Need help getting a Fanuc Robocut Alpha running

[tlmkr38]

I also had an old wire at the start and it was disaster. Now i bought new one quite good quality and it's much better, but must say it's not my favourite part of working with this machine.
Also i have to say that i'm newbee in this part, so I'm not the first person to give advice.
Anyway U surently need to cut wire with cigarette lighter while pulling it, so it will have nice cone at the end of the wire, and about 300mm (~1ft) straight line. Then while pushing it into low guide it should go qiute smooth. While pushing it through part the hole should be about 5mm so wire don't have a place to bend. Then only hard thing is to aim into the lower guide.
And of course everything needs to be clean. And did i mention about cleaning?

thanks! If I could get 1 ft of straight wire I could probably do it. This stuff curls up like a spring right of after burning it. Figured I'd probably have to get new wire. I cleaned as much as I was comfortable doing. If you had seen the contacts... Top one was so corroded it was like digging dirt out of the sides... Gonna try it again in the morning but I'm thinking I'm gonna have to get a new roll of wire as you say to do any good.

Again, I appreciate all your help

[steryd]

if U wind wire on the brake drum and all the rollers as it should be (just before putting inside the upper guide), turn the tension on and pull wire aside along the drum brake winding.
When U cut wire there with lighter it should stay quite straight.

[tlmkr38]

Thanks! I'll try that! I've gotten it to make a cut but in playing with the settings I lost the ones that were on it so it will cut but slower. I'll figure it out though Someone on another board also said to use new wire and old wire sets and won't stay straight.

[steryd]

If U mean EDM settings it is not a problem at all. Registered settings are available in manual in technology part. I have one and they are completely the same as registered. So definetly wire doesn't matter for settings. But anyway U can use AI mode to establish settings (when U enter EDM screen press left rewind function button- arrow next to function buttons beneeth screen) there U set the material and conditions, and for standard quality it can register parameters, and also calculate cutting time if U input your program.

[tlmkr38]

Ok this is killing me here.. I have input the settings from the book based on what it says for my material and I am still breaking wire. Now also I am starting on an edge and I remember hearing that doing that can be hard on it and it's better to start in a pilot hole, Seems I have even seen a thing made of plastic or something to put around the wire when starting on an edge like a C shape to help. Sure wish I could find those old ones. I talked to the guy who run this machine when it was new and he sent me the books he had when he went to school for it. It helped understand some of it for sure. Also have found the AI ? settings with the little graph that shows like roughing and finish and you move to them to use.

Got a friend here that runs EDMS but not Fanuc's. Gonna get him to come over sometime and maybe explain like why you set everything and all. Hehehe if it was like learning to run mill once I saw something done I couldn't figure out it was a DUUHH moment.. LOL! Sorry I haven't updated lately but I only get to mess with this thing now and then as I'm the only one in the machine shop part now. Gonna look up what you talked about and figure out how to input program and determine time as that is something I would like to do.

We are shut down next week so maybe I can get over here with no distractions and figure it out. Again, I appreciate all your help. You have helped a lot trust me! Happy holidays to you and have a great Christmas!

[steryd]

There is a function PWB. Turn it on to Prevent Wire Break while starting on edge. Ofcourse U can start with lower parameters, (especially idle voltage and on time) or even turn the feed override to half just for cut in.
I have just get manual straight from Japan (ordered in july )

[tlmkr38]

ok I'll look at that. I just reset the settings to where it is cutting again but might be able to up it once it gets started. No load 2 on 6 off 45 Voltage 25 tension 1200. So far it is starting and cutting but as always if you can make it go faster, time is money I'll look in the book for that function and see where it is. Thanks again I see postal service isn't any better there than here LOL!

[steryd]

This is described in troubleshooting part.

[steryd]

To cut as fast as possible U need to keep everything clean. Especially contacts and table where it sticks to part. Also energy blocks need to have good contact with nozzle bases and not to big groove. And water should be also clean and deionized, and so on and on.
And also u can set constant feed (G94) and in many cases it makes cuting more stable cause cutter doesn't try to increase feed to maximum available with conditions and U get less backwadrs movement then.

[tlmkr38]

I'm just finding the troubleshooting part of the manual and it has shown me some helpful stuff. The manual I have is all to pieces and have finally gotten it straightened out and taped together. I've dome some cutting and all working on tapers and offsets now.

[tlmkr38]

Hello again! hope your Christmas and New Years was good. We had real good ones here.
So, I'm slowly getting this stuff going, not by any means efficient or an expert but I have cut some metal and all, figured out where to change the amount of offset the machine will do and such and getting more familiar with what everything does. I can cut like a notch to size but am having to not sure offsets (G41/42) and just program it with that in mind. For example if I am cutting a notch and I use offset if I start at Zero and call say G1 G91 G41 x-0.25 Then it will not offset until it gets to the end of this line as in it will go to say X -0.256 but the Y will stay at 0.0. Now when it goes in the Y direction it will go until the offset Say 0.506 and then back out of the block. It's in my programming I know but I'm used to a mill and it will move to offset before starting the first cut.

Also having a hard time figuring out tapers. Again, I'm sure its me but I'm doing something wrong. I've tried the G51/52 and it will not like set the taper before it starts the straight cut but instead cuts the taper while it is moving forward. I"ll figure it out though. Below is and Idea of what I was cutting. I've got to cut a notch in a progressive die section soon that has to have clearance so hopefully I can figure it out.

Hope you have a great day! Thanks again for your help

OFFSET

G0 G92 X0.0 Y0.0
M86
G1 G91 G41 X-0.1 Y0.0
X-0.25
Y1.0
X3.0
G0 G40X1.0
G90
M30

TAPER

G0 G92 X0.0 Y0.0
M86
G1 G91 G51 X-0.1 Y0.0
X-0.25
Y1.0
X3.0
G0 G50 X1.0
G90
M30

[steryd]

There are list of offsets in settings (as i remember there are list of 20 offsets) if u enter the G41/G42 command U shold also programm the D number which actually refers to the number on the list otherwise it will cal number 0. And acqiuring correction at the end of first move is totally proper in any steering system.

For taper U have to program also angle with T command. For instance G52 T2.5 means U want to cut tapper to to the right top from nominal plane of 2.5 degrees.
As far as I remember maximum value is 10 degrees, but it is achievable only for about half maximum cut material thickness.

[tlmkr38]

thanks! I think I wasn't putting a G1 move in to set the taper before actually cutting. I'll try that monday

[steryd]

Now i found a thing that doesn't work properly and hope to find help.
Problem is water flow tap. I can manually open it to fill the work tank, but while work it is kept closed no mather which level of water flow is set). I thought that it may be caused by replacing a valve (there is diaphragm valve and old had no core and spring inside so it was always open) but i started to check and it occured that there is no current on the valve coil when water flow is on. I checked the PMC ladder and it looks ok- signal route becomes white when I push water button on the conditions keypad. And routes change according to flow level set.
What else can I check? Is tere a relay or transistor bridge that execute regulation of valve opening level?
Any ideas?

[steryd]

I have no time lately, but keep searching from time to time.
Valves and relays in water system are controlled by board A016-1100-0450/01a which looks like outputs management board. There are just few transistors on it but they don't look like executives for PWM control. Beside of that near the connector to water tank is just a bunch of simple relays that seem to control outputs to this plug. That would suggest that there should be few AC voltage lines or some transformer onthe board,but i did not see anything like it there. There is a terminal connector that may be multi voltage input, but i didn't manage to check it yet.
Am i on the right way to find what is wrong?

[steryd]

Does anyone read this?
Maybe someone have seen circuit diagram of this board? Would be easier to have one istead of investigating signal routes.

[tlmkr38]

I'm not real sure as mine is not a submerged machine but it does sound like your on the right track. We have a guy who comes in and works on some of that when it goes bad as he is real good on that stuff. I'll ask him what he thinks and let you know.

[tlmkr38]

Did U succed to run this machine? Mine has first cutout done already, had some more to fix ofcourse.
I have completely diffetent question.- is the roller next to brake roller (smallone on short lever) pushed by spring or just set by finger? In my machine it takes any position i setand pushing it to brake makes it only being stuck with no force at all. Is it normal?

First off I want to apologize to you for not replying to any of this, For whatever reason I have just seen where you had been posting about your machine and I never saw it. I'm sure you have figured this out now but the roller that goes on the brake I believe is just pivoting and held down by its weight. After reading about your board and electrical problems I feel bad about not seeing and replying sooner. Did you ever get a book? Mine was in bad shape and I just now got it taken apart and put in a 3 ring binder. If you haven't I can see about copying it or sending it to you. I'm still having problems making mine cut a taper. Everything looks right but I keep getting a error 40 alarm which is a programming error. May have to start sending this stuff in private messages so I can keep up with it

[steryd]

No problem. I've managed with the roller, it was quite dirty so wasn't falling under it's weight as i suppose it should. now it's just fine.
I've seen Your message and replied. Not sure if I can help with tappers. I'll try to check Your program on my machine and check, but soonest I will probably have time on monday.

[tlmkr38]

here is what I found on the tension. I tried sending in in PM but said your inbox was full. Hope this helps