Need help wiring brushless controller

[doanwannapickle]

As the title says, I need some input on wiring a brushless controller. Actually, I'm changing out one controller for another.
This is the wiring diagram for the new controller:




This is the wiring plugged into the existing controller.



The large red, black and white wires on the right are obviously the motor U, V and W.
Likewise, the smaller wires on the left are for the Hall sensors and correspond to HU, HV, HW, V+ and Ground.
The question is, which color is which? Are these things standardized?

TIA,
Walt

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[CitizenOfDreams]

Typically U-V-W and HU-HV-HW would have matching colors, but it does not seem to be the case with your old driver.

My wild guess is:
Black=GND
Red=Hall sensor V+
White, yellow, blue=HU, HV, HW (not necessarily in that order).

[doanwannapickle]

Now my guess would have been quite different.
I had red, white, yellow pegged as as HU, HV, HW and blue as V+ and black as GND.
I'd hate to guess wrong and let the smoke out.

[CitizenOfDreams]

Is your old controller working (or at least powering up)? You could try measuring the voltages on those 5 wires. Or you could check the PCB traces and see where they go.

[doanwannapickle]

I replied to this once. I must have forgot to post it.

At any rate, I believe you called it from the start.
Using an ohm meter, I found the red lead goes to the large (ish) cap on the far left. The black lead goes to the three small caps and the white, yellow, blue go to the 810 resistors next to those small caps.
I think it would be reasonable to assume the white, yellow, blue correspond to the white, black, red on the motor leads.

[CitizenOfDreams]

Glad you got the wiring sorted out, let us know when you get it working.

What happened with the old controller, did it smoke? What was it based on, the infamous Sanken chip or discrete transistors?

[doanwannapickle]

Oh, right. That was the reply I forgot to post. The old controller works fine but it's for a sewing machine. Love the motor but the controller is optimized for a sewing machine. No surprise there. Very difficult to get proper PWM speed control out of it.
There are several solutions to get these controllers working with our stuff. I spent way too much time on those only to find them barely usable.
I finally decided to cut my losses and get a compatible controller.
As for whether or not I've got the wiring sorted, well as soon as I get the time and courage, I'll let you know if it was a success or if I've ordered another motor.
Cheers.

[Al_The_Man]

I would agree on the hall red & black, as to the hall signals you shouldn't do any damage trying the six combinations, the motor exhibits jerky and obvious wrong motion if the hall combo is wrong.
Is there any marking on the board in Chinese script?
Al.

[doanwannapickle]

Is there any marking on the board in Chinese script?
Al.

Just on the motor leads. You can see it there by the 201 resistor. I'll get a better closeup if you know someone that can translate.

[CitizenOfDreams]

There is Google Translate app - you point your phone at the hieroglyphs and it shows you something fairly close to English.

[doanwannapickle]

I don't think knowing the motor leads helps if you still don't know the hall leads.

[doanwannapickle]

Well, I hit a snag. Take a close look at the actual controller and compare that to the schematic.
Where the V+ reference for the hall sensors used to be, is now a forward/reverse terminal.



In a bit of wishful thinking I wired it up anyway hoping that terminal might somehow do double duty. That only made it run backwards. No surprise there.
I does run open loop way slower that it should. The hall sensor a simply not in the game.
Got any more suggestions for me?

[CitizenOfDreams]

Use the +10V terminal to power the Hall sensors. I have the same controller as yours.

[doanwannapickle]

Thanks, I was afraid to try that. Some hall sensors have a very wide voltage tolerance and some max out at 5.5v.

[CitizenOfDreams]

I didn't even think about that. Can you measure the Hall sensor voltage on the old controller to be sure?

[doanwannapickle]

It's 5v but the sensors still might be able to handle 10v. And the sensors in the motor are really hard to get to.
Sigh.

[CitizenOfDreams]

Well, if you don't want to take the motor apart, you could add an LM7805 and make 5 volts. Any chance to find some documentation on the motor?

[doanwannapickle]

Well, if you don't want to take the motor apart, you could add an LM7805 and make 5 volts.

Excellent!
Quick, easy, safe.
I'll let you know how it works out.

[doanwannapickle]

Well, that turned out to be an exercise in futility.
The LM7805 worked perfectly and gave me a nice clean 5 volts but the performance increase out of the motor was barely noticeable.
It appears these sewing machine motors are very different critters.
While I was waiting for the LM7805 to arrive I decided to try to figure out what voltage the original controller was operating at. I connected the new controller and took voltages between ground and one of the power legs on the motor. With two different power supplies the voltage varied from 0 to 50% as the speed went from zero to max rpm. Made sense.
Then I hooked up the original controller thinking that all I had to do is double the voltage at max rpm to get the operating voltage. Not even close. Before the motor even started turning, the voltage was bouncing around 60 volts. As soon as the motor started turning the voltage ricocheted between 1.6v and 167v. Never go anything approaching a stable reading.
Back to square one.

[CitizenOfDreams]

So what exactly is wrong with that motor? Not enough torque?