How I fixed my Chinese TB6560 controller (updated) - Page 4


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Thread: How I fixed my Chinese TB6560 controller (updated)

  1. #61
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    hey telah,
    Something is wrong in these boards. Opto couplers do not works as expected. Try bypassing that.



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    Hello,

    there is one thing I would like to try but I am not sure how to properly do it, I would like to operate the board manually without the pc and parralel cable to make sure it is not a pc issue.

    This is what I assumed so far, correct me if I am wrong.

    1) If i put 5v on the Enable pin on the db25 connector the motor should lock, if it not the case there might be a problem in the circuit, to confirm this I could bypass the optocoupler by giving 5v to the Enable Pin on the TB6560 chip itself, if the motor lock up with 5v on the chip this mean I have an issue somewhere in the enable circuit.

    2) the second thing i'd like to check is the motor direction and step, but I am not sure wich pin need to be shorted and how, What I am assuming is if I short pin1 and the Step pin the motor should start spinning and if I short pin 1 and the Dir Pin the motor should change direction, is that right ?

    for pinout you can refer to my previous post on mach3 config.

    Best Regards,



  3. #63
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    you are right about enable and dir but motor will not spin unless you provide clock at step pin.
    you can try 555 clock generator.



  4. #64
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    Quote Originally Posted by telah View Post
    I am using a 24v 10a power supply you can see my mach3 config in the screenshot.

    Lasik, what dip settings are you using ? I am currently set to 75% current, Fast decay and 1/2 microstep.

    Regards
    telah,

    I am running x, y axis at 100%, fast decay, full step on these motors
    1.8Deg. MINEBEA STEP MOTOR-MPJA, Inc.
    and running z axis at 75%, fast decay, full step
    and 4th axis left unused (I have 4 driver board).

    'leaveme' is correct that the 'step' pin needs to be clocked; the TB6560 will move the motor 1 step with each rising edge of a square wave on the 'step' pin. For 1/2 stepping and a motor with 200 steps per revolution equates to 400 low/0.0v to high/5.0v transitions for the motor to revolve 1 time.
    You could use a manual switch for testing purposes but keep in mind each step is very small. Also with a manual switch, if the switch chatters/bounces you may get multiple steps.

    lasik2025



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    i looked all over to posting new thread can't figer it out hmmmm

    i have a 3 Axis TB6560 here need help really bad

    the board is the same layout as the one telah posted pic's up all motor's work but y axle won't pull just make's funny vibrate nose the problem is it was working the farst day
    i had it turned off couse i needed a cuppler for y i got coppler yesterday and motor won't work

    i tryed puting y axle wire's on x axle and it ran fine smoth no over heating
    but the y won't work can't figer out what i did worng i reinstalled program clear all seting

    the motor is good tested on othere port's on board it's the y on board or i messed something up in mack 3

    i allso played with the motor tuner got it to turn on y axle but very very week i could hold the motor in place

    it is allmost like the y axle is not geting anuf power or the pin layout for y is offset some how i tryed everything

    sorry for my spelling here not the best

    and how in the world you post a new thread in here ?

    time do's not matter stoping it do's if you can stop time for one hour thin that hour would be forever


  6. #66
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    gothdragon,

    to start a new thread one needs to go to forums then select the appropriate category; under the specific forums/category is a 'start new tread' button near the top. this thread is in 'general elctronics' (see link)

    General Electronics Discussion - CNCzone.com-The Largest Machinist Community on the net!

    a suggestion that may not be too satisfying, but since you can connect x-axis to the y driver and it works, why not just leave that connection and change Mach3 pin settings to use this wiring? you also mentioned the motor works on a different port, so leave the motor connected there and adjust Mach3 accordingly. This would at least get you going until you are able to figure out the issue.

    lasik2025



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    Unhappy

    that is what i did last night buy i put y on x the y port it self is not working x and z is so im out 1 port

    thank you by the way makeing new form now hate to post my problems on othere's forms here

    time do's not matter stoping it do's if you can stop time for one hour thin that hour would be forever


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    gothdragon

    Check the DIP switches...
    Switches 3&4 on my X axis would not short to ground when in the 'ON' position.

    In the end, rather than replace the switch, I soldered the problem pins to ground.



  9. #69
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    I purchased one of these from HubbardCNC on Ebay. He even sends you a video showing your board being tested as working, and includes an xml set up file for Mach3. I figured I couldn't go wrong if the board has actually been tested, and I buy a lot of parts from him. I was wrong. I thought I was the only one having these problems, but apparently not - the problem is crappy engineering and poor craftsmanship from the manufacturer. These boards may be a great project for electronics buffs, but I need to be cutting, not soldering. I was going to resell the board on Ebay, but after reading this post, I wouldn't want to dump these problems on someone else. I'll just keep it for a test board and stick to using the more expensive, but extremely reliable, Geckos.



  10. #70
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    board worked for 2 day's thin the y burn out now the board is shot did nothing but try to cut something as soon as the cnc tuched the wood the board shot nolong works im going with a new board


    i never got to cut nothing all the run's i made where test run's trying to figer out how to size the table im new and not shere how to size table in mach 3
    once i tryed to make a cut it just stoped working

    is there some reset on board or something im to the point of saying the hell with this really i tryed 2 board's and both shot mc433 motor control i allso got and that won't even work

    time do's not matter stoping it do's if you can stop time for one hour thin that hour would be forever


  11. #71
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    B U Y A G E C K O ! ! !
    I have tried several TB6560 based boards, including HubbardCNC's, plus 4 boards from Rockcliff, and have fried them all (except the one from HubbardCNC - it just doesn't work, like all the other TB6560 boards in this thread.) That's hundreds of dollars wasted, not to mention the time lost. Mariss from Gecko assured me that I would not be able to fry the Gecko driver, and so far - almost a year - he has been right. I have no problems with it. I could have bought three more G540s with the money I wasted on these inferior drivers. You get what you pay for.



  12. #72
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    thank you i am looking at thim now i looking at the g540 4-axis is that all i need beside's power and motor's 250$ don't seem that bad at all

    i well read more into thim but ya they look more promesing thin what the hell i been working with

    time do's not matter stoping it do's if you can stop time for one hour thin that hour would be forever


  13. #73
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    You won't be disappointed with the G540. They are having a sale right now, so you can save some money. The regular cost is about $300.

    They have an instruction manual online. I strongly suggest reading it. If you have any questions, there is a section on CNCZone for Gecko, and also a Yahoo group. Mariss frequents these forums and quite often answers questions himself. Also, you can always call Gecko's support - they are extremely helpful.

    Along with a power supply, you will need to install an inline resistor. The instruction manual tells you how to do it.

    Good luck.



  14. #74
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    I purchased a 4 Axis TB6560AHQ board and plugged it up and it worked straight out of the box.. However... I discovered a few odd things with it.. First *I* Blew up the Y driver by accidentally cross plugging a stepper on the X and Y jack.. Ordered a replacement chip, cut the leads to the old one, desoldered the tabs, and installed the replacement driver chip. However, I did notice that the board came set to 75% on the current setting on all 4 axis.. or, so I thought, turns out, for what ever reason the Y axis has a short or something, because it's always been at 100% caused some major head scratching trying to figure out why one axis could move faster than the other without stalling. The only other issue I had was a 2 of the 4 optos on the INPUT side were bad.. again, this could be my fault do to playing around and testing the unit. Other than that, the board has worked well. One note: I'm using EMC, not Mach 3.

    Thanks, Connor



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    hello,

    I am also a rookie in this domain and like more others I bought one of this board, 4 axis.
    For now, I just playing with it and testing with some NEMA17 motors and a 14v dc source.

    Everything looks fine, motors have good torque and after some motor tuning (in mach3) they don't loose steps and are moving well.

    The single problem (until now) is the Z-axis which keep the motor energized even if E-Stop is pushed.

    This mod will fix this problem? Or is a matter of settings?


    =========================
    later edit - found the problem

    So, the problem was generated by a "tired" opto-coupler, more exactly the U808.
    I change it, temporary with an unused one and everything seems to be in order.

    I have to thanks to lasik2025 and to all people who contribute at this thread.
    It seems to be one of the most useful information for this controller board.


    Regards,
    Seb

    Last edited by interzis; 12-11-2010 at 09:38 AM. Reason: editing


  16. #76
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    Default Some problems

    Hi Iasik
    I moded my 3 axis tb6560 after the electric scheme you provided and for couple minutes the hiss dissapeared. Not completely but motors were singnificantly noiseless.
    The problem that remains is the board is now working only in 200 ppr and it seems the setting i do from dip swich at least at motor resolution has no effect.

    After couple minutes the hiss appeared again. I think 74hc14 i just put there now is dead.

    It migth be the capacitor? I'm not electronist and i think i missplaced 100 nF not 100 pF.

    Can you tell me at first sight where can be the problem?
    Thank you!

    PS. Sorry for killing the english language. :P



  17. #77
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    lasik2025,

    I went back, and read over the whole thread... I have the 4 axis version of this board, and I'm not having ANY of these issues, except for the strangeness with the dip switches not working correctly on one of the axis (has it maxed out even when I set it to 75%). However, I'm using it with EMC, and my steppers are 354oz nema 23's for my X and Y. I do notice hissing depending on where they're at.. I'm running them 1/2 stepping vs 1/8 or 1/16 (my Z is much smaller, and is at 1/16, it's a 287oz).. Not exactly sure if I'm getting full torque out of it or not. I'm planning on testing that soon.

    Thanks, Connor

    Inner Vision Development Corp. - http://www.ivdc.com
    Website Design & Development. Shopping Carts, SEO and more!


  18. #78
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    I already have one of these 3 axis boards running on my machine, only doing 1/2 step. So after reading this thread, I have ordered another that I will inspect and modify, that way I can just swap the whole board out and see the difference ( I will post findings ). Looking at the data sheet, the clock frequency should typically be 100kHz, from what I have read most boards are running near 40kHz, this may be to get around the poor slew rate on the inputs on the shipped boards, with proper signal decoupling and buffering the clock should be way higher than 40kHz, anybody know what effect the full wave drive 1/16 step has on mid band resonance if any?

    David
    ( never stop learning )
    http://www.steamcastings.co.uk/


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    sigh...I just bought the 5axis stepper combo of this board from goodluckbuy. Does anyone know if the have fixed the problems on the newer boards?

    I was planning on using it to build my second cnc a hot wire foam cutter. My first cnc build was a Joe's hybrid. I used 4 gecko 203v's for that. They have been bullet proof.

    Last edited by Xnaron; 01-14-2011 at 03:07 PM.


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How I fixed my Chinese TB6560 controller (updated)

How I fixed my Chinese TB6560 controller (updated)