Reply with QuoteDo you guys have any pics of your work....speaks a bunch.
Thanks,
Paul
Gradual Loss of Power
In my experience a gradual loss of cutting power could have a couple of cause but lets look at too cases I have encountered
1. When your machine is cold take note of the power output. I used to run all the time at 100% but after shattering two tubes I have backed off to 85% power and at least so far have run without mishap. Anyway, if your power output remains constant and you are still loosing cutting power then about the only thing left is coolant temperature. Measure your water temp when you start and then again when you experience the loss of power. On my machine, after about 2-3 hrs the coolant warms up enough that is kinda lukewarm and I loose about 25% cutting power, splitting in about 1/2 the water with cold water brings back the cutting power within a minute or two. Its like magic.
2. If you are actually getting a power loss after a few hrs as noted on the power meter then you have a colling problem in the power supply. Mine was doing this and I opened the power supply and found the fan was reversed making it very inefficient, I just flipped it around so it was pulling air out of the supply and that problem got better, I added a few cooling holes around a few items that I knew were getting hot and it worked great.
Mike
www.classicplayfields.com
Do you guys have any pics of your work....speaks a bunch.
Thanks,
Paul
LaserNot, The origin (0,0) can be changed, just edit the TopLeftX and TopLeftY under Device in the properties menu.
This is also where you adjust the motor steps per inch (DPI) to get sizes correct (this is not for setting the image resolution).
You adjust the line gap to adjust DPI in images.
Zax.
Uhhh, HUH?
Adjust line gap to adjust dpi for laser?
Please explain,for example mine is set at 1 and always has been. What would (should?) happen if I say make it 2, or 5?
Thanks
I'll preface this with *** this is how it works on my version of Newlydraw ***
Yes, strange - but true!
OK, so 25.4mm to an inch...
Line gap (mm) = 25.4 / DPI
So your setting of 0.10 (I am assuming that's what you mean, and not 1) would be 25.4 / 0.10 = 254 DPI.
Other options:
0.20mm = 127 DPI
0.10mm = 254 DPI
0.05mm = 508 DPI
You'll notice after changing the line gap from 0.1 to 0.05 that the time doubles, which makes sense because it's now doing twice as many line scans at half the pitch - resulting in double the pulses per inch (or mm in this case).
On many materials (glass, granite etc) increased DPI does NOT result in a better more detailed image, this is because the laser is removing material by micro fracturing the surface and if these are too close together you actually get a blurred looking result. The same goes with power, often the best results will be at low power and lower resolution.
Try it to believe it :-)
Zax.
Originally Posted by LaserNOT
Boy, im getting pretty much confused here. You are right, it is set at 0.10 now. I have the following options:
0.025
0.05
0.075
0.1---->MY SETTING, by default I guess
0.125
0.15
0.175
0.2
Now, software (PhotograV) says match machine dpi to picture dpi for best results.
Which setting should I use if the picture is indeed 300dpi? I have ability to "change" picture to probably anything thru software I suppose. I've noticed most pictures before manulipation are comming in at 72, or 92 dpi. I have just plugged in the machine as 300 dpi to the software, and resize the pix to 300dpi.
Machines spec sheet shows resolution ratio at 0.0254mm. What the heck is that mean?
Thanks for your help, this is really confusing to me and I thought I was making good progress too...ugghhhh!
Hi again Zax,
Well, just when I thought I was making progress.
I thought I had the table "locations" figured out but NOT. I need to find a way to make my table locations repeatable. It's just basically a "hunt & peck" routine for me. I guess I just don't understand the 0,0 concept/s yet.
For example, the dox say the table has a cutting/engraving area of 220x200mm. To me that's 8.7 wide and 7.9" long. The 8.7 wide is fine usually, as it give something less than that because of approx 1/4" on each side, but when I set the length to the 7.9 the dolly hits the bottom (front) of the table and just vibrates and jerks, then finally starts to cut a line again across width, then up the right side till it gets to the top and hits there too, grumbles a little then burns back to the left 'home' position. Unless you use 6 7/8" wide you still can't get the 7.9 length because of the "table screws" at the back of the unit. Also, the bottom (front) stops at 1" or so from the screws. I can see that the dolly is actually at the bottom of its travel, but am just totally confused i guess.
If you have a step by step way, boy I'd sure appreciate any help....
So, I have just been putting things in the center of the table, and then try to "guess" where the part should go. I usually burn a sheet of paper 1st, then put the part "under" the laser where I think it should be. Most of the time that works, but not always perfect. Can get by with small parts, but large parts are starting to come in now and I need to figure this out pretty quickly.
As accurate as these things are, there HAS to be a way to get the table/laser set so I can make repetitive engravings and I Should be able to get things located "just" about right I would think.
I ruined a good piece of wood trying to engrave a 7x6 picture trying to locate right, but of course it was off....alot! Just can't afford to do that many times as the wood cost 10.00. Thanks for your help ALOT!
In most cases the DPI should be selected based on the material, for example if you are etching a photo on marble you may use 0.175 line gap (145dpi).
I don't have Photograv but get great results with Photoshop, so I would then create the photo at the correct size and 145dpi. If the closest you have is 150dpi that should work fine too.
The max DPI is 0.025 = 1000dpi (actually 25.4/0.025=1016dpi).
The machine spec is the accuracy of the steppers, basically it's 1mil per step which is 1000 steps per inch or 1000dpi. They're all related.
I hope I'm not making you more confused.
Zax.
It is actually very simple, but figuring it out for the first time is a challenge.
http://i413.photobucket.com/albums/p...e_modified.jpg
It is possible to get 220x200, but I changed my 0,0 (origin) to be slightly away from the side wall so ended up with 210x200 of usable area. I decided to add a ruler at the top and side so lost a little area - but it makes alignment so much quicker.
Set the 'Topleft X' and 'Topleft Y' to the location you want for 0,0. You can experiment with this but the further top and left the more travel you will have.
Then manually move until you get to the maximum travel and enter those values in for the 'Width' and 'Height'. Do not let the machine hit the end stops or you will lose steps (no feedback as it uses stepper motors, not servos).
Check that there isn't something preventing full travel to the front - on mine there is a bushing that acts as a 'bumper' which is fine but make sure it isn't interfering with the travel.
If you still have trouble let me know.
Zax.
Hello again Zax,
I'll forgo the dpi stuff for now, I gotta get this table thing figured out.
I have compared my setting to yours and the are very close. Your topleft X is @ 20, mine is @ 13.
Your topleft Y is @ 308, so is mine.
Your width is @ 210, mine is 220.
Your height is 200, mine is 205.
I hope I don't jump around here too much, but am still confused.
After engraving/cutting anything, my carrage returns to topleft of table to the area around the top left table elevation screw. It starts cutting almost 3/8" away from edge of wall at these settings. Now that is the setting in the engrave menu at 0,0. It apparently has NO meaning in the newly draw "display" screen, it can be anywhere, but it MATTERS in the engrave screen I've figured out.
Lets just say for example that I wanted to start the cut at perhaps 1mm from the left edge of the wall, and just below the screw. I should move carrage via move buttons to that position and declare that 0.0???
Or, what if I wanted to make top left way up almost to the exhustvent and BETWEEN table screw posts? That would of course give me more lenght but take away width. In some jobs that's ok, as I can use the extra length. So, I would then make THAT 0,0 for that job? Then switch back as needed?
Does that make any sense to you?
I'm sure you are right, this should be pretty simple, but it has just not "HIT" me yet.
I'm really used to a machine shop mill table I guess and I ALWAYS start at the exact CENTER of the work, mark the tables with 0,0, then work my way over L, back to 0,0 then R, then back to 0,0 then up then down, and so forth, but it is an exact match like that, and I'm thinking that would work here too.
I like your ruler idea and would like to try that also, as I would like to get a consistant "starting" spot for the work. Its bad enough to have to "resize" the work from piece to piece, but not having consistant table locations is just a nightmare on setup.
Let me give you an example. I've been making some round 1-1/2" wood keychain inserts. I put the blank up against the wall and screw post. Then I hunt/peck by "drawing a box" with the menu. I then have to "guess it right" by relocating the x/y by say 1mm or -1.5 etc for each photo. Now once I've got it where I want it, I can make 1 or 1000 pieces as long as I don't change the picture. If I do, I have to "rehunt" on another blank piece till I get it where I want it. After awhile, i get quite a few "used up" pieces that are good for nothing. I guess I don't mind that so much but it will get expensive i the long run and I just HATE not being able to accuratly predict where it will start.
Remeber I ruined that plaque I did, and I need to do some more of those, but am just afraid i will screw them up. I can "almost" get them where I want them by placing a piece of paper on table, "draw" the box and try to locate the plaque "in the center" of that burn, but that is silly and not that accurate either as I usually get it "slanted" one way or the other.
I suppose I would kind of like to use the "left wall" for locating the edge to get the work "square" with the cut, but there has to be a better way.
I hope this is not too confusing to you and I really appreciate your help.
Now, I'm off to experiment more...
Type to ya later...
JT
JT,
I think the problem is you keep moving the origin (0,0), this is NOT that you want to do. The machine origin should remain fixed.
It sounds like you want to make it the very left edge of the table X0 and just below the top left screw as Y0.
Edit your TopLeftX and TopLeftY to get 0,0 where you want, it sounds like you'll need to set TopLeftX to 3 or 4 and TopLeftY to around 310. Then check to make sure the width and height positions are valid, from the main engrave screen enter 220 in the 'X box' just above the 'To X,Y' button and 0 in the 'Y box' then click 'To X,Y' and the head will move to the right. This should be fine, but if you are no longer on the table just reduce the width to something that works. Do the same for Y making sure you have 1 or 2 mm of clearance to the full travel stop (look under the table on the right front and check the bearings are not contacting the stops - if they do you'll lose position and over time cause damage).
OK, so now you have the origin setup.
If you place material butted up against the side wall and touching the screw you'll have the corner of it at 0,0.
So you create the job, as you said it doesn't matter in the design screen where the job origin is because when you send it to the engrave screen the top left extend becomes 0,0 on the job.
The thing to remember here is that if you have a design that you want centered in the plaque, just create a virtual plaque boundary in the design and set it on the gray layer (do not engrave?). This keeps everything in alignment so you can center the design within the material. It also makes sense because when you are designing it you can see how it will look.
So now everything will work the way you want.
If for some reason you want to move the start point away from the origin (like you said, if you want to do it in the center of the table and not to the left edge) just change the X and Y positions and click 'To XY' and you'll see the job moves on the table to where you select. This is based off the machine 0,0 so enter 50 for X and you'll have the job 0,0 set at 50mm from the left wall of the machine.
It really is THAT simple.
You can also store locations, so if you regularly use 50,0 you can use 'Save XY to' and later 'Use XY of' to go to that memorized location.
If you want to PM me with your e-mail I can send you some example jobs so you can see how using the hidden layer works. That may be the trick you haven't found yet - the 'doh!' moment.
I recently did a 1 off stone for a corporate gift, they provide this unique slice of rock so I had to get it right - no 2nd chances. They were really happy. It was mounted on a driftwood holder with a lamp to illuminate the center.
http://i413.photobucket.com/albums/pp220/zax15uk/js.jpg
http://i413.photobucket.com/albums/p...k/IMG_3371.jpg
http://i413.photobucket.com/albums/p...k/IMG_3409.jpg
Zax.
BEAUTIFUL!! STRIKING! HOLY SMOKE!!!
Did I say GOOD LOOKING??
That is exactly what I am talking about.
Man that is pretty. And I am talking shock and awe!
Zax, that is really great looking. I'll have alot of "location/font" questions after I get this figured out. Man that is pretty. Anyway at this time I wouldn't even consider that kind of a job until I get this in my head. However, I NEED to be able to do that kind of stuff and it really refreshing to see that these "little" machines can do that kind of work.
Yes, please lets PM. jctaylor@basin-net.net is my email.
I haven't found/seen that "grey" are thing your talking about. Well maybe I have, but don't reconize it yet.
Thanks for your help Zax!
JT
Thanks - I appreciate the comments.
Here are some screenshots to help you find the elusive layers...
http://i413.photobucket.com/albums/p...raw-layers.jpg
http://i413.photobucket.com/albums/p...-no-output.jpg
http://i413.photobucket.com/albums/p...ut-example.jpg
If I am engraving and then cutting out, I would do the entire design and with the cut lines set as don't output I will select everything and engrave the item. This keeps the engraving in the desired location. Then back to the design screen and change the cut lines back to normal (red) and send those to the machine (do not select the engraved parts). It will just cut.
Zax.
Oh, gosh man, I'm already lost.
I just guess I'm too stupid to get this.
I am playing now and I noticed that whan I turn ON the machine, the carrage moves to the TOP right. Then when I do a job, after it gets done, it goes to where I THINK I have my xy set to 0,0. (Read, top LEFT), where it stays untill I turn if off or do another job which is where it starts from, always unless I turn machine off again.
Ok.
On the setup screen, as I said 13mm is topleft X. I would assume that by changing that I could "move" the start position somewhere else? For example in my thinking, if it starts cutting/engraving 3/8" from the left edge of the table, then say for example setting it to 5 should move it closer to the wall. HUH? Doesn't work, but that is my thinking.
I just guess I'm not getting how set the 0,0 ?
Also, see if I get this right..Also somewhere I remember options to set the "steps" the carrage takes per button press. Mine I think is set to 50 if I remember, but I can't find those settings anymore and Ineed to change it to 1 for now...
I'm thinking that "width" is from left side to right side.
Height is from top (by the vent) to bottom (front of machine).
Is that right?
I know this a mess, perhaps we could voice on my nickel if you are interested??
Thanks Zax!
jt
JT,
Check you have the correct driver, machine make/model.
On the last link above, do you see where the top right drop down list is - it says 'jsm40'. Is that what you have set? If not that would explain your problems.
When you turn the machine on it initializes and finds the home switches.
The position it stops at is not important, if you set X and Y to 0 and click 'To X,Y' the head will move to the origin you have setup (based on the TopLeft numbers).
If you send a job it will also go to the correct location.
The same is true for when it finishes a job, I have mine just stop where it finishes but there is a checkbox to have it go back to the start location.
I rarely use the jog buttons - instead just input the X,Y coordinate in the boxes and click 'To X,Y'.
Yes, you understand the width and height correctly.
Zax.
Ahhhhh, Thanks Zax!
I'm making some progress, finally!
I was able to "locate" the start position I've been wanting. For some reason I thought I could not change the position that that paper told me to set the 0,0 to. Not only can I change it, I can put it where ever I want, and it repeates magnificantlly!
This is too cool! It appears that with a little math work i should be able to figure out any position I need/want. I'm going to play a little. Now, if I can just figure out what the other numbers actually mean. For now, to get exactly in the top left corner, (the edge of the LEFT wall and at the edge of the top left screw is on my machine: 11, 313.).
Yep, I've played with the other #'s (height/width) and am now able to hit bottom right exactly perfect at max BEFORE it hits the bracket. Now set at width=220 and height= 214, its against RIGHT wall, bottom of travel just before it bottoms out. GREAT!!!!
So for now, it appears my NET width is 209mm and length is 203mm on the table. It follows that 104.5 and 101.5 should be the EXACT center of the table. Gonna experiment right quick
I just don't "get" why those numbers are so "jumbled", but as long as it works I'm happy. Must be chineese I guess????? hahahaa
I'm glad you are making progress.
If you look on the device setup page, where you input the TopleftX/Y numbers you'll see 8 buttons that select the coordinate system. You currently have the top right one selected (at least you should), so the machine 0,0 is top right (where it finds the home switches) and then X is towards the front and Y is to the left. Now remember this is only the machine physical coordinates, it is only for setup. What matters for operation is the Pos Mode setting... XY at TopLeft, which is 0,0 for jobs (the virtual table).
If you edit the TopLeft numbers and click 'To TopLeft' you'll be able to get the virtual table origin exactly where you want.
This is how all CNC systems operate but the machine coordinate system is usually hidden from the operator - a tech setup only.
Zax.
I hope you guys dont mind me jumping in here. I am thinking of possibly buying a rabbi. No, not for my hat either. LOL. Anyways I need a few basic rude questions answered if possibel. First, does it come with any kind of instructions manual. If it does, can it be read in english? LOL. Sorry, but I do need to ask that. Second, can one upgrade it for a rotory attachmant to do mugs and glasses and pens. If not, no big deal, but I am looking at the vast areas until I find out what the market really is here. Third and maybe more important, can I use corel draw, photoshop and more importantly, photograv with it? Can I use them directly or will it need to be indirectly. If indirectly, is there any loss from switching from my program of choice to thier software or any setting I will need to change ect. I am not dumb by no means, but I am very new to this whole idea and even though I have used autocad years ago, that was a basic style software then and I never did get proficient with it! I need something that I can use with rudementary knowledge, or easily learn how to use it. Now, Is it advisable to get a back up cutter, or mirors or laser tube ect. Now down to the more important end, how is service, warrenty claims and servicability of these? I am truthfully hesitant to purchase a chineese import as I am afraid that if I run across a problem, that I will have my ship sunk before I find a new one to swim to. Trust me, I cant afford my boat to even take on water, let alone sink. I will be using everything I have to get started and I dont have much to do that with! If I had more, I would go epilog or gravograph! Any and all help is appreciated. Thank you. Jody
Hey Jody,
I didn't buy a Rabbit but a very similar machine (Artsign) that came with NewlyDraw software.
It was purchased through a US representative and was provided with a manual in 'Engrish' as well as a DVD with setup, software and troubleshooting guides.
Since Rabbit also has a US based rep you should receive adequate documentation and there's always the forums to help out too.
The rotary add-on is available for some of the machines, I think the 3040 and above but you should check with the company.
Yes, Corel and CAD software should work with it fine. In my case I use ArtCAM for 50% of jobs and Corel or CAD for 40% and the provided software for those real small quick jobs 10%. I've had no problems importing files, in fact it works better than most software from that point of view.
I would not recommend buying a spare tube and mirrors etc are unnecessary, but it is important to confirm the local rep has parts and that their prices are reasonable.
Zax.
The art sign is another option I am looking at. It does not appear to have a movable work surface however? I would like to be able to engrave boards like log slices. What thickness of material can you do on your machine. Not the cut thicknes, but the thickest part you can put in it and still engrave on? The rabbit I looked at appears as though it has a movable table so I can do thinker parts. Though it is almost twice the price. Thanks. between those two, arw what I am thinking of right now. Thanks. Jody
