CNC Quilting forum

[lmlamb]

Thanks, Larry. The short note you sent from work was enough to get me here. LOL You are a patient man! Even if I hadn't reviewed the gcode commands, this would have made it clear. I will try using this again. Only thing that isn't clear to me is subfile O0001. Is that supposed to be in one of my folders or is it something that is somehow generated by the program? Thank you very much for your assistance. Ed

Oh! Eureka! I've got it! Thanks again. I'll have this going tomorrow. Ed

Hi Ed,

The subfile is a pattern that has to be inserted into the basic repeat header program. The name of the pattern can be just about anything that you want it to be as long as the M98 line with the Pxxxx matches the Oxxxx. Later on I'll show you a way to call a subfile externally. But right now it's a bit too early for that. Let's get you used to the operation of the repeat function and the basic file functions before we venture out into the stratosphere.

Regarding the patterns: I buy my patterns from a place called Munnich Designs on the web. Most of them are about 5 or 6 bucks. This lady is very easy to work with. I would recommend that you start with a pattern that is small enough to work with, but that you can repeat several times to see how the operation works. Just download the pattern that you want, then us corelDraw to convert it to a dxf file. Then when you have that done run it through LazyCam to convert it to gCode. You will notice that in LazyCam, there will be lines called "jumps". These are lines that LazyCam inserts to facilitate the operation of a mill, that allows the cutter to jump to a new place to start cutting again. In quilting, these have no useful purpose, as we need to have continous line sewing. You can eliminate them by using the controls on the right side of the LazyCam screen, such as "clean", etc. You will need to play with the commands to learn them. You need to know that LazyCam is in permanent Beta status, and will not become a finished program. However, for what we do, it works very well.

Good luck, and have fun,

[ec_buss]

Hi Ed,

The subfile is a pattern that has to be inserted into the basic repeat header program. The name of the pattern can be just about anything that you want it to be as long as the M98 line with the Pxxxx matches the Oxxxx. Later on I'll show you a way to call a subfile externally. But right now it's a bit too early for that. Let's get you used to the operation of the repeat function and the basic file functions before we venture out into the stratosphere.

Regarding the patterns: I buy my patterns from a place called Munnich Designs on the web. Most of them are about 5 or 6 bucks. This lady is very easy to work with. I would recommend that you start with a pattern that is small enough to work with, but that you can repeat several times to see how the operation works. Just download the pattern that you want, then us corelDraw to convert it to a dxf file. Then when you have that done run it through LazyCam to convert it to gCode. You will notice that in LazyCam, there will be lines called "jumps". These are lines that LazyCam inserts to facilitate the operation of a mill, that allows the cutter to jump to a new place to start cutting again. In quilting, these have no useful purpose, as we need to have continous line sewing. You can eliminate them by using the controls on the right side of the LazyCam screen, such as "clean", etc. You will need to play with the commands to learn them. You need to know that LazyCam is in permanent Beta status, and will not become a finished program. However, for what we do, it works very well.

Good luck, and have fun,

Thanks Larry. I will get some patterns from Munnich. I've asked my wife to chose some and get them ordered, but she's overwhelmed by the choices! In the mean time, I'm having fun playing with the code. All is working perfectly with the stuff you provided, including number of repeats. I've already leaped into the stratosphere, working on a couple of macros to replace the lead in and out portions of the patterns. When (if) I get them working, I'll send them to you along with revised screens to support them for review. I'm very pleased that with your help, I've gotten this far. The machine is now useful, and whatever I do now is just for tweaking. Thanks for working with me. I'm not at all afraid of looking ignorant (obviously), and eagerly ask when I am stumped.

BTW, r u military? ret USAF here.

Thanks, Ed

[lmlamb]

Hi Ed,

I've been pretty busy on the old cad program! I have designed the linear rail and carriage assembly for the takeup roller, and here it is attached. I've sent a copy of it to Dick, so he can take a look at it also.

Pretty easy to make setup, I think.

[lmlamb]

Hey Switcher,

Got a problem for you. Is it possible to make a linear rail system that moves on a 14 inch track and is controlled by magnetic sensors to stop/hesitate, and then move again in the same direction? And in addition, when the linear rail axis moves in the opposite direction, reverse it's direction? In other words, when moving away, try to catch up by two inch increments, and when reversing direction try to get away by two inch increments? If you look at my post to Ed below, there is a drawing of the setup.

Wha'cha think?

[lmlamb]

Thanks Larry. I will get some patterns from Munnich. I've asked my wife to chose some and get them ordered, but she's overwhelmed by the choices! In the mean time, I'm having fun playing with the code. All is working perfectly with the stuff you provided, including number of repeats. I've already leaped into the stratosphere, working on a couple of macros to replace the lead in and out portions of the patterns. When (if) I get them working, I'll send them to you along with revised screens to support them for review. I'm very pleased that with your help, I've gotten this far. The machine is now useful, and whatever I do now is just for tweaking. Thanks for working with me. I'm not at all afraid of looking ignorant (obviously), and eagerly ask when I am stumped.

BTW, r u military? ret USAF here.

Thanks, Ed

Hey Ed, I don't think I answered your final question, yes, I am retired Army. Basically the same family, eh?

[ec_buss]

Hey Larry (or anyone else with an answer) How are you handling rethreading? I tried a few little macros to remember last position (when reset is pressed), then move to tool change position, then return to last position--but when I restart, I have some problems. Apparently Mach3 reads ahead, and when I restart, it sews it's way directly to the end of the read ahead and continues from there. I tried selecting a line number and continuing from that point--but that goes back to the first sewn pattern vs. whatever number of repeats its into. I tried going to last point remembered and moving in reverse from there, but that went directly to the beginning of the pattern. I tried going to specific coordinates from the line number and continuing from there, but it gave me the same problem as simply going to last know position. Still working on this issue, but thought you may have already been through it.

[ec_buss]

Hi Ed,

I've been pretty busy on the old cad program! I have designed the linear rail and carriage assembly for the takeup roller, and here it is attached. I've sent a copy of it to Dick, so he can take a look at it also.

Pretty easy to make setup, I think.

Looks like a nice clean setup Larry. But I don't quite understand how the pulley works. It has to keep tensioning the take-up roller as it is moved in and out, so why does the wire run in both directions from the pulley? If fixed to the pulley and wound many times around, then the end brought through one of the holes and a weight (or spring) attached, that could work.

[ec_buss]

Ed,

Sorry about the .set file. Here is a new one and also the macro files and bitmaps that you need to make it work. Just expand the macro zip file into your macro folder, the cncquilter.zip file needs to be extracted to your macro folder as well.

let me know if all works ok.

Larry, I made most of this work, but would love to have your bitmaps. They were overlooked in the above post attachments. Thanks Ed

[lmlamb]

Looks like a nice clean setup Larry. But I don't quite understand how the pulley works. It has to keep tensioning the take-up roller as it is moved in and out, so why does the wire run in both directions from the pulley? If fixed to the pulley and wound many times around, then the end brought through one of the holes and a weight (or spring) attached, that could work.

Hi Ed,

The pulley works on the principal that as the pulley moves, it pulls itself along the cable as the pulley plate moves with the motion of the motor. The motor will move in the same direction as the pulley plate and roller. The movement of the roller and plate causes the pulley to turn due to the tightness of the cable wrapped around the roller pulley. It's really a simple theory when you think about it.

I've modified the design a little bit and introduced a mount for the motor below the center point of the tracks and placed a small pulley on the motor, and using the same idea as for the y-axis on the carriage, I wrapped stainless fishing wire on the motor (see the attached picture) instead of using a screw mount. This deminishes the cost considerable. I found some bearing equipped plastic wheels in my parts bin, used them to carry the wire at the corners to the roller carriage plate. It really works smooth with very little friction. Now the trick is to work out the mount for the takeup roller mount for the plate. That will need to be the same on each end. I am debating whether to use another stepper on the opposite end to keep the roller aligned, however, I think with the wire wrapped at the opposite end, it should keep it aligned squarely and allow it to turn smoothly.

Your idea with the weight or spring load has merit. I had thought about using a spring motor to keep back tension on the roller, but the cost was unreasonable.

When you look at the picture below, remember that I am going to use the idea with the cable as in the drawing, to rotate the roller as it moves. I think that is the best way to turn the roller at the same rate as the motor turns.


Tell me what you think.

[trickey]

I you'v making progress I found that with Brenda's machine It realy does not matter if the rear roller has "some" out of parallel movement as long as the quilt is loaded in the middle of the frame in fact it has some merit as much as it provides tension equally because as long as you have equal tension at each end it will keep the quilt taut all over so a bit of float is good.
Dick

[trickey]

Sorry I did not finish the idea is to keep the quilt in tension not the rollers in parallel, within reason I should imagine that when you set your pattern that the machine will follow where you have position it in the program

Dick

[lmlamb]

I you'v making progress I found that with Brenda's machine It realy does not matter if the rear roller has "some" out of parallel movement as long as the quilt is loaded in the middle of the frame in fact it has some merit as much as it provides tension equally because as long as you have equal tension at each end it will keep the quilt taut all over so a bit of float is good.
Dick

Hi Dick,

I was thinking the same thing. The simple fact that the roller will try to align itself as the quilt is rolled and unrolled. I think just for safety sake I'll go ahead and use the stationary cable wrapped on the end of the unpowered end to provide a bit of equal force to hold it true. I just got finished adding the center pivot and roller attachment to the traverse plate, now I need to get a length of alu tube or pipe to take the place of the takeup roller so I don't cause Grady some grief by cutting the wrong thing. I think I may have found the correct programming commands to make the stepper activate correctly. When I get it tested and proven I'll put on the forum so you can see it.

[lmlamb]

Sorry I did not finish the idea is to keep the quilt in tension not the rollers in parallel, within reason I should imagine that when you set your pattern that the machine will follow where you have position it in the program

Dick

Yup, my thoughts exactly.

[trickey]

I have used aluminium tube but found it to be a bit weak and tended to sag a little but if I used what we call screwed conduit it is a steel tube but thine walled but very strong I could get away with a much smaller diameter a little heaver but the price was cheaper and it took up less room in the harp.
I have made all the mechanical pieces for Brenda's frame and have fitted the motors , never seem to have the spare time
Have fun
Dick

[lmlamb]

Hey Ed, Dick,

Here is a couple more photos of the roller mechanism that I designed. The double V rollers on the plate are locked together to provide an attaching point for the end of the roller. I will probably use some type of hose element with metal strap and screw clamps to fit over the end of the top V roller and the end of the takeup roller to provide movement transmission to the TU roller. I haven't attached the motor to the controller board yet, simply because I have been trying to work out the programming for the control of the TU Roller. I can say this though, the movement of the plate and rollers are synchronized to provide 1.75 inches of movement with one full rotation of the motor. I figure that should be just about the right amount of travel of the plate as the Y axis moves in and out. Plus it keeps tension on the TU Roller to provide tension to the quilt.

[trickey]

Looks like a goer there. one of my old mentors would have been proud of you
he believed in the KISS principle and would often say "keep it simple stupid"
it was not his saying but my god he used to use it a lot on me.

your on the home stretch now.

Dick

[XYZADave]

Just while you are there http://www.cnczone.com/forums/diy-cn...ock_solid.html
For those who have to use those really floppy, c*appy, U channel bearings

[trickey]

Hi Guys
Just thinking would it be possible to operate the needle up which cuts the bobbin thread from a cnc program?
Would make life easier.

[lmlamb]

Hi Guys
Just thinking would it be possible to operate the needle up which cuts the bobbin thread from a cnc program?
Would make life easier.

Hi Dick,

I guess I would need some more info on the operation of the thread cutter. Is it an external lever? a push-button, or some other type of hand operated device?

Which model sewing machine do you have, I'll look it up and see what the system description is.

[trickey]

Brenda's machine is a brother 1500s it does have a push button on the side
which when pushed automatically raises the needle and cuts the bobbin cotton
I was thinking of fitting a relay but do not know what the voltage of the machine is I could find out but was fearful of a voltage difference

I will be starting to wire up the frame today

Thanks Dick