Reply with Quote60 views and no info???
Do i need to post more detail?
pictures?
Its 220...
Wiring issues...enco lathe
Hi all, Thanks for the massive knowledge base here. I'll be sure to help when I can but I need some help myself.
I have an Enco lathe Model:110-2032, MFG Date: 1992-1
I had to replace the belts and the motor starting capacitor. Once it was all back together I found issues.
Seem to be in the control circuit.
The drum switch does not turn motor on in either direction.
The emergency switch works properly.
When i press and hold either of the motor relay buttons it operates flawless.
Upon further investigation I found the relay does not click open and closed.
I checked DCV coming out of the bridge rectifier and it only gives 6.54.
The relay is an OMRON type F MY2...listed as 12v but says 24v on the coil inside...
I replaced the bridge rectifier with the exact same replacement part and I still only get 6.54 DCV.
If I jump the relay connectors the drum switch it still does not operate correctly.
I searched all over the web and can not find schematics, at least not for this specific model.
Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.
I have pictures and can post all details asked of.
Thanks again...
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60 views and no info???
Do i need to post more detail?
pictures?
Its 220...
Pictures are always appreciated.
Also how big is this lathe? I would post this in the general electronics section and see if you get a response.Is this a manual Enco 13 x 40? Are you energizing the circuit initially with the momentary switch that activates the main contactor?
Another thing, I wouldnt trust a Chinese wiring diagram. They leave a bit to be desired even when they are correct, which they usually arent.
Have you been to Yahoo groups? They are pretty active on the manual machines.
Thanks fast!
MOD please move to the right spot. Apologize for putting it in the wrong one.
Its a manual lathe. I'll check out the yahoo groups.
Not saying it was in the wrong place necessarily. Just some areas of the forum get more attention.
A lazy man does it twice.
Wiring issues...enco lathe
A lazy man does it twice.
Thats the first one I went to. Still waiting on the "approval" and thanks again. I don't know everything so finding knowledge bases are always a good start.Originally Posted by Fastest1
This is most likely a bad contractor, look up the model number of contractor and determine coil voltage probably 120vac. Attempt to activate coil remotely. If this fails the coil is bad. I have an Enco lathe slightly older and had to rebuild control box with new contractor.
Hope this helps
What exactly is the part you consider a contractor? Do you mean contactor? In the relay right?
The AC is converted to DC via bridge rectifier and this power goes directly to the coil in the relay.
I don't understand what you are talking about....please elaborate for me.
Wiring issues...enco lathe
There is a large rectangular block with many contacts (8?), some would mistake for a relay. In a sense it is. It has a latching feature (why I asked you if you had used the momentary switch to activate the contactor). This block controls all of the circuits as it enters the machine. Hitting the E stop, interrupts the latch and stop all electric flow. It does have a mechanical test bar. Pics to follow.
Yours might be a little different but it will be similar (probably black/brown if like my original)
I rebuilt my electronics right upon purchase as the motor was fried. I bought an 3PH motor and a VFD and replaced it all. Yours runs a DC motor?It has been a while since I did that and dont remember what I removed.
If the contactor coil is rated for 24vdc and you are getting a fraction of this right at the output of the rectifier or bridge then you need to see what the AC side is reading, as this appears to be your problem.
Make sure you test the voltage with nothing connected or no load.
Al.
CNC, Mechatronics Integration and Custom Machine Design
“Logic will get you from A to B. Imagination will take you everywhere.”
Albert E.
As others shared, a contactor is just a large relay. These are meant to carry high current through much larger relay contacts. There is a coil side and and output side. Depending on your machine you often find two contactors in the control box. When the drum switch is moved to foward it provides voltage to the coil of one contactor and when it is rotated to reverse it provides coil voltage to the second contactor. The contactors are wired in such a way that the motor reverses with one contactor and goes foward with the other contactor. It appears you have a contactor with a 24V coil. You said when you hold the motor relay button the motor works flawlessly. Do you mean the moving element on the contactor. If so this again points to the contactor or the voltage source to the contactor being bad. First put a DC volt meter across the coil connections for the contactor and move the drum switch. If you see 24VDC on the coil and it does not move then you have a bad contactor. If you do not see any voltage on the coil connections when you move the switch you need to trace back the 24VDC source to see if it is still working.
Hope this helps.
Yes. I meant I push and hold the test bar on the contactor which makes the motor work flawlessly.
I'll check the DCV to the contactor coils.
I'm certain the system is AC though so regardless I'll check for the proper Voltage and for continuity at the coils.
The only DC part seems to be the DPDT relay which is powered by the bridge rectifier.
Thanks for bringing me up to speed with the proper name of the part.
Last edited by farshot83; 02-05-2014 at 09:41 AM.
I'm a little confused with some of your details, you mention a drum switch, which usually precludes a contactor, because the Omron MY2 series of relays are just signal or control relays, not really suitable for motor switching?
If in fact you do have a contactor and a drum switch then this may be for reversing feature with a single contactor.
Either way, if it works when you push the contactor armature in, then confirm the coil voltage and AC or DC?
Al.
CNC, Mechatronics Integration and Custom Machine Design
“Logic will get you from A to B. Imagination will take you everywhere.”
Albert E.
I'm confused to. lol
Power in from 220 to a transformer,
transformer to the two contactors, breaker, bridge rectifier, relay...
When I use jumper to bypass the relay it doesn't activate the coil in either of the contactors.
You need to trace the circuit with a meter from the 24vac output of the transformer to whatever is picking up the reverser coils.
Presumably the over load beneath the Cont. has not tripped?
There is a reset button on it.
It shouldn't take much to trace, reverse engineer and document the coil circuit.
Al.
CNC, Mechatronics Integration and Custom Machine Design
“Logic will get you from A to B. Imagination will take you everywhere.”
Albert E.
I will trace and get back to you. It did not trip.
Thanks for helping me out here.
If a contactor is bad should I just rebuild the whole box? This setup seems to be outdated.
It looks basically OK you could fit a newer style contactor and O/L such as the more compact Telemecanique DIN style reverser etc.
Al.
CNC, Mechatronics Integration and Custom Machine Design
“Logic will get you from A to B. Imagination will take you everywhere.”
Albert E.
Those two contactors that are next to each other look like they were once wired for a three phase motor. You will not two of the wires running between the motors are reversed which is what causes the motor to change directions when one contactor fires versus the other one. Like Al said you need to trace the wires on the coil side. My guess is the coil on both contactors is bad. I am looking for the schematic I put together but it would be very close to what you have based on that picture. Will post it if I can find where I put it on the computer.
