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Thread: G540 E-Stop

  1. #241
    Member kolias's Avatar
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    I know about the procedure in the manual but thought the VS unit must be set right and therefore dont need to go thru the procedure

    But I will do it now to see the results

    Nicolas


  2. #242
    Community Moderator Al_The_Man's Avatar
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    No1 rule, Never Assume Anything! .
    If changing any pots, record the original setting.
    Al.

    CNC, Mechatronics Integration and Custom Machine Design

    “Logic will get you from A to B. Imagination will take you everywhere.”
    Albert E.


  3. #243
    Member john-100's Avatar
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    Hi Nicolas,

    assuming you have used the Soigeneris wiring diagram

    after you connected the G540 VFD to the KBIC speed control
    I'd expect the current taken by the VFD circuit to result in a lower maximum speed and a faster minimum speed

    ( the G540 VFD circuit is in parallel with the speed control speed control potentiometer
    the extra current flowing from P3 to P1 will result in an increased volt drop across the MIN and MAX speed presets)

    you will need to adjust the MAX and MIN speed presets on the KBIC board to compensate

    the G540 VFD circuit acts like a PC controlled potentiometer wired in parallel with the original manual control
    the switch selects which control voltage is connected to P2 terminal on the KBIC board

    John

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails G540 E-Stop-auto_manual-speed-control-switch-jpg  


  4. #244
    Member kolias's Avatar
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    Thank you Al for the tip

    John thank you for the schematic but I have not used the Soigeneris Auto / Manual switch. For now the original ON/OFF switch is sufficient for me but as Al mentioned I will have to follow the instructions and adjust the pots

    Nicolas


  5. #245
    Member kolias's Avatar
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    Hey Al

    Soon I will replace the temporary pushbuttons panel with a new one I will cut out from Aluminum and this means I will have to remove all wiring from inside and re do it again.

    Presently I used for all AC lines two square metal junction boxes with covers (like we have inside the walls of a house) and tight the wires with wire nuts. I don’t like this method and I wonder what the Pros are using to connect 120VAC wires together.

    I hope that HomeDepot may have what you may suggest but if not pls give me some details so I know what I’m looking for

    Nicolas


  6. #246
    Community Moderator Al_The_Man's Avatar
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    Well for a start I never use wirenuts.
    Normally what I use is DIN rail mount terminals, these have allowance for bridging links to be placed across the top for muli-terminal connection for a supply or common, these also come in yellow/green for automatic grounding connection.
    The manufacturers are Allen-Bradley, Weidmuller, Phoenix-Contact, for a few. You need to rate them for the current that you are going to use them for.
    Search any of the above, usually cheaper on eBay. 280970539842
    The nice thing about DIN rail, is most items are DIN rail mount now, P.S.'s, relays contactors, transformers, fuses etc.
    How many terminals do you need?
    Al.

    CNC, Mechatronics Integration and Custom Machine Design

    “Logic will get you from A to B. Imagination will take you everywhere.”
    Albert E.


  7. #247
    Member kolias's Avatar
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    I will assume that by how many terminals I need you mean how many wires I have.

    In one junction box I have one group of 6 blacks and 6 whites + another group of 3 blacks and 3 whites

    In the other junction box I have 3 blacks and 3 whites

    Nicolas


  8. #248
    Community Moderator Al_The_Man's Avatar
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    Also if you are fusing many of the systems that these conductors are feeding, the supply can be looped across to the different fuse banks, which reduces the amount of live conductors you may need to create a bus for, which usually leaves the neutrals and/or P.S. commons to junction together.
    Al.

    CNC, Mechatronics Integration and Custom Machine Design

    “Logic will get you from A to B. Imagination will take you everywhere.”
    Albert E.


  9. #249
    Member kolias's Avatar
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    Hi All

    I found these rail mount terminals at my local store ($2.00 for the large one and $1.00 for the small one).

    The large one has on one side on every other terminal 12mm sq or LMTS and on the opposite side 450V or +. When I flip it over it has 15A marked on each terminal

    The small one has on one side on every other terminal 6mm sq or LMTS and on the opposite side 450V or +. When I flip it over it has 05A marked on each terminal.

    Are these DIN rail mount terminals?
    What LMTS means?
    Why every other terminal is marked with + ?

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails G540 E-Stop-dsc03935-jpg  
    Nicolas


  10. #250
    Community Moderator Al_The_Man's Avatar
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    They are not DIN style.
    Wire Connection: DIN Rail Mount Connectors/Terminal Blocks

    The only thing with those you show they screw mount and not easy to Gang-up or common up terminals.
    Al.

    CNC, Mechatronics Integration and Custom Machine Design

    “Logic will get you from A to B. Imagination will take you everywhere.”
    Albert E.


  11. #251
    Member kolias's Avatar
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    Another $3.00 down the drain lol

    Thanks Al

    Nicolas


  12. #252
    Member kolias's Avatar
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    After all the work we did on the wiring, here is the final control panel in aluminum. The cutouts turned out perfect but the engraving not so.

    I did a lot of trial cuts on MDF to assure that all is aligned perfect but on the final run on aluminum I didn't change the feed rate for the engraving and so the fonts are not what I would have liked but they are ok for now.

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails G540 E-Stop-24j-control-panel-installed-jpg  
    Nicolas


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