1) Using CorelDraw I draw a design
2) I sent to RDWorks
3) I take Screenshot of the CorelDraw Design in Colour
4) Using the ScreenShot I Open that in my RIP Software
5) I Print the image using my RIP Software and then this is the Final Correct Size
6) In RDWorks I resize the Design by measuring the Position of the Registration Lines on the Printed Piece.
7) I then try and position the Printout in the Laser so it cuts the Shape 100% correct
Yes a lot of steps but doesn't take too long until I get to Step 6 and 7, Positioning the piece in the Laser. As you can see with "Example_1.jpg" I print registration Lines along the Left and Top and at the moment I start the Laser and Pause and Move the piece, restart, pause and move again and continue doing this until the laser engraved lines match the Printed Lines. So the Top and Left side will always be in the same position as I have this setup on the Print side, So now I need to do the same thing with the Laser, have a method where I can push the Top and Left into a set position on the Laser. I know, its probably such a simple thing to do but my Brain is fried from everything today. BTW, the RIP Software doesn't have Import or Export and can only Open an Image so thats why I have to Screen Dump the design in CorelDraw.
I dont have a laser but a friend does and I've played around with it. In my experience when you send a jpg to a spindle it "cuts" as raster like it is (back and forth) but if you send a vector file .ai, .eps or .pdf ok (I'm not sure about .cdr) you can make the vector lines different colors and speed & power setting can be set by color. And the laser will cut the vector lines only.
Also I'm not sure why you'd need a tip software for a laser hehad a universal laser and I think we have just used their print driver.
I'm not sure if I really got what you mean, but if your problem was SAME starting work position you should work with pictured setting (absolute coordinate) in RDW.
BTW. here blue square is fast and is 2% - will be not really cut, just will round around material "frame". If you have well set red pointer this should be handy to run whole pic before cut just with pointer.
As above comment ( abyss ) , that's how I do it , run a 'fake' cut and position your piece above , probably you can see the black line(frame/laser burn) through the paper and align it easily . if not offset the picture 2 mm all around so you have a slightly bigger picture and some room to play with
Wanted, Someone with more IQ then I do
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