Hey guys thought I would share a quick Project that I put together this week. I have to make a couple graduated dials for an old metal lathe restoration. I am doing it on the cheap so just bought a small rotary table. I didn't feel like incrementing the table a fractional amount 100 times, so with about $60 worth of electronics and a little bit of code I automated the process.
highlights:
* forwards and back buttons on hand control to index position
* switch so buttons operate as a jog mode
* home button
* external trigger pin (to say fire a drill cycle when next index position is hit)
* windows app to configure table for degrees or divisions
I could've spent a little more time on the actual stopper mount, that is super quick and dirty for now but the features and code are really handy.
total cost with 3" rotary table, 2" three jaw, and electronics was $160
Couple small updates to this thread, I ended up having to upgrade both the power supply and the stepper motor to get more power. I am now using a NEMA 23 269in/oz stepper, and a 12v 5amp power supply. You don't win any awards for skimping on power, just needless risk of losing steps.
the Windows app to configure it also received a couple updates. It can now automatically jump to any index you specify, and it will keep track of what index you are currently on and display it on the main interface. Also if the Rotary table is not yet configured with the Windows app, it will default to running in jog mode. this is so you can do set up without a PC attached.
Below is a video of the setup I used to create some large graduated dials for my metal lathe.
He DZ1,
I like your work on how to create a graduated dial on the lathe. But how to punch numbers on a circular surface? Do you have that on video too?
I want to change the dial for my mill z-axis. It's now mm-based and want it per 0,1mm
I've a litle bit larger Rotary table and could drive it easily with a NEMA 17. Maybe you had to set the Phase current higher...
I've done similar project but without the need for a pc and much smaller. So it's really possible to go smaller!
Hi Driller, The set up looks good thanks for sharing
I don't have a video on punching the numbers but I did take a picture of the jig I used, basically I cradle the dial, the piece of wood that I insert locks it into place and also provides a backrest for the punch so that all of the numbers are in the same plane and not twisted. it is still up to the user to increment it just right for the next number, but all of the hard variables are accounted for. I tried punching a couple by hand first and I just could not get it right. This set up allowed you to do okay by hand. If I did it again I would probably also add a guide to keep the punch perfectly vertical.
When I put together the electronics I just grabbed off the shelf components to make it easy. By trade I am a PC developer so using a gui on the pc to configure it was natural for me. I am happy with this decision because the debugging tools for windows are much better than the debugging tools for Arduino, so it saves me development pain. Also there are no complex setup requirements or instructions to remember other than plug it in and press a button. Some of the videos I saw used a keypad and LCD, so they have to program ways to flip between setup mode and each of the settings. That would have been a lot more Arduino code to fuss with. The Arduino sketch in this case is very simple. It can also be run from a Windows tablet so a full sized PC is not required.
for the Neema 17, I did not use a flexible coupler, there was a slight misalignment between the motor and input shaft, so I was losing some power in a binding action. I just upgraded the motor to a more powerful one to overcome it. Losing steps will kill work, so I figured a bigger motor would not hurt anyway.
Thanks for the quick reply DZ1,
I will add the guide to keep the punch perfectly vertical, good idea.
One question remains, did you paint your numbers and stripes black and with what?
I tried oil and water based paint, even nail polish. But the cutting fluid and other chemicals I generaly use when operating machines on my hand just fades the paint on the dials.
Do you have a picture of your finished graduated dial?
The stand-alone microcontroller-based RotaryController was a project that I did for someone,that didn't want a learning curve. No Arduino or PC involved.
Windows tablet like SurfacePro2&3 are expensive or are there any others cheap ones that will do?
Yes, flexible coupler is what I used and without alignment it skipped steps too.
Nice blog!
I havent tried to paint the numbers yet, thought about it but the weather got nice so have been distracted. nailpolish would have been my first thought too.
The dial in the holder is the finished one, I have not taken a 360 of it though. actually i havent even used it yet, still have to scrape the dovetail.
there are some knockoff windows tablets that you can get for like 70-100 dollar range thats what I bought.
I really need a graduated dial fast and large possible spacings between stripes for more accurate operation.
I will make it with POM (plastic) 70mm.
I will paint the stripes with waterproof marker and for now temporarily the numbers on tape.
Later punching the numbers and paint them too, maybe even better out of ALU.
I'll post a video here when I'm done.
P.s. Thanks for the Acer knockoff windows tablet, that I didn't knew.
Took me some time to get it to work!
I tried to drive the Lathe chuck spindle at the back with my Rotary Table without drive belt.
But the bearing forces where too great resulting in skipping LOTS of steps (NEMA17!).
Therefore I had to configure a workaround without too much conversion of the lathe and Rotary table.
The Sketch in the video with the modes on whiteboard shows that I'm cutting 3 times around for "long stripes", "middle stripes" and "short stripes" reducing human errors.
I will paint the stripes and the numbers with waterproof marker later and post a picture here.
great video thanks for sharing ! I really like the way you used the limit stops to set the length of cut and then auto index when the carriage returned home. Cutting the dial in 3 passes is a really good idea too keeps you from loosing track. I did the length of cut by eye and had to keep track in my head which length to do next it was a bit nerve racking with 100 divisions to keep straight lol. Using a potiemeter for mode selection was great too ! Originally i tried to space the rotary table from the ways up around centerline with blocks of wood but then couldnt find a cutter I liked to get to the dial (lathe saddle hit wood so had to be really long) The way you mounted yours in the chuck was a really good way to go too Great video all the way around really enjoyed it. I look forward to going through the other videos on your channel as time permits -Dave
Thanks, glad I could help...
This is the finished POM_Delrin(white) dial after clean up with fine liner marker stripes(black).
Gives a good contrast.
Mill Z-axis dial now works great!
As you can see the smallest stripes are 100 divisions too, with auto-rotate within a few minutes.
Real easy POTmeter Mode-select, works better than I thought.
I was very carefull mounted the chuck because of damaging the thread and (not shown in video) rotating the chuck for tight connection with the Rotary table.
By the way, punching the numbers in POM is not that easy, especially this donut shape that just bounces back
But it was fun making this dial with your idea, thanks.
Thats the way to go! Here is another way to cut synchronous pulleys or gears. I usually use delrin, but this machine will work just as well with metals. this is fully cnc controlled with proper g code program. The holding oz/in can be extremely hih.
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rotary table automatic indexing
Re: rotary table automatic indexing
Great video all the way around really enjoyed it. I look forward to going through the other videos on your channel as time permits -Dave
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