How to dress a CBN cup wheel.

[neilw20]

I tried to dress my CBN cup wheel with a diamond dresser and all I achieved was a nice shiny facet on the diamond. Cool, but not much use!
How do I true the wheel to the arbor it is mounted on, and I lost the really sharp edge.

Thanks
Neil

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[RICHARD ZASTROW]

Is this a bonded wheel? A plated wheel?

Dick Z

[neilw20]

Cubic Born Nitride coated Aluminum similar to this but a much thinner bottom edge. About 3mm flat annulus.
Thanks Dick.

[Karl_T]

As far as i know, they are "maintenance free". When its wore, you get another one. These are made accurately, no need to true them when mounted. I shop eBay and got a bunch so I have more freedom to change out than most. Still, one stone lasts a LONG time.

[thtalim]

CBN FLAT WHEEL DRESSER
Use this device. If needed, create your own holder for this.
I used this device for truing diamond wheel on UNIVERSAL CUTTER GRINDER

[neilw20]

This is not maintenance. I must true it to the abor it is mounted on so that I can grind with micron resolution, re pointing solid carbide end mills, 25 at a time. Only takes 2 minutes, but if the wheel was truer it would be much quicker, and the points more precise.

[neilw20]

CBN FLAT WHEEL DRESSER
Use this device. If needed, create your own holder for this.
I used this device for truing diamond wheel on UNIVERSAL CUTTER GRINDER

Oh. I see. Grind the CBN wheel, with what sort of wheel.
I can soon mount up a wheel to do the job. I have a nice motorized arbor in the form of a tool post grinder.

[thtalim]

I must true it to the abor it is mounted on so that I can grind with micron resolution, re pointing solid carbide end mills, 25 at a time. Only takes 2 minutes, but if the wheel was truer it would be much quicker, and the points more precise.

Its true, if you want micron precision, you must truing on its working spindle & flange. So you must make holder for CBN FLAT WHEEL DRESSER to do truing the wheel.
For me, if I take out the wheel from the flange or take the flange out of spindle , when I put it on, I must truing it.
Usually I dress totally about 0.1 mm

[mactec54]

neilw20
Dressing Sticks three different dressing sticks in a number of grits for you to choose. Aluminum oxide (white) Silicon Carbide (black) or Silicon Carbide (green). all of these are used for CBN wheels

Plus the rotory method
http://www.meister-abrasives-usa.com.../dressing_cups

[neilw20]

Thanks mactec54 and thtalim (and other, too) for your replies. I just had to wait for the sun to shine in the right places.

I will look through my abrasives box and probably find something suitable, know I have a better idea of the method(s) used.

Neil.

[thtalim]

to mactec54:
Usually I use CBN FLAT WHEEL DRESSER to make sure the wheel is zero when check with dial indicator.
After use, if the wheel is not sharp, I use stick, as long as the wheel still on the machine & the shape not change. (For me the wheel edge is important)
See your attached file page 3:
"The WINTER dressing device allows accurate dressing of diamond and CBN grinding wheels. During the dressing process the grinding wheel remains on the spindle which guarantees best concentricities."
also:
"If the grinding wheel acts too dull after dressing it needs to be sharpened with a wet WINTER stone No.1AW, No.2 or No.5."

[mactec54]

thtalim
If you make a holder for the machine,so you can the mount the dressing stick,they work just as well as the rotory fixtures, were you put the tool to be sharpened this is were you mount the dressing stick & just move it across the face, or in some of the the small cutter grinders you can also mount the dressing stick were the diamond mounts the thing is to mount the dressing stick don't try & hold it by hand or you will mess your wheel up.

[RICHARD ZASTROW]

Neil, the reason I asked whether bonded or plated wheel is this: bonded can be dressed and "trued" while a plated wheel has only a single layer of abrasive bonded to the metal wheel form.

The plated wheels are cleaned but not dressed. When the abrasive is worn down, the plated wheels can be stripped and re-plated if they are not damaged.

Plated metal wheels are normally less expensive than bonded wheels, less of the expensive abrasive is used. Since they aren't dressed, the plated wheels must be mounted accurately.

One of the advantages of plated metal wheels is the ability to machine the wheel to a negative of the form you want to produce, then plate the wheel with the abrasive type and grit you want. We used them to produce the root of turbine blades.

Dick Z

[neilw20]

My two wheels are solid. Not plated. Thanks.
I will find a suitable dressing stone, and machine mount it.
No drama moving in micron steps with my SX3, believe it or not.
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showth...249#post696249
I can actually move Z down 0-10 microns with a CNC controlled weight as that actually utilizes the bendable column. No head 'bob' to worry about.

Thanks
Neil.

[crabbass]

Neil, the reason I asked whether bonded or plated wheel is this: bonded can be dressed and "trued" while a plated wheel has only a single layer of abrasive bonded to the metal wheel form.

The plated wheels are cleaned but not dressed. When the abrasive is worn down, the plated wheels can be stripped and re-plated if they are not damaged.

Plated metal wheels are normally less expensive than bonded wheels, less of the expensive abrasive is used. Since they aren't dressed, the plated wheels must be mounted accurately.

One of the advantages of plated metal wheels is the ability to machine the wheel to a negative of the form you want to produce, then plate the wheel with the abrasive type and grit you want. We used them to produce the root of turbine blades.

Dick Z

That is cool, I thought most manufactures used solid wheels. Are you creep feed grinding with your plated wheels? Or are you just finish grinding an already roughed in shape (christmas tree)?Do you have any GE or ABB turbine blade profile drawings? Perhaps Drawings of the wheel(s). I need to build some fixtures for holding these blades, as simulated in the wheel.

[RICHARD ZASTROW]

crabbass, We rough machined the root (dovetail shape) in the same operation as the milling of the tapered, twisted airfoil AKA "banana blade". The grinding fixture located from 3-2-1 points of the airfoil to accurately locate from its finished geometry.

The grinding process was (and still is) known as high energy deep grinding (HEDG) not quite the same as creepfeed grinding. The trick is high pressure, high volume high speed coolant that keeps the wheel clean and everything cooled and lubricated. Grinder was known as Edgetek, made in Connecticut.

Dick Z

[HuFlungDung]

I'm not very experienced with dressing diamond wheels, even though I have several on the go for light duty tool sharpening. I've had zero success dressing in the conventional manner.

AFAIK, the only thing you can really do is crush dress it. The wheel is not spinning fast for this, it is rolled against a hardened roller and pressure crushes the bond allowing the dulled grains to fall off. There is nothing on earth that will dress the diamonds themselves.

I was attempting to restore the free cutting action of a well used wheel without a crush dresser. The only thing that seemed to work was to spin the wheel up about 1/2 speed, then bear firmly against it with a soft steel rod bringing the wheel to a stop in just a few revolutions. Repeat many times. Once the old rounded off diamonds fall off, then you can use a dressing stick with the wheel running at speed, to grind back the bond, because that is all that the stick is capable of cutting.

[mactec54]

HuFlungDung That sounds like a very good way to reck your diamond wheels,

There is a dressing stick made by Norton it's name is Norbide this is made for dressing Diamond & CBN wheels, you mount these sticks just like you would a Diamond, & dress away they do a perfect job

Just do a search on Google & you will find them

Dressing Diamond and CBN Wheels
• Resin and Vitrified Bond, Diamond and CBN Wheels:
Choose a dressing stick one or two grit sizes finer than the
abrasive in the wheel – in a soft grade (H or I).
• Metal Bond, Diamond and CBN Wheels
Choose a stick the same grit size or one grit size coarser than
the abrasive in the wheel – in a medium grade (K–M).

Product Number
Description
NORBIDE STICK
1/4" x 1/2" x 3"
Diamond & CBN hand dressing stick

NORBIDE STICK
5/16" x 1/2" x 3"
Diamond & CBN hand dressing stick

[HuFlungDung]

Maybe, although I didn't wreck that wheel.

I think the trick is that nothing is going to touch a diamond or CBN wheel running at operating speed. The wheel must be running slow to make it seem 'soft' so that the bond holding the diamond is broken, releasing the rounded off stone. I have my doubts that holding a Norbide stone (practically another diamond) against a diamond wheel is going to be harmless to the very stones you are trying to expose. You want something considerably softer than the diamonds to erode some of the bonding matrix back, leaving the diamonds sticking out and virtually unharmed.

But I could be mistaken. All I know is that I got my wheel to cut again after the treatment I gave it.

[mactec54]

HuFlungDung
If you read what I put below & in the other post you will see that you should choose the right dressing stick for the wheel that you have, to do the job, also you don't hold the dressing stick in your hand you mount it like you would a Diamond, The Norbide stick you mostly use for doing forms & shaping a wheel, But you can use it for dressing any wheel if you are skilled at using them

You also dress the wheels at normal operating speed

Dressing Diamond and CBN Wheels
• Resin and Vitrified Bond, Diamond and CBN Wheels:
Choose a dressing stick one or two grit sizes finer than the
abrasive in the wheel – in a soft grade (H or I).
• Metal Bond, Diamond and CBN Wheels
Choose a stick the same grit size or one grit size coarser than
the abrasive in the wheel – in a medium grade (K–M).