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Thread: Removing the Gantry v. Removing Z Axis

  1. #21
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    Default Re: Removing the Gantry v. Removing Z Axis

    Well written article to sell epoxy and epoxy grouting. Good for mounting a laser or sewing machine. Our millwrights would never use anything like that.

    1000x750 Workbee CNC - Mach4 - PMDX USB - Windows 10 Pro


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    Default Re: Removing the Gantry v. Removing Z Axis

    Quote Originally Posted by wmgeorge View Post
    Well written article to sell epoxy and epoxy grouting. Good for mounting a laser or sewing machine. Our millwrights would never use anything like that.
    Here is an indepth article on the proper use of commercial grade epoxy to set machines on prepared concrete surfaces. They stress minimum thicknesses of epoxy even for that.

    https://assets.master-builders-solut...y_Grouting.pdf


    My research finds Gary is correct but only if the proper procedure is followed and the grouting is more like an epoxy bonding to both surfaces. This would make the bond between the gantry and bearing mount permanent. That is what makes it work. Otherwise I am sure it would crack.

    Read more here> https://rlrowan.com/newsletters/pres...chinery-bases/

    Last edited by wmgeorge; 10-08-2018 at 06:49 PM.
    1000x750 Workbee CNC - Mach4 - PMDX USB - Windows 10 Pro


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    Default Re: Removing the Gantry v. Removing Z Axis

    Quote Originally Posted by wmgeorge View Post
    Here is an indepth article on the proper use of commercial grade epoxy to set machines on prepared concrete surfaces. They stress minimum thicknesses of epoxy even for that.

    https://assets.master-builders-solut...y_Grouting.pdf


    My research finds Gary is correct but only if the proper procedure is followed and the grouting is more like an epoxy bonding to both surfaces. This would make the bond between the gantry and bearing mount permanent. That is what makes it work. Otherwise I am sure it would crack.

    Read more here> https://rlrowan.com/newsletters/pres...chinery-bases/


    Thank you for passing on an interesting article. I enjoyed reading it.

    I'm thinking we've fleshed out the subject and taken it about as far as we can. Thanks for all your input.

    Gary




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    Default Re: Removing the Gantry v. Removing Z Axis

    The framing reference is a trade joke if you ever worked in the construction industry you would get it.
    Sorry about the inside joke.

    .



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    Default Re: Removing the Gantry v. Removing Z Axis

    Quote Originally Posted by Ntl View Post
    The framing reference is a trade joke if you ever worked in the construction industry you would get it.
    Sorry about the inside joke.

    .

    Whoosh - right over my head.

    No problems. Sorry I missed the joke.




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    Default Re: Removing the Gantry v. Removing Z Axis

    Quote Originally Posted by GME View Post
    If Nate maintains the .1 mm spec he advertises, I can live with it. I'll just buy some .001" shim washers and call it good. Even though I favor the epoxy bedding method (I know, you don't), I doubt I would bother with it to close a gap as small as .004" at its worst.

    I agree that any welding process will cause some distortion - even it's as little as .1 mm. I talked about it in PLJack's build post, when the subject of a gap came up. I'm hoping that mine meets the advertised spec, or very close to it. If it doesn't, I'll work with Nate to get it sorted out.

    On the stand, I don't see any functional difference in putting the stand together an 1/8" in in the air, or on the ground. I acknowledge that I may be missing something, but, so far, no one is filling in my knowledge gap. For me, the question is whether I can get the holes to line up where the stand mounts to the CNC frame. What I want to know in advance is whether there is some play where the legs and come together with the horizontals. I rarely see anything bolted together where there isn't some play. Whether there is, or the extent, will help me decide how I want go about it. I'm trying to avoid drilling out holes, if I can avoid it. That's the answer to your "Why not assemble it first like I did" question. I may end up doing it like you did (or are going to do), but I'm willing to spend a little extra time exploring an alternative. I'm retired and may or may not use the machine for profit. So, an extra hour or two spent looking at a different approach is no big deal to me.

    Thank you for your input.

    Gary
    Just assembled it but don’t tighten the bolts all the way install the router with a engine hoist or something similar so you can keep most of the weight off the stand. Then just line up the holes bolt them down and tighten everything up, then you can take the router off the hoist. I’m not really sure why everyone has such a hard time with something simple. Of coarse there is play in the bolt holes there has to be some tolerance or you would never get all those bolts installed. If you’re worried about it just open the holes up a bit prior to mounting the router.



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    Quote Originally Posted by GME View Post

    Whoosh - right over my head.

    No problems. Sorry I missed the joke.
    No worries, I worked with a guy that used to say “can’t see it from my house”. I’ve seen some pretty unbelievable things in my life with construction where you say to your self “how in the world did that pass inspection”. .

    I’m sure if you looked closer at your house you would see so many gaps that you could stick a quarter in that you would need a loan to fill them all. That’s why the finish carpenters make a lot more money.



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    Default Re: Removing the Gantry v. Removing Z Axis

    Quote Originally Posted by Ntl View Post
    No worries, I worked with a guy that used to say “can’t see it from my house”. I’ve seen some pretty unbelievable things in my life with construction where you say to your self “how in the world did that pass inspection”. .

    I’m sure if you looked closer at your house you would see so many gaps that you could stick a quarter in that you would need a loan to fill them all. That’s why the finish carpenters make a lot more money.

    I know exactly what you mean. When I remodeled my kitchen a couple of years ago, I found that the walls were way out of plumb. I hadn't intended to tear out all of the sheetrock, but the out-of-plumb condition sealed the deal. When I put up new rock, I used drywall shims and had to cut a kerf and sister on a couple of the 2 x 4s to get the wall where they should be. Some of it has to do with the relatively poor framing materials used in the last several years, but when I checked form plumb from plate to plate, it was clear that the walls weren't framed plumb. Anyway, it was worth the effort. The new wall cabinets went up like a dream, without any additional shimming. Also, my glass subway tile backsplash went on without even a hint of lipping. Did I mention that I HATE everything about drywall????

    I guess I shouldn't have been surprised, but I was. My house was built as a full custom job and way overbuilt throughout. I expected better.

    Gary




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Removing the Gantry v. Removing Z Axis

Removing the Gantry v. Removing Z Axis