Fanuc series 21-M

[Se5a]

I’m all backed up so I guess I’m good as far as that goes. The memory I’ll just live with what it has and not store many programs in the control.


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[Se5a]

Got the new rails and bearing blocks installed for Y, indicated and square within a 10th.

The master is on the right





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[Se5a]

Ok back to the Fanuc 21/m control. To run in Mdi mode do the axis need to be zeroed or at their home positions?

I get nothing to run in mdi, not a movement or spindle run but I’m not at home position either so I don’t have a start ready light. I would think you should be able to command it from any position?

Thank you in advance for the help.


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[the_gentlegiant]

Nice going on the new rails. Always fun to see the underbelly of other machines. About the only concern I see with the install is the hole plugs. Not sure if they're plastic or metal or if you can remove them without wrecking them. Reason being is typically they should be mounted as flush to the top surface of the rail as possible. This is less damaging to the seals in the bearing trucks that have to pass over the holes thousands of times over their lifetime. If you were to delve deeply into the manufacturers literature you may find information along this line.

As to the MDI problem. If that Start Ready Light you speak of is the Machine Ready light under a different name, it's likely nothing can happen until the conditions that turn on that light are met. Which could be as simple as Zero Returning all the axis. I'm taking it that you're not getting a Message on the screen prompting you to Zero Return the machine when you try MDI-ing something. As far as needing to be at Home Position to use Mdi for any purpose, that is not the case. Once the machine is up and Ready, you can MDI anything at any time anywhere. That is if the machine is working properly.

[Se5a]

That makes sense, I have to get it to a ready state then I can either run a program or use the MDI function. I should have it all back together this week so I can zero it out.

I did get some new plugs with the rails but need a few more. I see McMaster Carr carries these THK rails and sells the plugs separate for about a buck each. I noticed if they sit below the rail junk starts to collect in that spot, good catch on noticing that, I’ll get it fixed.

Craig


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[the_gentlegiant]

Here's an example of the extent the manufacturer will go to aid in the longevity of their seal systems. These are also some THK rails I installed on a Mori Seiki machine a few years back. THK was the Mori OEM. The brass looking plugs were a special option that had to be ordered at the time of manufacture. I think because they would then not chamfer the bolt holes but leave sharp edges. I went straight to THK for the rails as Mori prices were off the charts. It took me a few weeks or more to draw the rails and trucks and come up with the monster part numbers that described the rails in their entirety. I also had to wait 3 months, which was fine as the whole machine was in pieces anyway.

Here's what I mean about the part number. (X axis) I think the QC at the end was about the special plugs. NR45 A 3 AAHH C0 +1920 SP II GC It's funny but the bearing trucks had custom cross drilled oil galleys feeding from the top center and extending out to an end cap. I copied it straight off the originals and included them in the drawings. TDK didn't say a thing and just made them to order. Obviously they'd seen it before, and is probably why it flew through without a hitch.

It took me many hours to install the plugs. Even needed to make a tool for it. Still they always wanted to peel a tiny sliver off the plugs that had to be carefully removed. The whole idea as I mentioned was to create as flat of a surface as possible. It wasn't easy.

I used some of the plastic plugs like you're ordering on other holes in the machine pallet clamp plate and rails. They haven't been lasting long as they tend to sit constantly in coolant.My coolant tends to upset their size and they end up coming out. I believe the original rails had the plastic plugs and most were still there at one level or another. They don't tend to sit in coolant and must be why they lasted as well as they did.

[Se5a]

Well that’s the way to do it. So you don’t grease the blocks you have an auto Oiler feeding them? I don’t see seals on the blocks or was this during assembly?


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[the_gentlegiant]

No what you see there are scraper plates which ride just barely off the tracks. For the big stuff I guess. Behind them are two different seals. The scraper plate and one seal were what the factory used. I figured while I'm ordering I'd update the seals from what they specified back in 97 when this thing was built. Those extra seals caused the trucks to be about 8-10mm longer then stock on each end. Wasn't a problem except on the rear Y blocks. I had to reroute or drill a new hole and add an extension to the stock oil input setup. And yes this machine uses an auto oiler.

[aaabbbccc123]

Got Um




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Hello,

Would you be so kind to get some pictures of the bottom right corner of the front pages, for the Fanuc 21MA series manuals. I'm desperately looking for them, and knowing the manual number (which looks like "B-" followed by five digits) would help. Or if easier, typing the numbers (e.g., for the description manual, the connections, and the parameters) would be appreciated.