 2 pictures is a combination of the original small pictures pasted to the right hand side and the overall picture size of the circuit diagram has increased

    it looks likes some detail is lost when the picture is up loaded - I guess its being compressed
    I'll have a look at making a PDF version or splitting it into 2 or 3 parts

    Yes , any thing connected to the switched live from a relay will also need its earth & neutral connecting to the mains input terminals - I left them off , trying not to obscure the relay connectons

    to energise the 24V relays
    the + 24V dc supply is connected to the coil terminal "A " and the -24V dc supply is connected via a switch to the coil terminal "B"

    the switch can be a manually operated single pole switch or the PC controlled electronic "switch" in the G540

    under PC control , one or both of the 2N7000 series FET transistors connect the output terminals 5 & 6 to the ground terminal 12

    with the control 24V voltage now connected to terminals A & B the relay closes , connecting the COM terminal and N/O terminals together

    the COM & N/O are the on/off switch for the external device

    connecting the mains live to the relay COM and the motor between the relay N/O and neutral , will give the PC control of the motor

    the 1/2 HP motor is no problem , the relays can switch the 3A motor current OK

    the diagram of the speed control looks like a KB Electronics KBIC board
    I think I've have the PDF manual for it , showing more details of how to set it up

    the disabe switch is just an option if you wanted to be able to send a E-stop to the PC & G540 without using the E-stop switch to kill the mains supply to the 36V and 24V power supplies


    John

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails G540 E-Stop-105a_w9a-relay-data-pdf   G540 E-Stop-kbic_manual-pdf  
    Last edited by john-100; 08-13-2012 at 07:16 PM. Reason: add speed control & relay info


  18. #98
    Member kolias's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Canada
    Posts
    1326
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default

    Thank you John for the education on the relays and the 2 files you sent me; much appreciated.

    I will see if I have a 4A switch to use on the Sherline motor. BTW I was told that the cable from the motor to the VS unit will create a lot of noise and to keep it away from control wiring. I wonder if you know of any way to contain the noise like would it help if I wrap this cable with aluminum foil?

    I finish today the push buttons enclosure and now I’m ready to start tomorrow the wiring.

    Into another subject; I have 4 switches as per attached pics, rated at 220VAC, 5A but the illuminated push buttons are 24VDC and in another forum I was told to use a combination of diodes / resistors to light up the button when the switch is pushed ON.

    It is too complicated that way and I was thinking if there is a simpler way with the relays I have to get the 24VDC lights ON when I push the buttons. 3 of these push buttons will be used to turn ON 120VAC items and one will be used for 12VDC

    If there is a simple way to do it please let me know otherwise I will use these switches without the lights.

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails G540 E-Stop-pushbutton1-jpg   G540 E-Stop-pushbutton2-jpg  
    Nicolas


  19. #99
    Community Moderator Al_The_Man's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Canada
    Posts
    24216
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by kolias View Post
    BTW I was told that the cable from the motor to the VS unit will create a lot of noise and to keep it away from control wiring. I wonder if you know of any way to contain the noise like would it help if I wrap this cable with aluminum foil?
    You can eliminate alot of EM radiation if you just twist the motor conductors together tightly.
    Self cancelling effect.
    BTW, that P.B. appears to be a push-on push-release (maintained), if so why not use a spare N.O. contact for the lamp?
    If you are not using both.
    Al.

    CNC, Mechatronics Integration and Custom Machine Design

    “Logic will get you from A to B. Imagination will take you everywhere.”
    Albert E.


  20. #100
    Member kolias's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Canada
    Posts
    1326
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default

    I was planning to buy 10 to 15 feet 2 conductor cable (+ the ground) which comes in a plastic or rubber jacket. How can I twist the conductors together?

    The push button is as you say Al and it has a total of 8 connectors + 2 for the light. How can I use a spare NO contact for the lamp? I mean the lamp is rated for 24VDC and the push button is for 240VAC

    Nicolas


Page 5 of 13 FirstFirst ... 2345678 ... LastLast

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  


About CNCzone.com

    We are the largest and most active discussion forum for manufacturing industry. The site is 100% free to join and use, so join today!

Follow us on


Our Brands

G540 E-Stop

G540 E-Stop