Originally Posted by
Cfin
UPDATE: Finally got around to attempting this job, having got some 4" iron risers blocks cast 6 months ago. I machined the blocks and drilled the bolt holes, then sent them out to get surface ground ... in an effort to have them identical. I planned to lift some of the roof off above the machine and getting a small crane in to do the lifting, but then thought I would try lifting it with two squat jacks.... which worked brilliantly.
I removed the bolts that attach the rear sheet metal covers to the column, the Y axis slide cover to column and the tool changers cover plate that bolts to the rear wall. I had to cut a small section of sheet metal off directly above the tool changer, as the changer is attached to, and raises with, the Z axis column .... but the sheet metal box of course stays in its original location. I also removed a cover on top of the electronics cabinet, that covers the wiring going to the operator pendant, so I could keep an eye on wiring getting snagged. Thats about it as far as preparation goes. I was going to remove the Y axis motor so I could position the jacks under the center of the Z column but the jacks were short enough to fit either side of that motor, so I left it mounted on the base.
I then put some wood blocks on the table and another jack on top on them ... to help balance/control the weight of the head and tool changer. But this proved to be unnecessary and once the column started rising, I removed that jack. I removed the original column to base bolts one at a time and replaced them with the 4" longer bolts, positioned the jacks under column's inner casting (the casting closest to the table), put some wedges on top of the jacks on one side, as the underside of the column is not flat ... and started jacking.
Much to my surprise the column parted and lifted easily, it rose virtually straight up (hence not needing the third jack under the head), the longer bolts keeping things straight as it went. I raised it an inch at a time, putting some 1" blocks between column and base at each stage, so I could go check that nothing was getting caught up It didn't take long to get it up the 4" needed, then removed the column bolts on one side, slipped in the riser block on that side and put the bolts back in .... then repeated the process on the other side of the column.
There was epoxy between base and column but it remained in place though-out the process, plus two 0.001" shims that the factory had put in there. I did not need to "dimple" the riser blocks .... if there was a dimple on the columns mounting face, the epoxy had covered it, so both column and base surfaces were flush.
So all in all .... it was ridiculously easy to do. The only "problem" I encountered was a small sensor cable (upper column limit sensor I think) that had been tucked down between the box sheet metal and the electronics cabinet, but I spotted it was getting caught before it damaged it. Now I just need to add 4" to the Y axis way cover mount and re-drill the holes for the rear box sheet metal to column bolts which unfortunately I may have to remove those rear panels to do that and move the Z axis CS indicator..... plus do some checks that everything is straight and plum ....probably the biggest part of the job !!
The strangest part about it all is the fact that both rear cabinets are now 4" higher and will have to re-train myself to the power lever and start buttons new positions !!