Looking at buying a Fadal - Page 3


Page 3 of 3 FirstFirst 123
Results 25 to 33 of 33

Thread: Looking at buying a Fadal

  1. #25
    Registered
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    United States
    Posts
    1334
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default Re: Looking at buying a Fadal

    I looked at the parts break down then climbed back up there and yes, there are hydraulic boosters up there so that answers that question....
    Thanks for the help.

    Richard


    Quote Originally Posted by mmurray70 View Post
    Sounds like you have the hydraulic idler cylinders, which makes sense on the HT. On my 10hp machine, I have air only, and the stock cylinders are only single acting (one port, spring return). Im not too sure on the exact details of the hydraulic system, just know the HT machines have it and unfortunately my machine dont lol. It is supposed to be air/hydraulic, meaning no hydraulic pumps or anything, just a small air/hydraulic booster unit somewhere on the head. Follow the lines and im sure you will find it. I didnt realize the retract port was air, but that makes sense, would make for a cheaper system. Id try and find this booster unit and cheak fluid level.

    Your spindle should be grease packed so only fluids in the machine are way oil, hydraulic fluid in this booster for idlers, and coolant in the chiller. Note that the chiller uses a special type of coolant, not regular antifreeze.

    Ok thats great that you have the cable carrier, maybe somebody already added it on your machine. Thats one pain in the ass job you wont have to deal with.




  2. #26
    Registered
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    United States
    Posts
    1334
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default Re: Looking at buying a Fadal

    I was slightly worried when I saw the table had been surfaced. I can see the step in all four corners where they didn't go all the way to the end.
    I figured they did it because of the worn turcite or something, but early this morning, I measured the step in all 4 corners and there was 0.050" removed from the table and all four corners were within 0.002" of each other.
    I don't know about you all, but I *think* that may be a positive sign that possibly the table was cleaned up from a boo boo and not surfaced to tram it in from the turcite being worn. Who knows.

    Found tubing line off the Y axis ball nut.

    Still cleaning....

    Richard



  3. #27
    Registered
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    United States
    Posts
    1334
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default Re: Looking at buying a Fadal

    Does anyone know where I could get a lubrication schematic for this 94 model 4020? One that shows which manifold position goes to which point so I can make sure it's plumbed correctly.
    I didn't see anything in the online documents and the parts book, well, not very detailed at all.

    Richard



  4. #28
    Registered
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    United States
    Posts
    1334
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default Re: Bought a Fadal 4020.....

    Hummm, so the front way covers for the Y axis come off by of course removing the bolts to the table then running the table back then locating 2 brackets mounted to the front of the base right in front of the Y+ ways. Remove 2 bolts on each side and the heavy ass way covers come off. You don't know to look there until you dig all the chips out.

    Here is what my Y ways look like. Pictures aren't the best as it's kind of dark in there right now.
    Look pretty decent to me, no scoring, nice and shiny! No scotchbrite taken to it yet.

    Ahh, the table is exactly in plane with the ways according to my 12" Starrett precision level. With the Y axis ways level in both directions the table is level in both directions


    Looking at buying a Fadal-img_2011-jpg

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Looking at buying a Fadal-img_2011-jpg  


  5. #29
    Registered
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    United States
    Posts
    1334
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default Re: Looking at buying a Fadal

    Oh, the Baldor VFD say my input voltage is 380 volts and I checked the line going to the VFD and its, 240, 240, 259.
    I figure it would auto detect the input voltage like all my other VFD's but clearly it's not seeing that. Is there a parameter list for this VFD?

    Looking in the spindle inverter manuals it only show how to auto tune, nothing about the other parameter list. I could look on the Baldor site I guess, but I only have the Fadal part number for the VFD.

    RIchard



  6. #30
    Registered
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    United States
    Posts
    1334
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default Re: Looking at buying a Fadal

    This machine has a Calmotion USB to Serial adapter. I haven't tried to use it yet but I'm in the process of cleaning up the rats nest in the control box.
    So they had a 3 way switch in there that allowed you to use the DB25 serial directly, or the Calmotion USB, or WiFi Serial Server by Moxa. Cool, but it was a mess and half ass done.

    I really only need the Calmotion USB device. Here is a weird homemade looking cable from the Calmotion adapter box to the serial cable going to the Fadal communications card. Any clue what it is or why it's homemade looking?
    Is it maybe a null modem adapter with the RTS and CTS jumped? If so, why with Diodes?

    So the DB25 cable from the Calmotion box to a IDC ribbon cable with connects to this adapter, then another IDC to 25 connection to the fadal 25 pin to the comm card.

    Looking at buying a Fadal-serial-jpg

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Looking at buying a Fadal-serial-jpg  


  7. #31
    Registered
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    United States
    Posts
    1334
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default Re: Looking at buying a Fadal

    I hate to start a new thread so I will keep this one going. Hopefully I'm not talking to myself.

    Progress made.
    Dumped 10 gallons of diesel in coolant system and using the wash down gun to flush all the nasty crap out of the machine.
    It seems to be cutting all the oily sticky coolant and making it wash off pretty good.

    Cleaned out the lube tank and added fresh way oil. Can't really tell if its doing its thing so I removed the Vactra #2 and added diesel in there and trying to flush it out real good. Hopefully I avoid another $660 on manifold assemblies!

    Good news, I found out I have a 4020HT with Extended Z. Nice. None of the options on the parameters sheet behind the pendant are checked. Strange.
    The ways look good, All the turcite I could see on the X and Z looks fine, so far. Dial indicator on the table shows less than 0.0002" on the X for the full travel and a little less on the Y.

    It's level, I got the tool change height all set and did several tool changes. I checked the tram and the Tram is out by 0.005" from side to side and also from front to back.
    Guess I have to look and see how to take that out. front to back could be head nod, but I didn't see a way to adjust side to side but I hadn't looked hard yet.

    So, the backlash is still pretty bad. I put a DTI on the end of the X and Y ball screw and there is less than 0.0005" in the thrust. I guess this probably means its all in my ball screws. The X is not too bad and can wait some but the Y and Z are pretty bad. I hadn't checked the thrust on the z yet.

    Rapids sound pretty good and smooth. Using the MPG set at 0.010" and moving the X and Z, I can hear some squeaking. Not sure if its the DC motors or the bearings yet.
    I guess I could pull the servos and run them back and forth and see if they squeak. GlenTeks DC servos is what's installed.

    Any decent places that can rebuild the screws and nuts? Let me know please.



  8. #32
    Registered
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    canada
    Posts
    359
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default Re: Looking at buying a Fadal

    Quote Originally Posted by rwskinner View Post
    So, the backlash is still pretty bad. I put a DTI on the end of the X and Y ball screw and there is less than 0.0005" in the thrust. I guess this probably means its all in my ball screws. The X is not too bad and can wait some but the Y and Z are pretty bad. I hadn't checked the thrust on the z yet.

    Rapids sound pretty good and smooth. Using the MPG set at 0.010" and moving the X and Z, I can hear some squeaking. Not sure if its the DC motors or the bearings yet.
    I guess I could pull the servos and run them back and forth and see if they squeak. GlenTeks DC servos is what's installed.

    Any decent places that can rebuild the screws and nuts? Let me know please.
    Check your couplers on your ballscrews. They are known to wiggle loose and this would explain a ton of backlash with good thrust bearings. Also its better to follow the procedure in the manual and make a program to check backlash, using the mpg can show more backlash due to stick/slip of box ways. I wouldn't expect major changes though, your still going to be way out of spec.

    If your ballscrews are bad, they are not terribly hard to re-ball them if your fairly mechanically inclined. I re-balled my Y and Z (interesting that your 94 is bad on the same two axes) and it made a huge improvement for next to nothing in terms of cost. I lucked out into needing nominal size 3/16 balls for my Z axis and got them from mcmaster for like $6. And for the Y axis I bought oversize 1/4" balls in several sizes from winter engineering. I was dealing with a guy in Ontario Canada and he was great, they also have a branch in California. He also had very reasonable rates on rebuilds but I choose to do it my self to minimize shipping cost (crazy here in Canada) and downtime. My Z axis turned out like new, felt great right through the whole travel. Y axis was pretty good to. No measurable backlash anywhere, but there was noticeably less preload in the middle of the travel meaning the screw was starting to wear a little. Still not enough to affect accuracy on the machine.



  9. #33
    Registered
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    canada
    Posts
    359
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default Re: Looking at buying a Fadal

    If you still have the waycovers off, try rotating the Y axis screw by hand while servo is holding it to see if theres any play in it. You could easily feel movement in the couplers on mine.



Page 3 of 3 FirstFirst 123

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  


About CNCzone.com

    We are the largest and most active discussion forum for manufacturing industry. The site is 100% free to join and use, so join today!

Follow us on


Our Brands

Looking at buying a Fadal

Looking at buying a Fadal