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  1. #41
    Activation process everettengr's Avatar
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    Default Re: LCD Monitor

    you will not be disappointed. i wish i saw this thread when i purchased the mill, but glad i finally got rid of that old CRT.
    i assume the CRT should just be recycled? can't imagine anyone would want it...???



  2. #42
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    Default Re: LCD Monitor

    Hi folks, Well, my monitor arrived yesterday and I installed it yesterday. I went a different path on the install. I took the new monitor apart. Separated the connection board from the rear panel (a
    couple of screws held it in place). Then I just basically used silicone to hold the monitor in place. I used a piece of 1/2" square stock (between the monitor and keyboard) to keep it level and packing tape to hold the monitor in place, till the silicone cured. Here is the result.......

    LCD Monitor-img_20190716_165935535-jpg

    LCD Monitor-img_20190716_165945958-jpg

    LCD Monitor-img_20190716_165854129-jpg

    The silicone that you see in the second picture is actually original to the monitor. I was surprised to see it after I opened the back. It gave me the idea to use silicone to mount the monitor to the panel

    I'm really happy with this monitor. It was basically "plug and play" to install. Another plus is that it turns on when you start the machine. I initially thought I would have to press the monitor's power button on startup to turn it on.

    Btw, I bought the monitor on eBay. Total cost $68.00

    Lastly, thanks for a great thread !!!!!!

    pete


  3. #43
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    Default Re: LCD Monitor

    Looks good Pete. You must of found a really good deal on that one. I hadn't seen any near that price.
    Good job!

    Richard



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    Default Re: LCD Monitor

    Quote Originally Posted by rwskinner View Post
    Looks good Pete. You must of found a really good deal on that one. I hadn't seen any near that price.
    Good job!

    Richard
    It was an open box deal. I offered $40.00 and they accepted. But, they did charge me $23 shipping plus tax

    pete


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    Looks like a reasonable upgrade. Not interested in spending $700 on a Fadal one and the one you have could have a DVD player added while sitting and machining you can watch a movie, lol. Looks good anyways. We bought the 1000 lumen hdx led lights from Home Depot for $17 each and installed one on each side. On one of our cnc machines I wired it up to the coolant 2 switch since it wasn’t used and the second light to original switch so I can control them separately. Nice to have the light when needed and be able to shut it off when it’s not.


    Quote Originally Posted by icentropy View Post
    Ended up using this 12" one ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ). fit's just fine. I suppose a guy could probably jam a 13-14" one in there but even this 12" one makes the text PLENTY big. Already has the twist lock BNC connector so no adapters or anything like that needed and I bet the connector is also the reason this monitor shows the text rock solid and sharp instead of the issues other folks have been having with less than perfect images. Probably the adapters? I also went ahead and ordered a $25 50W LED light (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and replaced that old spotlight in there. The whole thing is crazy bright now. (almost too bright). My next step is figuring out why my Beacon light isn't working (by the way if anyone knows what i could check or if there's a fuse or relay for it I'd really appreciate the info). I want to put in a new one with a buzzer on it so i can hear when the machine finishes it's cycle.




  6. #46
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    I installed an LCD on my 4020 was easy retrofit works great.
    Also took out work light and replaced it with a 30w led from aliexpress.
    Changed out the axis thrust bearings and replaced them with pairs of proper ballscrew support bearings. They are preloaded with 350kg or so, no shim required and much higher load rating.
    Pics of all the parts i used attached.

    Quote Originally Posted by slowtwitch View Post
    Hi folks, Well, my monitor arrived yesterday and I installed it yesterday. I went a different path on the install. I took the new monitor apart. Separated the connection board from the rear panel (a
    couple of screws held it in place). Then I just basically used silicone to hold the monitor in place. I used a piece of 1/2" square stock (between the monitor and keyboard) to keep it level and packing tape to hold the monitor in place, till the silicone cured. Here is the result.......

    LCD Monitor-img_20190716_165935535-jpg

    LCD Monitor-img_20190716_165945958-jpg

    LCD Monitor-img_20190716_165854129-jpg

    The silicone that you see in the second picture is actually original to the monitor. I was surprised to see it after I opened the back. It gave me the idea to use silicone to mount the monitor to the panel

    I'm really happy with this monitor. It was basically "plug and play" to install. Another plus is that it turns on when you start the machine. I initially thought I would have to press the monitor's power button on startup to turn it on.

    Btw, I bought the monitor on eBay. Total cost $68.00

    Lastly, thanks for a great thread !!!!!!


    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails LCD Monitor-20191202_214901-jpg   LCD Monitor-screenshot_20200514-072655_aliexpress-jpg   LCD Monitor-screenshot_20200514-073156_aliexpress-jpg   LCD Monitor-screenshot_20191202-215255_ebay-jpg  



  7. #47
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    Default Re: LCD Monitor

    There are very cheap video signal adapters for sale on Ebay, less than £20 GDP, they are designed for use on the older non standard video standards that were used on early arcade machines and convert the signals to standard VGA. I have used one and they do work if you can figure out the "Chinglish" instructions. https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_f...apter&_sacat=0



  8. #48
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    Default Re: LCD Monitor

    Deano,
    How did those inexpensive preloaded ball screw support bearings work out for you?
    Any movement as in end play?

    Richard



  9. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by rwskinner View Post
    Deano,
    How did those inexpensive preloaded ball screw support bearings work out for you?
    Any movement as in end play?

    Richard
    That are great. Did all 3 axis. Better than I could ever get stuffing around with shims and 7304 ang contacts.
    They certainly didn't look cheap when they arrived . I have 24years in the bearing game and I was impressed.
    I just brought another 4020 and the z sounds a little crunchy so about to order another 3 pairs to have on hand. Could have brought some FAG ball screw supports from Europe but about 10x the price. So I took the punt on China's finest and they are good so far



  10. #50
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    Default Re: LCD Monitor

    Quote Originally Posted by Dyad1 View Post
    Hi Guys,
    Has anyone out there tried to replace the CRT monitor with a LCD monitor?
    Can it be done? If not how come? Maybe Neal can shed some light (pun
    not intended) on the subject.
    Thanks,
    Gary
    Here is an example of changing the CRT to LCD


    http://cncmakers.com/cnc/controllers/CNC_Controller_System/CNC_Retrofit_Package.html


  11. #51
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    Default Re: LCD Monitor

    Go to itscnc.com they have all Fadal parts including brand new LCD monitors for your fadal for around $600.00...



  12. #52
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    Default Re: LCD Monitor

    Quote Originally Posted by scruz View Post
    Go to itscnc.com they have all Fadal parts including brand new LCD monitors for your fadal for around $600.00...
    or..., you can purchase the monitor detailed in this thread and do it yourself for <$100.



  13. #53
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    Default Re: LCD Monitor

    Mine came in today. You're right, nice looking bearings.
    I take it these will load with the small inner races against each other or arrows like <> ?



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    Quote Originally Posted by rwskinner View Post
    Mine came in today. You're right, nice looking bearings.
    I take it these will load with the small inner races against each other or arrows like <> ?
    Yeah sounds right. Just like the original bearings just without the shims.



  15. #55
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    Default Re: LCD Monitor

    Now there are a lot of different monitors in the same China at a nice price. Especially if they are in stock in the USA, then you generally get a monitor for a penny, and there you already do what you want.



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    Those are nice with the varying font color but hard to justify the extra expense. I bought the Eyoyo from amazon for $80 and it is plug and play. Just installed today, no adjustments of any kind and if you leave the original Fadal 12v transformer in place you can power it right from that. Lettering is all white but at least I can see it now and that’s all that mattered to me.

    Quote Originally Posted by cncmakers001 View Post
    Here is an example of changing the CRT to LCD




  17. #57
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    I ended up installing mine from the backside. I do think it looks a little better initially on the front for reasons of the screen trim but it was really easy to use double sided 3m tape and then I put a strip of silicone approx 3” on each side for additional support as the tape tends to degrade over time. My eventual plan is to machine a aluminum bezel for the front and install it. I think when it’s cosmetically finished it will ultimately look cleaner having it more flush mount. It could be left as is if you don’t mind seeing the cutout of the pendant and 4 corner holes. I also wanted access to the buttons on front though if you didn’t care the factory trim could very well be reused with little modification. Far as the menu settings 4:3 will work fine for a large full screen view. If you don’t mind it being a little smaller and wanted to reuse the factory trim you can set it to auto mode and it will appear more like the factory screen with a little gap at the top and bottom to allow it to clear the bezel trim covering it.

    Quote Originally Posted by Dyad1 View Post
    Hi Guys,
    Has anyone out there tried to replace the CRT monitor with a LCD monitor?
    Can it be done? If not how come? Maybe Neal can shed some light (pun
    not intended) on the subject.
    Thanks,
    Gary


    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails LCD Monitor-image-jpg  


  18. #58
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    This is how it looks with the factory trim. At each corner you do have to Dremel approx .100 off the inside corners so they don’t push on the screen. I’m going to try it without the buttons and see if it matters to me. Maybe if the remote gets lost but for now it looks good. The screen probably could’ve been lowered on the inside. If you don’t care about the buttons and you make sure the pendant face isn’t pressing them then lowering is no big deal and it will fit more centered in the frame. It’s completely cosmetic so if it doesn’t bother its easy and works. Takes approx 10-15 minutes for complete install if no second guessing and you know what you’re doing. Shouldn’t take more than 45 minutes taking your time and drinking a beer.

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails LCD Monitor-image-jpg  


  19. #59
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    Figured I may as well show anyone else interested how to reuse the Fadal crt power supply. It’s fairly straight forward. You will need some standoffs and be sure to reuse the grounding points. Make sure any grounds you disconnected that they are reused. Basically I drilled and tapped 4 mounting holes and used some Teflon standoffs that I had in a drawer. The blue wire going to the other board transistor is not used. I put a dab of hot glue on it to seal it up after trimming it flush. The red and black will go to your 12v connector. I used some futaba connectors to attach each pigtail together since I was out of small diameter heat shrink. I also had a 12v Arduino pig tail so I didn’t have to cut the one off the supplied power supply and can keep that for another project down the road. That’s really all you need to do and the monitor turns on and off with machine or the video on/off switch. One thing to mention is that the IR sensor is blocked when you cover the buttons. You will have to find your own solution if you plan to hide the panel buttons. I drilled a 1/4” hole through the trim piece so the remote will still work however it only has approx 30” of use and it does have to be fairly straight to the hole. You could probably cut out a 1” wide oval and glue an IR screen to the backside of it is a bother to you. Don’t matter to me I don’t mind since I’m going to be standing in front of the pendant any time I might change source for one reason or another. Who knows might not use the features much to justify keeping it enabled. Ultimately how you want to use it will dictate what you need to know. Now you know the install alternatives and can choose for yourself. Also, If for some reason your Fadal transformer is bad you will have to use the monitor provided power supply and probably string it back through to the rear cabinet to get to a 120v source.

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails LCD Monitor-image-jpg   LCD Monitor-image-jpg   LCD Monitor-image-jpg  


  20. #60
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    Default Re: LCD Monitor

    I used the same monitor. I removed the back and discarded then mounted the electronics to the back of the LCD display.
    I made 4 little 90 deg. L brackets from aluminum 1/2" wide and each leg was 1/2" long and had a 6-32 hole drilled and tapped in it.
    The L brackets mounted to the front of the pendant and allows the top edge and bottom of the bezel to screw to the brackets.

    I used the 4 pin 120 volt connector for the new brick power supply that came with the monitor. Everything turned out clean and worked well.
    Nice crisp image. Way better than the old LCD that was in there.

    LCD Monitor-img_1312-jpgLCD Monitor-img_1314-jpgLCD Monitor-img_1313-jpg

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails LCD Monitor-img_1313-jpg   LCD Monitor-img_1314-jpg   LCD Monitor-img_1312-jpg  


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