People with Rabbit Lasers - Knowledge Pool

[zax15uk]

I have the desktop Artsign JSM40 and it has an adjustable table, in fact I like the design better than the similar Rabbit. All machines need a method to focus the laser so a height adjustable table is standard.

It will lower enough to allow focusing on 2.75" thick material, with the standard 2" focal length lens.

Zax.

[smartresins]

would the artcut m40 also be basically the same thing? I am getting confused because many of these look the same to me and come from the same place, well to me anyways, china and all are simular in price? LOL. The artsign. As for the thickness, 2 3/4 would be more then thick enough. That is Presume you are telling me correctly, that I can place a 2 3/4" piece in there and still be able to engrave! 1" thick is about the thickest I would need on a regular basis, and the other items would be 1/16 inch thick, and those I would like to be able to cut, both styrene and balsa/bass wood, or veneers. Thanks. Where did you get your artsign from? Thanks. Jody

[zax15uk]

Actually I think after checking it is more like 2.25" that I have done successfully. I've had thicker materials under the laser but the engraving plane was not the top surface.

Yes, here are some pictures showing the table fully up and down.

http://i413.photobucket.com/albums/p...k/IMG_3423.jpg
http://i413.photobucket.com/albums/p...k/IMG_3424.jpg

It will work best with 2" or less materials as you'll be optimized for power (correct focal plane) but it is possible to do thicker materials up to 2.25" since it is still within the working distance of the lens (with more power).

I know it is confusing with all these companies selling basically the same product. They mostly use the same sub components, from local manufacturers and assembly them to their own specifications. Just ensure you are buying from one with FDA and CE approval.

I purchased mine from MBKP (a re-seller in the US) as they provide some support and were cheaper. I also preferred the software with this machine compared to others.

Styrene doesn't cut well in my experience, you'll get much better results using Acrylic (Plexiglass/Perspex).

Zax.

[PatternPaving]

Our 120W laser was experiening some difficulty when some condensation got on the tube (the laser was shooting a bolt of lighting down the length of it, inside with the laser) and we had a drastic loss of power (plus an added 'click' coming from the back of the machine)

We ordered a new laser, and a new power supply (this would be our 3rd power supply - the orginal, the new one for the 120watt laser cause we thought that might have been the problem with power output months ago, and this new one for the 80w) and suddenly the 80w laser is cutting BETTER then the 120w.

We think we might have gotten a bad tube to begin with. Its also much brighter then the 120w as well.

Frank however took care of us quickly with all the needed supplys and we're up and running again in no time.

Just thought I'd throw in our latest experience with the Rabbit laser.

[Mr C]

I have A rabbit with laser engrave and cut system (DSP4.1)
I have 5 problems with mylaser
1. the rectangles are not perfecly square
2. the circle ends do not meet perfectly
3. when I engrave curved lines they are not perfectly curved they are slightly jagged. I cant find any place to adjust them
4. when I engrave bmp it is not so sharp
5. somtimes, when I engrave a small logo it comes out thinner than the actual logo

[Dongxulasers]

I know them, Rabbit machine is Junk

[shane@lazer-me]

We had a similar problem the lens carriage was loose causing it to tip
The carriage is mounted on 4 rollers these are mounted on camed shafts
We tignted them up and it cleaned up images and straitened up the lines

SHANE

[MacGyver]

I know them, Rabbit machine is Junk

Spoken like a true rival laser company... moron.

[Magritte]

I have a rabbit 3040 though the laser tube has just died on me. Where can I get a tube in the UK?

[shane@lazer-me]

Try cris at hpc laser halifax west/yorkshire uk
http://hpclaser.co.uk/index.php?main...products_id=25


shane

[LaserNOT]

Hi Zax,

Need your help here please.

Got an order for 300 pcs of the same thing, and need your help in setting up "multiple" part cycles.

The work is simple enough and "images/text" is made up and ready. Can make perfect parts if I do
just one part at a time. You can imagine what that is like. I used to like this client, but I almost dread
his calls by now...

Each part is:
A 1" X 1/8" round wooden disk, 3/4"graphic on one side, 1/2" text on other. There is a small hole drilled at
what turns out to be the "top" of the disk. Each pc will go thru machine 2 times, front and back cycles.

The necessary clearance from the top edge center of the disk for the hole is 4mm max.

So, Y=3.5 is fine (since I'm using 0,0, top left corner for home) for the top reference. This places the image
at the proper distance from the top, for the hole and once done helps to establish the "proper" (or close enough)
position to "locate" the part on the second operation/back side cycle.

I have room for 49 pcs reachable by the laser on the table, but can only get 2 or 3 parts usable at 1 time.
I have tried 7 parts across the top edge (nearest vent, for reference). 1st & 2nd parts ok, but #3 #4 are unusable.
By the time it gets to part # 7, the picture/text is 50% or more off to the right of the disk. Close looks show
that even part # 2 is not as good as part# 1.

Relative reaction occurs to same degree on the "verticle" stacking of 7 pcs, as the text/pix are dropped
off toward the bottom of disk, instead of right.

I've tried tinkering with the c-gap, and r-gap and that is how I got even 2 to 3 parts sort of acceptable.
I just can't get this to "locate" properly and I know its me, not the software or machine.

Thanks
JT

[LaserNOT]

Another one Zax,

Another possible client asked me about using one of "his" fonts to engrave with. He says he
can supply me with a pdf file to get the font from.

Ok, fine, but how would I get it into newly draw?

Thanks again for I know what will be THE answer!
JT

[zax15uk]

JT, the solution is simple enough.

You need to draw 2 disks the same size, then put the front and back designs on the disks. Then set the disk for the first side to the invisible layer, so it doesn't cut but keeps everything aligned.

Send the first side of the disk to engrave, selecting the invisible layer too.

Turn over the material and send the second disk to engrave, use the same col and row gap as you did for the other side and it should all line up perfectly.

If that doesn't make sense, you can send me the file you have and I will set it up for you (email below).

Zax.
zaxuk *at* in.com

[zax15uk]

JT... ask him to send you the font (.ttf) if possible as it will be easier.

If it's really a logo and not a font then the easiest solution would be to import as dxf. Providing it's a vector you can extract it from a pdf, I think Corel can do it but I use Adobe Illustrator. Sometimes it doesn't work right, so if he can just save it as dxf you'll have better luck.

Zax.

Another one Zax,

Another possible client asked me about using one of "his" fonts to engrave with. He says he
can supply me with a pdf file to get the font from.

Ok, fine, but how would I get it into newly draw?

Thanks again for I know what will be THE answer!
JT

[ddanutz1]

Hello Rabbit Laser owners,

Could somebody be so kind and tell me what kind of controller card is there inside Rabbit machines, i am interested in HX-1290SE model. Is it Leetro MPC6515?
Does anybody have the 1290 model (SE or SCII) ?

Thanks,
ddanutz1

[LaserNOT]

JT, the solution is simple enough.

You need to draw 2 disks the same size, then put the front and back designs on the disks. Then set the disk for the first side to the invisible layer, so it doesn't cut but keeps everything aligned.

Send the first side of the disk to engrave, selecting the invisible layer too.

Turn over the material and send the second disk to engrave, use the same col and row gap as you did for the other side and it should all line up perfectly.

If that doesn't make sense, you can send me the file you have and I will set it up for you (email below).

Zax.
zaxuk *at* in.com

Ok, and thanks for that info, and I'll experiment as it sounds like a good way to "combine" file image/s among other things.

But (IF I understand your post) I'm not having any trouble "making" the image, its the "location spacing" if that is a way to say it that is killing me.

If I make just 1 part at a time, its perfect. And that would require that I have to load/unload each piece 1 at a time, reload another piece then hit the engrave button and so on for each piece.

I'm looking for a way to load the table with 49 pcs, and hit the engrave button 1 time, letting the machine "do the work".

But like I said, the image to disk spacing is out of whack progressively as it moves from part one to part 2 and so on.
I still feel it is really in the setup/spacing I'm just missing....something.

Thanks for your help, by the way, on the other font message/question, I had misunderstood what that customer told me. Basically he'll be sending me a .bmp image. Easy enough.

[zax15uk]

JT, yes I understand the problem and the directions I gave will fix it.

Here's how/why...

When you send the front side to the engrave/output window it takes the extents of the design and applies the gaps for the repeat. So it is essential that when you send the back it uses the same extents or you won't get an accurate step and repeat, resulting in an error that multiplies each time.

To control the extents you just place the front and back designs into the same virtual box. Since you don't want to cut or engrave the virtual box you place it on the invisible layer, it has the effect of keeping the extents accurate and therefore the step/repeats aligned but doesn't actually do anything to the design.

In this example I used a star to represent one side and the text for the other. The lower left is the origin, and the same gap settings were used. The only difference is the left side had a virtual box around each side.

http://i413.photobucket.com/albums/p...tep-repeat.jpg

I hope that makes more sense.

Zax.

[LaserNOT]

JT, yes I understand the problem and the directions I gave will fix it.

Here's how/why...

When you send the front side to the engrave/output window it takes the extents of the design and applies the gaps for the repeat. So it is essential that when you send the back it uses the same extents or you won't get an accurate step and repeat, resulting in an error that multiplies each time.

To control the extents you just place the front and back designs into the same virtual box. Since you don't want to cut or engrave the virtual box you place it on the invisible layer, it has the effect of keeping the extents accurate and therefore the step/repeats aligned but doesn't actually do anything to the design.

In this example I used a star to represent one side and the text for the other. The lower left is the origin, and the same gap settings were used. The only difference is the left side had a virtual box around each side.

http://i413.photobucket.com/albums/p...tep-repeat.jpg

I hope that makes more sense.

Zax.

I will always blindly take your advice. I am having some trouble understanding the "invisible" layer stuff though, (just haven't ever used it yet)
and will try.

Please help me understand what the back side has to do with the front?

Another example could be:

Same everything on front, but I don't even have to do a back side. Say it is glued to a backplate or something.

Would/should I still do a "blank" backside for the positioning to work correctly? In my little mind, following you, I would HAVE to do a "blank" backside even if I only had to actually engrave only the front side?
Make sense?

I'll take you up on your offer to fix a file for me, then I could "look" at it to see how it's done. I'll attatch files.
Well, this won't allow me to upload the .ndr files. In any case, it is just text created with newlydraw.
Let me go soak in this a little while & I'll get back to you, and thanks again for your help!

[LaserNOT]

JT, yes I understand the problem and the directions I gave will fix it.

Here's how/why...

When you send the front side to the engrave/output window it takes the extents of the design and applies the gaps for the repeat. So it is essential that when you send the back it uses the same extents or you won't get an accurate step and repeat, resulting in an error that multiplies each time.

To control the extents you just place the front and back designs into the same virtual box. Since you don't want to cut or engrave the virtual box you place it on the invisible layer, it has the effect of keeping the extents accurate and therefore the step/repeats aligned but doesn't actually do anything to the design.

In this example I used a star to represent one side and the text for the other. The lower left is the origin, and the same gap settings were used. The only difference is the left side had a virtual box around each side.

http://i413.photobucket.com/albums/p...tep-repeat.jpg

I hope that makes more sense.

Zax.

Hi again Zax,

I have just noticed something that you may not be aware of,
I"m trying to do all the front sides FIRST.

Than I reset up on the back side, and do all of them NEXT.
So a 2 "run" process...help any?
perhaps this is where I'm crossing up on your explanation?

[zax15uk]

JT, yes the correct process would be 2-run as you describe. If only doing a single sided item there is no need for a 'blank' back side. The only benefit of the invisible layer is to ensure alignment between sides.

If you want to send your file to me, you can e-mail it to "zaxuk *at* in.com".

Here is the icon used to set layer....
http://i413.photobucket.com/albums/p...raw-layers.jpg

Set to don't output - which doesn't actually mean it won't send to the output (engrave) screen but it does mean it won't actually cut....
http://i413.photobucket.com/albums/p...-no-output.jpg

Zax.