New 2x4 Saturn build

[Ntl]

Well done Dan. Looks clean.
Is that DJA industries on the back? BJA, BLA.

Jack

Yes DJA Industries, some of the interior of the letters came loose when it was cut. I had a feeling it would lose the detail but that's how we learn by trying. I'll post some more pics when it's finished, I'm also going to post a video of the job being ran. It's actually a nested file with a few different parts being cut from the same blank. It might take a little while though since I need to edit down the video, we'll see how that goes since I'm not a video guy.

Dan

[difalkner]

we'll see how that goes since I'm not a video guy.

Dan

The three tips I would give you on doing a good video are:
1. Widescreen, widescreen, widescreen - not portrait
2. Good lighting
3. Hold the camera/phone still

And 4th of the 3 tips - widescreen!

David

[Ntl]

Here's the finished product, hopefully the next ones turn out better but for a prototype I'm happy.

Dan

[Ntl]

The three tips I would give you on doing a good video are:
1. Widescreen, widescreen, widescreen - not portrait
2. Good lighting
3. Hold the camera/phone still

And 4th of the 3 tips - widescreen!

David

I'm trying to use a GoPro type camera, I haven't looked at the footage yet so we'll see how it goes. I'm still a little green with premire pro, I may wind up just using premier rush since it's made for social media video's and is very easy to use.

Wish me luck David, you have a lot more experience with the you tube thing then me for sure.

Dan

[GME]

Here's the finished product, hopefully the next ones turn out better but for a prototype I'm happy.

Dan

Looks good. The frame would make a nice mirror. I would also look nice with a natural finish if made from wood (vs. plywood).

Gary

[Ntl]

Looks good. The frame would make a nice mirror. I would also look nice with a natural finish if made from wood (vs. plywood).

Gary

I was thinking the same thing, I used to make a bunch of aluminum laser cut wardrobe mirrors. I like natural wood finish as well, but the girl isn't a fan I'm sure you know the deal. I'm making a bunch of them so I'm thinking of doing one with just polyurethane. If you look at the other pictures before the stain and distressed finish the natural birch ply actually looks really nice. I was a little surprised since I haven't cut any plywood before, it actually cuts pretty nice. The only thing I realized is that you need to use a v-bit to get a nice edge. I'm sure there's other types of cutters that will do the same but I don't have a big selection yet.

It's definitely more fun making things finally and not working on the machine anymore. I'm fighting the urge to finish up some of the things I want to do to the machine and stay focused on making parts.

Dan

[GME]

Dan,

When you mention cutting birch plywood, are you referring to generic Lowes, Menards, Home Depot birch plywood, or are you referring to Baltic Birch? If you haven't tried Baltic Birch plywood yet, you are in for a treat. Baltic Birch has many more plies than regular plywood, and all of the plys are hardwood, unlike standard stuff, where the interior plies are softwood. Another plus is an almost complete absence of interior voids. It comes in an odd size, 60" x 60" vs. 48" x 96".

Another good option is Apple Ply by States Industries out of Oregon. It comes with different veneers, although I believe maple is stock. It comes in thicknesses up to 1-1/2" and in the usual 48 x 96 size, but can be purchased in lengths up to 120". It also has many plies, like Baltic Birch, and also have hardwood plies. Expensive stuff, but, depending upon what you are making, it's worth it. Here's a link to the site. There's a distributor locator. https://www.statesind.com/product/appleplyarchitectural

Gary

[Ntl]

Thanks Gary I'll check that out, and yes the birch I used was just Lowe's cheapo stuff. I have a piece of purple heart and piece of African mahogany that I need to design something to use them for. The purple heart is going to be for some inlays I know that much. I need to practice though since I haven't tried doing a inlay yet and I don't want to ruin the purple heart, the board was expensive and it's super cool looking.

Have you ever done any inlays?

Dan

[GME]

Have you ever done any inlays?

Yes. Here's a link to a how-to article you might find interesting. http://www.vectric.org/video/aspire4..._Procedure.pdf

I also do vacuum bag veneering.

Gary

[Ntl]

Yes. Here's a link to a how-to article you might find interesting. http://www.vectric.org/video/aspire4..._Procedure.pdf

I also do vacuum bag veneering.

Gary

Thanks Gary, I just read the instructions. What method do you use to remove the backing? I'm thinking I'm going to use my spoil board surface bit. I was thinking it would be better than the band saw since I don't have a fence and I think it would be less work anyway.

Dan

[PLJack]

Video is hard! Lots of work.
I've backed off on mine for the moment. For the work I found them to be boring and not a fun watch. I'm starting a touch plate project and think I will try to make a watchable video of it.

Routing a logo is also harder than it looks. I have a rough time with mine as the size shrinks. Even with a 0.4mm endmill.

Still that frame is leaps and bounds above your first cuts.
Did you find a nice nesting tool. I came up dry last I looked. It's all manual for me.

Thanks.
Jack.

[GME]

Thanks Gary, I just read the instructions. What method do you use to remove the backing? I'm thinking I'm going to use my spoil board surface bit. I was thinking it would be better than the band saw since I don't have a fence and I think it would be less work anyway.

Dan

I've never tried my surfacing bit. Maybe too aggressive? May try it sometime though. Here's my spoilboard bit. Note that it uses rotatable carbide inserts.



I don't use my bandsaw, because I usually have a 1-1/4" resaw blade in it, and it's too much trouble to change out blades.




I usually use a 1/2" downcut bit on the CNC. Whiteside is a top of the line bit, but runs about $10 more than the Yonico above. Amana is even more expensive than Whiteside. I've had great luck with Yonico, so I tend to buy them more often than Whiteside. I believe that Whiteside also has a 3 flute, which would be better, but maybe not so much better that it's worth the extra cost.

It helps to have a good, properly calibrated Z=0 setting tool (touch plate). That way you can cut the backing off to within a few thousands of flush and sand off the rest with a random orbital sander (fine sandpaper).

Gary

[Ntl]

Video is hard! Lots of work.
I've backed off on mine for the moment. For the work I found them to be boring and not a fun watch. I'm starting a touch plate project and think I will try to make a watchable video of it.

Routing a logo is also harder than it looks. I have a rough time with mine as the size shrinks. Even with a 0.4mm endmill.

Still that frame is leaps and bounds above your first cuts.
Did you find a nice nesting tool. I came up dry last I looked. It's all manual for me.

Thanks.
Jack.

I used the Vectric nesting, but I can't figure out how to link the two sides together. I'm not sure Vectric will link them so I'm using indexing holes since I need them anyway so the two sides line up perfectly anyway. But on the frames I still need to nest the parts inside of the drops manually then select everything and then use the nesting feature. I'll post a screenshot of the job once everything is dialed. The first one was just one piece for a test and I'm making some adjustments to the cam file. Over all it was pretty close, but I did have a epic fail on not having the interior tabs quite right on the interior nested pieces and ruined the small frame.

I'll post some pics of the setup and everything cut out on the table prior to removing the parts. I'm finding out real quick that the cad, cam, and set up is very time consuming. The nice thing is though once it's dialed it's fast to re-run existing job's. I just need to have shop drawings so I remember everything if it's not going to be run often.

I'm still going to do some videos, but like you said the editing takes some time and energy if anyone is going to watch it. So far I haven't put any effort into my videos and the view count show's the lack of effort.

Dan

[Ntl]

So here's a couple of pics of the second run of the frames. I still need to refine the program a little but no fails this time.

Got to say even though it was a pain to get dialed in the machine is cutting great!! And Centroid Acorn is so nice to work with it's better than I could have imagined.

I'm still working on putting together some videos.

Dan

[ericks]

Great work mate!!

[wmgeorge]

Very nice!!

[Ntl]

Thanks guys!

[Ntl]

Just wanted to post a photo carve I just did. Thanks again for the inspiration Jack I used the new vcarve pro photo carve tool path. I really like the new feature on vcarve, it's not as cool as halftone machining, but way faster and I still like the look of it.

[difalkner]

Nice job! What tooling did you use and how long did it take to cut?

David

[Ntl]

Nice job! What tooling did you use and how long did it take to cut?

David

Thanks David, it was done with just a Whiteside 60degree 1/4" vbit and it was about 2.5 hrs. The material is just under 24"x36" Vcarve estimated time was 3 hrs, but Centroid is always faster than the estimated times I've noticed. That was the second one I've cut, here's a pic of the first one I did. This one is the hatch path the first one I posted was raster. I really like the new feature it's a bit of a pain doing the masking and paint, but I'm sure I will find a better way of doing it to make it more efficient with more practice.