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  1. #241
    *Registered User* Ntl's Avatar
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    Default Re: New 2x4 Saturn build

    It's 0.125 from the face of the MDF to the top of the T-track, the T-track is 0.75x0.375 and I ran a 0.50 DOC for the pockets. I should get quite a few resurfaces out of it as long as I don't gouge the crap out of it when I'm cutting. I'm probably going to mount another piece of MDF to it when I'm cutting all the way through material since I don't want to trash the top since it was a lot of work. Either way the next one will faster since I have a template now, the only thing I'm not looking forward to is getting the T-track out and cleaned up the next time since I glued it down with the screws. I didn't want to take any chances of it pulling the screws out while cutting.

    For what it's worth it turned out exactly how I wanted it to, so if I have any issues it's my fault for a bad design. So far just clamping a few things down it seems like it will work great for what I need.

    Thanks for the compliment,
    Dan



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    Default Re: New 2x4 Saturn build

    I guessed wrong. Track is thinner than I thought - 3/8" vs 1/2".

    Dan,

    Another option is surface down to flush with the track, and cut strips of mdf for the next layer that just overlaps the track edges, but doesn't overlap into the slot. That way, you don't even need screws in the track. When you clamp a work piece down, you aren't pulling up on the track - more like compressing the last MDF layer between the work piece and the track. Works like a charm. I used through machine screws, but didn't need to.

    On through cuts, zero your cutter to the spoilboard. Then, raise the cutter by the nominal thickness of what your cutting (e.g. for playwood, 3/4" versus it actual thickness, which is thinner) and zero the z axis again at the nominal thickness height. On through cuts, you will never cut into your spoilboard, as long as your steps are set correctly and you accurately zero to the spoilboard. My spoilboard remained pristine. Try it. It works. Note: this only works for through cuts. If you are not cutting through, like with a 3d carving, setting to nominal thickness will screw up your carving. For non-through cuts, folks usually set zero at the top of the work piece.

    Gary



  3. #243
    *Registered User* Ntl's Avatar
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    Default Re: New 2x4 Saturn build

    Thanks Gary for the info I've been hearing that zeroing to the machine bed is the way to go for through cuts since like you said wood thickness varies quite a bit its not like a sheet of metal. I'm hoping that by the time I need to replace the spoil board I can afford to replace it with that aluminum t-slot plate that I was telling you about. Who knows, I'm just glad I'm finally almost done so I can stop working on the machine and start cutting parts with it. I didn't buy it to be a project since I have one of those sitting in the driveway, I bought it to make products. I can definitely see how guys can get caught up tinkering endlessly with these machines.

    Dan



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    Default Re: New 2x4 Saturn build

    Quote Originally Posted by Ntl View Post
    Thanks Gary for the info I've been hearing that zeroing to the machine bed is the way to go for through cuts since like you said wood thickness varies quite a bit its not like a sheet of metal. I'm hoping that by the time I need to replace the spoil board I can afford to replace it with that aluminum t-slot plate that I was telling you about. Who knows, I'm just glad I'm finally almost done so I can stop working on the machine and start cutting parts with it. I didn't buy it to be a project since I have one of those sitting in the drivewshay, I bought it to make products. I can definitely see how guys can get caught up tinkering endlessly with these machines.

    Dan
    Yeh, setting up these beasts can get pretty tedious and time consuming. For some, it's half the fun. For others, no so much. I like working on them, but I like making stuff more. I'm working on a 42" king salmon in Aspire (3d model) that's crying to be cut out just as soon as I get my latest CNC built. I also have some signs to cut and some beach themed stuff to make for some crafts fairs up and down the coast. The only competition is a fellow who makes signs with a handheld router and some templates. He makes nice things, but not nearly as nice as can be made on a CNC. I'm not looking to commit to a regular business, (I already retired from a pressure cooker job). but offsetting some of my tool and woodworking/metalworking costs and expenses would be nice. I might also consider commissions for larger specialty things, like the salmon or some classic sailboat half hulls (assuming I can get lofting plans at decent prices).

    You don't want to know how long it took me to finish my spoilboard, and I'm retired and can put in full days.. 1 layer of 3/4; 1 layer of 1/2"; and a 3rd layer of 3/4. The 3 layers were glued. I have a vacuum bagging system, but I couldn't use it on this project. The spoilboard would have been too bulky and heavy to glue and then wrestle into a polyurethane bag with breather mesh top and bottom. The glue would have dried before I got the ends of the bag closed and started pulling a vacuum.

    Gary



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