No worries I just figured I'd offer up the cut file.
Much appreciated, Dan. The open ends aren't bothering me. If I were to cover mine I would probably do it in Walnut with Maple stringing for accent.
David
David
Romans 3:23
CurlyWoodShop - www.etsy.com/shop/CurlyWoodShop
David Falkner - www.youtube.com/user/difalkner
difalkner - www.instagram.com/difalkner
No worries I just figured I'd offer up the cut file.
I WOULD HIGHLY NOT RECOMMEND FLA MACHINE TO ANYONE AT THIS POINT. I HAVE BEEN OUT AN ORDER FOR OVER A MONTH WITH ONLY TWO RESPONSES BOTH STATING MY ORDER WOULD BE SENT OUT. I TRIED TO HOLD OFF AS LONG AS I COULD BEFORE CONSIDERING TO MAKE A CLAIM AS EVERYONE HAS SAID GETTING YOUR ORDER MAY BE SLOW. DOING BUSINESS LIKE THIS ESPECIALLY WHEN SPENDING A LOT OF MONEY IS VERY UNACCEPTABLE. I REALLY HAD HIGH HOPES FOR THIS BUILD AND IS EVEN MORE AGGRAVATING WHEN I ALREADY DESIGNED AND BUILT A HEAVY DUTY STEEL FRAME FOR THIS PROJECT.
That sucks that you already built the stand. I take it you ordered a Saturn router. I would go out on a limb and say that it's possible that it's been delayed due to the issues that they are having with the binding and out of spec frames. You more than likely saved yourself some headaches.
I saw those before it looks good! I don't have a 3d printer so I just went with the aluminum and tapped the holes. How's your table holding up running it as a plasma and a router? Are you using it one way more than the other? Is it a massive pain every time you switch it over? I couldn't do it with mine since it would be a nightmare with my water cooled spindle. I'm just curious how it's working out for you since originally I was going to do the same thing but changed my mind.
i actually just built the stand for the standard kit but its probably more heavy duty than what nate offers for the saturn lol. It was mostly time put into the stand cutting and grinding and a few welds and not too much money besides screws and castor levelers since i got all my tube from something the toyota plant was throwing out.
I can change from spindle to plasma torch or back in about 15 minutes. If I need to plasma cut large items putting the large water table/tray in and filling it or draining it takes a bit longer. I plasma cut small parts (about 90% are smaller parts or brackets etc) by using small (20in round) pan and fill it with water and lay the metal sheet on top for cutting. I simply put a piece of plastic sheet over my spoil board when I use either water pan. So far use is about 60% plasma, 40% router. Mostly just depends on what project I'm working on that given week. I've had larger independent plasma and router machines, but being able to do both with one machine as a hobbyist is working perfect for me and has definitely freed up space.
How often do you use the machine? I'm just curious how the y axis bearings are holding up since my liniar rails aren't level or flat. I can't tighten the aluminum plates that attach to the bearing carrier's all the way or it preloads the bearings. Mine is essentially floating, and seems to be working fine but it's obviously not the right way to do it. I originally wasn't that worried about it since I was going to just shim in between the plate and the bearings, but when I ran a indicator down the rails I realized that they aren't flat and one side has a 0.03" low spot in the travel.
Like I was saying have you put a lot of hours on the machine yet? I'm just trying to find out if the issue is isolated to just a handful of machines or if it is just a handful of people have used the machine enough to notice the problem? The more I look at guys who have the routers I have noticed that alot of them are either still messing with getting them up and running or don't use them much since it's just a hobby for them. I'm just at a bit of a cross road on weather I should fix it now or just keep running it the way it is and hope the bearings hold up and I don't have issues with cut quality.
Thank you for any input you may have about your experience.
So here's some video of something new that I cut out. As well as a picture of the part after stain and seal.
More
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Last one https://youtu.be/HGo6vhoivpo
Very nice. So far my Mach3 is still working but this is the way to go.
1000x750 Workbee CNC - Mach4 - PMDX USB - Windows 10 Pro
Yeah I wouldn't change over either if it's working for you. At the end of the day if it's not broken why fix it. How did the probe work out for you? There's a Digitizing package that they have for my controller that I'm trying to find a reason to justify getting lol. But it would work for part setups, but I doubt it would really save any real time. I just think the probes are really cool and I'm curious how the hobby one's that we can afford work. No way I can afford the Centroid one even though apparently it's inexpensive as far as probes are concerned. Seems crazy to me but I guess for the guys who have mills that cost as much as homes in certain areas it makes sense.
Well done NTL. You are plowing through that learning curve.
Jack
Ponder Labs (https://tinyurl.com/y96aky5x)
Well the probe is just a NC switch that can be opened by a touch pressure, up or down or from any side. I do know know how the one for yours works, perhaps the same? Then you need software to set up a grid probe cycle and it saves the points it finds to a file. I think I paid $135 for mine.
The file created is a "point cloud" can can be converted to a 3D model.
1000x750 Workbee CNC - Mach4 - PMDX USB - Windows 10 Pro
Does the probe seem to work well? As for the software if I get a probe I'm going to get the digitizing add on from Centroid since it's designed for my controller. Hindsight I should have just done it from the beginning since it was only a extra $260 on top of what I paid. I just didn't think at the time I would ever use it. I'm just curious if it would be worth investing in, or if it's more of a novelty.
Thanks
Thank you and yes I'm finally starting to get a grasp on everything. It was very overwhelming learning everything all at once. Honestly now after getting more comfortable with everything I've come to realize that the best way to learn is by doing what we all did and just jump in headfirst and learn to swim. It's great that everyone on the forums are so helpful and try so hard to help fellow cnc owners out. I know I've been a pain at times due to some of the frustrations I've been dealing with on the machine.
I've still have a lot to learn, but at least I'm making parts and getting better at it. The design part is by far the most time consuming but also the most rewarding part.
Now I just have to fight the urge to install a ATC, since most of my designs use multiple tool changes and I would love to automate the process. It's just so hard to justify spending more money on the spindle than the router cost lol. I still can't understand why they cost so much money.
Dan
Kind of like waiting for paint to dry, however if you have a really hard part to draw or a hand carved item for example and wanted to duplicate there is a way with this. The Mach3 software for the probe and to convert the point cloud to a STL is free, and works. The Crafty CNC software is a step up for some types of probing and is only $15 more with the purchase of his probe.
1000x750 Workbee CNC - Mach4 - PMDX USB - Windows 10 Pro
So my new wireless MPG pendant is on the way. I will have a video up next week of it in action. I'm very excited since it's going to be nice for setting up job's. Here's a picture of it.