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  1. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by ImanCarrot View Post
    I've heard others say they use bleach in their coolant. Is this a viable option or will it damage my mill please?

    I'm machining plastics, aluminium and stainless and using a water soluable coolant (10% mix) cutting using a 1/2" 2 flute end mill.

    My problem is that the sump stinks- like when you leave your clothes in the washing machine too long- that horrible "damp" smell.

    Will bleach be ok to add?
    If your tank is sitting for a while between uses then you need to remove the swarf at the tank bottom, and aerate. We used to have problems not with smell but with slime that would plug the pump intake screens. We bought something called Triadine 20 from J&L Industrial and add it according to label directions. It kills bacterial and fungus and is approved for use in machining centers. Stuff works great and now we get 6 month's out of a batch of coolant as opposed to 2 months. We could probably go longer but at 6 months I'm sure it's pretty much toast due to the high volume of aluminum we run through it. In my opinion adding a chlorine to water soluble oils that are made from petroleum products will likely produce chlorination byproducts, ie chlorinated petroleum, but then again who knows, I'm just a machinist and not a chemist Hope this helps.



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    Quote Originally Posted by ImanCarrot View Post
    I've heard others say they use bleach in their coolant. Is this a viable option or will it damage my mill please?

    I'm machining plastics, aluminium and stainless and using a water soluable coolant (10% mix) cutting using a 1/2" 2 flute end mill.

    My problem is that the sump stinks- like when you leave your clothes in the washing machine too long- that horrible "damp" smell.

    Will bleach be ok to add?
    I'm with dertsap on the common sense point. A little bleach goes a long way and to be honest I use to throw a couple of cap fulls into the Mazak lathe (cap. just under 60 gal) where I use to work if the coolant was getting a little green around the gills. It would usually extend the coolant life by a few months although an aerator and skimmer would have extended it much longer to be honest and would have been cheaper in the long run. They wouldn't buy an aerator nor a skimmer though so in the summer it was biofilm heaven if it sat for a couple of days between jobs. No corrosion issues, everything, including the inside of the pockets with collet holders where corrosion free. I talked with the Mazak tech about it when we had to pull the turret for a hydraulics problem. Said the bleach wasn't a problem at all and no corrosion issues either. A better brand of coolant with a biocide, a skimmer and aerator would have been ideal though. BTW we cut 303; 304; 316 SS, delrin, nylon, UHMW, mild steels, S7 tool steel, 6061 and 1075 alum on that machine w/ no problems from the bleach reacting with the parts either.

    Suppose you were an idiot and suppose you were a member of Congress. But I repeat myself.
    Mark Twain


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    Be careful with the Triadine 20, we bought some and never put it into the tank.
    Breathing the mist is harmful! Not sure what they were thinking when selling this to us.
    We tried a product called picocool which was more expensive and never worked well.
    Switched back to Rustlick G-1066 D. We added a small aerator and oil skimmer to solve our problems we had with bacteria growing.

    Take back the Triadine 20 or make sure you don't breath the mist!



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    Quote Originally Posted by Dr Pete View Post
    Be careful with the Triadine 20, we bought some and never put it into the tank.
    Breathing the mist is harmful! Not sure what they were thinking when selling this to us.
    We tried a product called picocool which was more expensive and never worked well.
    Switched back to Rustlick G-1066 D. We added a small aerator and oil skimmer to solve our problems we had with bacteria growing.

    Take back the Triadine 20 or make sure you don't breath the mist!
    Triadine 20 is a mild respiratory irritant, much like water soluble oils, the key to using Triadine is to dose it correctly, and only redose when culture plates show the need to, you can't just add a little each week or the concentration can build up to unhealthy levels. Proper ventilation is a must in any machine shop running a bunch of VMC's and lathes with flood coolant. We use Rustlick G-1066 D but only in our surface grinders that grind ceramics with diamond wheels, G1066D is specific for diamond machining. On a side note, breathing mists of many things can be harmful, you must have proper ventilation to keep people healthy in the shop. G1066D spray mist is harmful to breath as well, contains a fairly high % of boron in it.



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    Quote Originally Posted by JDenyer232 View Post
    Triadine 20 is a mild respiratory irritant, much like water soluble oils, the key to using Triadine is to dose it correctly, and only redose when culture plates show the need to, you can't just add a little each week or the concentration can build up to unhealthy levels. Proper ventilation is a must in any machine shop running a bunch of VMC's and lathes with flood coolant. We use Rustlick G-1066 D but only in our surface grinders that grind ceramics with diamond wheels, G1066D is specific for diamond machining. On a side note, breathing mists of many things can be harmful, you must have proper ventilation to keep people healthy in the shop. G1066D spray mist is harmful to breath as well, contains a fairly high % of boron in it.
    We use the rustlick on every machine since we grind glass with diamond wheels.
    I wasn't aware of the boron in the rustlick, I'll check into it. The picocool was horrible for misting and was impossible to ventilate and didn't work as well.

    Thank you for the information, I appreciate the help.
    P.S. sorry for kinda hijacking the thread about putting bleach into coolant.
    All relevant, we all learn new things!

    Dr Pete



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    Quote Originally Posted by Dr Pete View Post
    We use the rustlick on every machine since we grind glass with diamond wheels.
    I wasn't aware of the boron in the rustlick, I'll check into it. The picocool was horrible for misting and was impossible to ventilate and didn't work as well.

    Thank you for the information, I appreciate the help.
    P.S. sorry for kinda hijacking the thread about putting bleach into coolant.
    All relevant, we all learn new things!

    Dr Pete
    No problem, we all learn something new here, that's what makes this a great forum. No matter what is in a coolant, we must use ventilation to get rid of spray mists, it's not just the coolant but whatever you are machining or grinding that can get in the lungs, ceramics and glass are far worse for your lungs than any coolant additive. Ventilate, ventilate, ventilate, or yeah did I mention ventilate



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    Adding Bleach?! I've worked with a variety of coolants...First hand experience, if you need to add something to your coolant, CHANGE BRANDS! There are a lot of choices, some better, some worse... Rustlik certainly falls in the latter catagory!

    I'm not sure what you're running, but from my own experience, Qualchem QC251c or Blaser Vasco 1000 works extremely well on a variety of materials. Qualchem has almost NO ODOR whatsoever, but is a bit of a hog with make up. Blaser has a mild perfume scent, but holds up extremely well and requires very little make up to maintain! Both coolants put up with the typical shop "lack of maintenance" abuse! Typical changeovers in my shop are 12 to 18 months (9 machines) and I have roughly 0 time to maintain this stuff... I'd call some local reps and ask for demo's...Most vendors will charge up a machine for you at no charge to try their stuff out...

    Stuff to stay well away from include Rustlik and Hengstefer Neosol (Rustlik "spoils" if you leave it sitting and Neosol smells like old socks after a few months!). Whatever you do, though, DON'T ADD BLEACH TO YOUR COOLANT! Guaranteed that you will burn out seals and screw up the internals...



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    I personally wouldn't add anything to the tank without first consulting with your coolant manufacturer.

    We've had EXCELLENT dealer and factory support from Qualichem. We were having some problems, (stank, then foaming...application induced problems, and not the fault of the coolant) and they were immediately available to offer an intermediate soluttion, then the next day, the rep came by and took a water and coolant sample. About a week later, they sent a lab report and long term recommendations. Bravo!



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    Default just not too much

    Hi guys,

    bleach works pretty good. I have never had an issue wit the corrosion but be careful not to add too much as it will cause skin irritation. is is not unlike handling hot chili. a burning sensation that gets worse with prolonged contact.
    i don't use it myself because i use my machines daily and the coolant seems to evaporate or leak before it goes stinky
    billy



  10. #22
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    Default Re: Can I add bleach to my coolant?

    Put some copper in your tank it will kill the bacteria, brass works too


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



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