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Thread: Tree325 Retrofit Started

  1. #21
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    Default Re: Tree325 Retrofit Started

    Specs dont show 3 phase input as an option, but many drives will work on single phase at a lower capacity anyway. Take a look at this: https://www.google.ca/url?sa=t&rct=j...3PSRkzt0z-w6vI I did look at the specs of your drive and saw something about "input phase detection". That could possibly be a sign of a deal breaker, but i would certainly check into it to find out for sure. There is an awesome VFD forum on practical machinist website. If you posted there im sure someone could tell you for sure if this would work with your drive. If its not possible for some reason, yeah makes more sense to use phase converter then replace it. Try and post pic of Spindle motor tag, thats what i was wondering about.

    If you still want to use original drives you should use the original power supply too. Half of your power supply is actually located on the servo drive chassis (rectifier and capacitor). The other parts are the really big transformer which takes 230vac and drops it down to 72VAC and the small transformer to the right of your servo drives takes 230VAC and steps it down to 115VAC. Both these voltages (the 72VAC and 115VAC) are what power the servo drive chassis and servo drives. These voltages connect to the screw terminal on the right hand side of the servo drive chassis. 72VAC goes to screw 9 and 10 and 115VAC goes to screw 11 and 12. So really in terms of power supply all you need to do is get 230 VAC to both these transformers, and your servo drive chassis is all powered up. This 230 is a single phase. Can be one of the 3 phases or a single phase only supply. All the factory wiring to supply these transformers should be able to be reused without much or any modification. There is a contactor switching the big transformer on and off, you will have to figure that out to get 72VAC out.

    These posts are only suggestions, please double check everything and be safe. I cant tell everything 100% just from a few pics and honestly im not an electrical expert anyway. But just trying to help the best way i can. Good luck with it.



  2. #22
    Community Moderator Jim Dawson's Avatar
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    Default Re: Tree325 Retrofit Started

    The servo drives appear to be Servo Dynamics 1225 or 1560 (I think those are the correct part numbers, going from my poor memory here) My machine has the same drives and servo motors. I have the pinouts for the drives if you need them. TomKerekes is correct on the command signal wiring if those are SD drives.

    All of the servo system and controls should be supplied from 2 legs of the 3 phase input, thus single phase. The servo supply transformer should be powered up by an OPTO22 solid state relay that is controlled by the control circuit. They used these OPTO22 SSRs because they have zero crossing turn on and thus mitigate the inrush current somewhat. On my machine, the entire control panel plugs into a 120V outlet on the wall. The wiring to the VFD/spindle motor is totally separate. I also just went through a BP retrofit that has a control panel that looks pretty much like yours.

    The only things on that machine that should be 3 phase are the spindle and possibly the coolant pump. According to the documentation on the Automation Direct website the GS3 2010 requires 3 phase input. But I don't know if supplying it with single phase would throw an error. Some 3 phase input VFDs will work if you connect one single phase leg to L1, the other single phase leg to L2, and put a jumper between L2 and L3. Try this at your own risk, I have never done it.

    I can't help with the Dynomotion stuff, but Tom is an expert on that. But maybe I can be of some help with the servo wiring.

    Jim Dawson
    Sandy, Oregon, USA


  3. #23
    Member PeterTheWolf's Avatar
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    Default Re: Tree325 Retrofit Started

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    ....

    Just an update. I tried bring this machine up today with the 3-phase rotary converter with all the existing electronics/design.
    The machined powered up; however, I got no CRT (monitor screen), it just stay black. I was able to see the yellow color flash when I turned it off and on via the control switch side on.

    I did find 11 of 12 Tree 325 schematic pages of the original design. I trust this will help in this retrofit. These Tree schematics can be view: Here
    I am missing page 10, so if someone has page 10 of the Tree schematics, and if someone is willing to share, can you please PM me with it.
    I am hoping they will help those that are willing to me.
    .....
    .......

    Last edited by PeterTheWolf; 10-07-2017 at 09:24 PM.


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    Default Re: Tree325 Retrofit Started

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    Tom,

    After doing what I could to figure out how to test these motors according to your suggestion ... I am still unsure how to go about this. Please correct me in my understanding this test.

    The “Velocity Command” wires coming from the Kanalog is the +/- 10 volts applied to the amplifier and the amplifier has some gain to increase the voltage which is what is applied to the server motor to make it move. Now I am not sure what the gain of the amplifier is.
    So, if I were to use a simple 12 volt car battery for this test, then I would need to apply a resister in series between the positive side battery lead and the Red velocity command lead such that I would be applying, let’s say, 8 volts. Since this is DC, this voltage being applied at these two leads would also provide the amplifier with the needed current to move the motor? So I am not sure what size resister to use. How much current should I being calculating for?

    .....
    ......


    Quote Originally Posted by TomKerekes View Post
    Hi Peter,

    Here is my guess at where the Velocity Command Input to the amplifiers is:

    Attachment 374570

    Regards




  5. #25
    Member PeterTheWolf's Avatar
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    Default Re: Tree325 Retrofit Started

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    mmurray70,

    I was going through the Tree 325 Schematics and tracing the power supplies today. I see exactly what you stated below. Except for the servo drive chassis (rectifier and capacitor) being half of the servo motor's power supply.
    I now want to start removing what I don't need since I am going to be using the Dynomotion Kflop / Kanalog boards on this machine.

    Steps:

    1.) My first step is remove the servo drive chassis. But now that you mentioned that this is half of the power supply for the servo motors I am now confused again.
    Wouldn't I be able to disconnect the six connectors in this pictures and then remove the drive boards and still have the power supply I need for the motors and the Kanalog borads?
    And maybe remove the fans too.

    Tree325 Retrofit Started-023_sm_removed-jpg


    Quote Originally Posted by mmurray70 View Post
    ...

    If you still want to use original drives you should use the original power supply too. Half of your power supply is actually located on the servo drive chassis (rectifier and capacitor). The other parts are the really big transformer which takes 230vac and drops it down to 72VAC and the small transformer to the right of your servo drives takes 230VAC and steps it down to 115VAC. Both these voltages (the 72VAC and 115VAC) are what power the servo drive chassis and servo drives. These voltages connect to the screw terminal on the right hand side of the servo drive chassis. 72VAC goes to screw 9 and 10 and 115VAC goes to screw 11 and 12. So really in terms of power supply all you need to do is get 230 VAC to both these transformers, and your servo drive chassis is all powered up. This 230 is a single phase. Can be one of the 3 phases or a single phase only supply. All the factory wiring to supply these transformers should be able to be reused without much or any modification. There is a contractor switching the big transformer on and off, you will have to figure that out to get 72VAC out.
    .....

    .




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    Default Re: Tree325 Retrofit Started

    Quote Originally Posted by PeterTheWolf View Post
    ....
    ....

    mmurray70,

    I was going through the Tree 325 Schematics and tracing the power supplies today. I see exactly what you stated below. Except for the servo drive chassis (rectifier and capacitor) being half of the servo motor's power supply.
    I now want to start removing what I don't need since I am going to be using the Dynomotion Kflop / Kanalog boards on this machine.

    Steps:

    1.) My first step is remove the servo drive chassis. But now that you mentioned that this is half of the power supply for the servo motors I am now confused again.
    Wouldn't I be able to disconnect the six connectors in this pictures and then remove the drive boards and still have the power supply I need for the motors and the Kanalog borads?
    And maybe remove the fans too.

    Tree325 Retrofit Started-023_sm_removed-jpg
    Dont remove the servo drive chassis. You need to keep everything in this picture, and leave drive boards on that chassis. Yes, the servo drive chassis is also part of your power supply. Servo drives need DC power, and your machine only sends AC to the servo drive chassis. There is a rectifier buried somewhere in that servo drive chassis that converts AC to DC and that huge capacitor filters and stores the DC power that is used by the servo drives. Most small DC power supply's consist of a transformer, rectifier and capacitor all in one unit, but in your case the transformer is separate and the rest of the components are on the servo drive chassis. My Fadal works the same way.

    All the wiring on the right terminal servo drive chassis will stay just as it is. Bottom four wires are AC power input to servo drive chassis. The other 6 wires are the 3 pairs of power wires to servos based on your schematic. Note that your Y motor connections are in pin 7 and 8 instead of 3 and 4 like shown in manual. Im guessing your Y axis drive was originally in the empty place between Z and X (which uses pin 3 and 4) and somebody moved it to the end for some reason. Or maybe the machine came with a 4th axis drive installed and the Y drive died and the 4th was used instead. Dont worry about this, its fine the way it is, just pointing this out in case the mismatch is confusing.

    The three bottom connectors (red ovals around them) will also stay just as they are, without needing to be touched at all. Pretty sure anyway. Only thing you will be modifying will be the top connectors (circled in red). This is shown in page 5 of schematic. Pin 1 and 2 is where you will be sending input signal from Kanalog as Tom said earlier. The other wires in this connector are for the tach (this will stay) and a reset according to manual. Im not sure what reset does. So really to get things moving, all you need to do is figure out that contactor for the transformer to output 72 VAC, and connect Kanalog outputs to pin 1 and 2 of each drive. These two pins are also where you apply the test voltage Tom mentioned. I think you are supposed to use a AA battery and a resistor. Do a search or wait for Tom to post specific details. No need to connect a car battery.

    Edit: I said this is all you need to do to get things moving, but of course you will need encoder signals to Kanalog too. This is the only mods you have to do to drives to get moving anyway.



  7. #27
    Member PeterTheWolf's Avatar
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    Default Re: Tree325 Retrofit Started

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    Ok ... I had to go back and re-read what Tom wrote earlier in this thread:

    "Testing_Analog_Amplifiers"

    I will try this ... now that I better understand.

    Question though: In this test will the servo motor removed from the machine? Or can a 1.5V battery in series with a 1K Ohm resistor really move the X-axis (saddle) servo motor at 15% of its speed?

    ....
    ....


    Quote Originally Posted by PeterTheWolf View Post
    ....
    ....

    Tom,

    After doing what I could to figure out how to test these motors according to your suggestion ... I am still unsure how to go about this. Please correct me in my understanding this test.

    The “Velocity Command” wires coming from the Kanalog is the +/- 10 volts applied to the amplifier and the amplifier has some gain to increase the voltage which is what is applied to the server motor to make it move. Now I am not sure what the gain of the amplifier is.
    So, if I were to use a simple 12 volt car battery for this test, then I would need to apply a resister in series between the positive side battery lead and the Red velocity command lead such that I would be applying, let’s say, 8 volts. Since this is DC, this voltage being applied at these two leads would also provide the amplifier with the needed current to move the motor? So I am not sure what size resister to use. How much current should I being calculating for?

    .....
    ......




  8. #28
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    Default Re: Tree325 Retrofit Started

    Well the 1.5v battery and resistor is just creating a signal to move. The drives obviously need to be powered up from the power supply and the power to move comes from there. So yes the 1.5v battery should certainly move the machine. Be careful to start with axis in middle and avoid running out of travel and hitting stops.



  9. #29
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    Default Re: Tree325 Retrofit Started

    ....
    ....Yes … I see that. As I got nothing doing this test with the machine power off. So I tried it with the machined powered up. I still got nothing. So, in my ignorance, I thought I would get out the machine’s schematics I posted here, and give them a look over. Reading these things does not come easy for me at this time … as I have very little experience doing so. However, I am into this retrofit by $1700 and I have a discouraging long way to go.
    In any case, on page 1 (Frame D28) there a “1CON” relay. And I can see that this goes to the Axes Drive Chassis at #11 (hot side) and #12. When I power up the machine I do not hear this 1CON relay engage, so I assume I still have no power to servo motors during this test. Since I have no CRT when I power this machine up I have no way of referencing the axis and so closing all the necessary coils (1CRE & 12CRE) and/or satisfying other components to bring in this relay. So I manually pushed the relay in by hand with the power on and the 1.5V / 1K Ohm resistor in place on the X-axis and the axis actually moved in the negative X-axis direction (saddle moved to the right from the front of the machine). However, I tried reversing the leads on the battery and re-pushed the relay in and the axis moved in the same direction (saddle moved to the right from the front of the machine). So I am confused why the axis did not move in the opposite direction when I reverse the 1.5V battery leads. As Tom suggested it should. Is it because I disengaged the 1CON relay, switch battery leads , and then re-engaged the relay?
    Question: Is it advised to test each axis with this Amplifier Test before moving on to my next step in this retrofit? If so, I will have to move the ball screws by hand to get the Y & Z axis off their limits before testing since I will not know exactly which way it will move.

    ....
    .....

    Tree325 Retrofit Started-039_x-axisamplifiertest-jpg





    Quote Originally Posted by mmurray70 View Post
    Well the 1.5v battery and resistor is just creating a signal to move. The drives obviously need to be powered up from the power supply and the power to move comes from there. So yes the 1.5v battery should certainly move the machine. Be careful to start with axis in middle and avoid running out of travel and hitting stops.




  10. #30
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    Default Re: Tree325 Retrofit Started

    Hi Peter,

    You are doing it backwards. You disconnected the connections from the motor drive and are feeding the 1.5V from the battery back to the old dead controller. The idea is to feed the voltage into the motor drive amplifier to tell it how fast it should move the motor. See if you can remove pins 1 and 2 from that white connector and insert the battery connections instead. Then put the connector back on the amplifier board as all the other connections need to remain connected to the amplifier along with the battery connections, If you can't figure out how to pop the pins out of the connector you might cut the 2 wires going to pins 1 and 2. Make sure to leave enough wire to be able to splice new connections onto the wires.

    I don't really follow which relays you are forcing closed. We might want to go off and figure out that first. You will eventually have to figure out a way for that to happen without the old controller. But I guess you already did this and nothing blew up.

    HTH
    Regards

    Regards
    TK http://dynomotion.com


  11. #31
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    Default Re: Tree325 Retrofit Started

    Quote Originally Posted by PeterTheWolf View Post
    ....
    ....Yes … I see that. As I got nothing doing this test with the machine power off. So I tried it with the machined powered up. I still got nothing. So, in my ignorance, I thought I would get out the machine’s schematics I posted here, and give them a look over. Reading these things does not come easy for me at this time … as I have very little experience doing so. However, I am into this retrofit by $1700 and I have a discouraging long way to go.
    No turning back now. It is alot of work, stick with it, and you will get it going eventually with help from everyone here. It takes alot of time to make a good machine for cheap. It takes alot of money to buy a good machine that already works. You cant save on both, need to spend one or the other. I think you are closer to having the axes moving then you think. If it gets overwhelming take a break for a few days and pick it up later. You need patience for this stuff for sure. Takes a while to figure everything out.

    Quote Originally Posted by PeterTheWolf View Post
    ....
    In any case, on page 1 (Frame D28) there a “1CON” relay. And I can see that this goes to the Axes Drive Chassis at #11 (hot side) and #12. When I power up the machine I do not hear this 1CON relay engage, so I assume I still have no power to servo motors during this test. Since I have no CRT when I power this machine up I have no way of referencing the axis and so closing all the necessary coils (1CRE & 12CRE) and/or satisfying other components to bring in this relay. So I manually pushed the relay in by hand with the power on and the 1.5V / 1K Ohm resistor in place on the X-axis and the axis actually moved in the negative X-axis direction (saddle moved to the right from the front of the machine). However, I tried reversing the leads on the battery and re-pushed the relay in and the axis moved in the same direction (saddle moved to the right from the front of the machine). So I am confused why the axis did not move in the opposite direction when I reverse the 1.5V battery leads. As Tom suggested it should. Is it because I disengaged the 1CON relay, switch battery leads , and then re-engaged the relay?
    Question: Is it advised to test each axis with this Amplifier Test before moving on to my next step in this retrofit? If so, I will have to move the ball screws by hand to get the Y & Z axis off their limits before testing since I will not know exactly which way it will move.

    ....
    .....

    Tree325 Retrofit Started-039_x-axisamplifiertest-jpg
    Yes as Tom said you are doing it backwards. Seems like you did find the right relay to power up the drives, thats great! But with connector off and 1.5v to the wrong side, the servo drive was probably just drifting when enabled which is not uncommon with no signal.

    Move ballscrews back to center somehow, put connector back on so drive has tach feedback, and chop the two wires (or pull pins) and try test again with signal feeding into drive instead of away from it.



  12. #32
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    Default Re: Tree325 Retrofit Started

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    .....

    Thanks men ..... for your patience ... I am sure it will be tested.

    Ok ... retest as advised in the next couple of days. I will test all axis to make sure I have correct movement.

    I started to try and figure out these machine schematics since, as Tom said, I will need to find out what is needed to be shorted out to get this relay pulled in to power the servo motors with the Kflop/Kanalog anyways and what wires will cut power.

    Thanks again Men.

    .....
    .....


    Quote Originally Posted by mmurray70 View Post

    Yes as Tom said you are doing it backwards. Seems like you did find the right relay to power up the drives, thats great! But with connector off and 1.5v to the wrong side, the servo drive was probably just drifting when enabled which is not uncommon with no signal.

    Move ballscrews back to center somehow, put connector back on so drive has tach feedback, and chop the two wires (or pull pins) and try test again with signal feeding into drive instead of away from it.




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    Default Re: Tree325 Retrofit Started

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    ....

    Well I re-connect the X-axis connector back to the drive board and re-tried the 1.5V / 1K Ohm resistor in place on the X-axis wires to re-test movement. No movement at all and I am sure it is because the 1CON relay was not pulled in and powering the drive.
    I tried manually pushing the in the relay; however, this time, still no power.
    With the X-axis connector plugged back into the drive board and the existing controller not being satisfied with all condition for power to drive boards .... this thing will not move on this test.

    To me, it would seem that the controller needs to be completely remove and wired to ensure this 1CON relay engages since I no longer have a CRT to see what the controller errors are on powering up this machine as is.

    For now I am at a loss for what to do next.

    Tree325 Retrofit Started-page1-jpg

    Tree325 Retrofit Started-page2-jpg

    Tree325 Retrofit Started-1cre-jpg

    ....
    .....



  14. #34
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    Default Re: Tree325 Retrofit Started

    Hi Peter,

    I wouldn't worry about removing the old controller yet.

    Let's focus on 1CRE relay. I think that might be all hard wired stuff and have little to do with the cold controller. All you should need to do is push the "Reset" Button. It would be helpful if you explained in some detail what parts you understand and then ask specific questions on what parts you don't. Otherwise it is hard to help. I believe the way it works is that if you push the momentary reset button 24V should flow through the momentary Reset button and through a whole bunch of stuff: EStop, Limits, Coolant Flow Sensor, etc to verify everything is safe and eventually activate 1CRE. One of the relay contacts of 1CRE is in parallel with the reset button so once 1CRE comes on you can release the Reset Button and 1CRE will remain on. If anything opens in the circuit like a Limit switch then 1CRE will turn off and will never be able to come back on without fixing whatever the problem was and pushing Reset again.

    Do you understand this?

    Are you capable of using a voltmeter to determine how many of the things in this circuit are passing the 24V and which of them are preventing 1CRE from turning on?

    Regards

    Regards
    TK http://dynomotion.com


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    Default Re: Tree325 Retrofit Started

    I would probably setup Kanalog to switch 24v on and off and connect it to this point and control the relay. So basically remove the reset wire and everything to the left of that point and use a Kanalog output to enable everything from there. This would still keep the safety of E stop, overloads and limit switches. This would get rid of the latching part of the relay, but I think you would be fine with just using Kanalog.

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Tree325 Retrofit Started-enable-jpg  


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    Default Re: Tree325 Retrofit Started

    ....
    .....
    Hello Tom,

    I do have a quality voltmeter.
    I do understand, somewhat. What confuses me is where the heck these wires are physically on the machine and where to take the readings at.
    What I think I understand is 24V Hot wire is being feed into the user panel with line #200. Which means I can take a DC-V meter reading from (one of the terminals) labeled #200 (Pos-lead) on on the wire bus to the left and the #4 (GND) (Neg-Lead) terminal on the wire bus and I should get 24V no matter what the state of the user panel. However, If I take a reading from the terminal #203 on the wire bus and the #4 (GND) and do not get 24V then something on the user panel is preventing the circuit to close and feed 24V to 1CRE. If the user panel is not allow the 24V to #203, then here is where I do not understand what is preventing it. The monitor screen is dead, I cannot see what is happening on it. The reset-button, I think will have no effect on the results of this reading; however, I have not tried it yet. I am first just trying to confirm what I think you are asking me to check for 24V.
    As I said, it become confusing to me where on the machine I am to make this checks.
    Here are some pictures of where I think I should be making my first 24V check at.

    On the Machine's Schematic:

    Tree325 Retrofit Started-24v_across_200_203-jpg

    The physical location on the machine:

    Tree325 Retrofit Started-ry4s-u_dc24v_relay_wires-jpg

    Front User Panel Reset Button:

    Tree325 Retrofit Started-userpanel-jpg




    Quote Originally Posted by TomKerekes View Post
    Hi Peter,

    I wouldn't worry about removing the old controller yet.

    Let's focus on 1CRE relay. I think that might be all hard wired stuff and have little to do with the cold controller. All you should need to do is push the "Reset" Button. It would be helpful if you explained in some detail what parts you understand and then ask specific questions on what parts you don't. Otherwise it is hard to help. I believe the way it works is that if you push the momentary reset button 24V should flow through the momentary Reset button and through a whole bunch of stuff: EStop, Limits, Coolant Flow Sensor, etc to verify everything is safe and eventually activate 1CRE. One of the relay contacts of 1CRE is in parallel with the reset button so once 1CRE comes on you can release the Reset Button and 1CRE will remain on. If anything opens in the circuit like a Limit switch then 1CRE will turn off and will never be able to come back on without fixing whatever the problem was and pushing Reset again.

    Do you understand this?

    Are you capable of using a voltmeter to determine how many of the things in this circuit are passing the 24V and which of them are preventing 1CRE from turning on?

    Regards




  17. #37
    Member PeterTheWolf's Avatar
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    Default Re: Tree325 Retrofit Started

    ....
    .....

    Hello mmurray70,

    I am working on getting a power supply and 10 Ohm/5 watt resistor for my Kflop/Kanalog.

    ....
    ....

    Quote Originally Posted by mmurray70 View Post
    I would probably setup Kanalog to switch 24v on and off and connect it to this point and control the relay. So basically remove the reset wire and everything to the left of that point and use a Kanalog output to enable everything from there. This would still keep the safety of E stop, overloads and limit switches. This would get rid of the latching part of the relay, but I think you would be fine with just using Kanalog.




  18. #38
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    Default Re: Tree325 Retrofit Started

    I do have a quality voltmeter.
    good

    What confuses me is where the heck these wires are physically on the machine and where to take the readings at.
    It seems you figured it out. The node numbers are labeled on the wires and you must search to find them.

    What I think I understand is 24V Hot wire is being feed into the user panel with line #200. Which means I can take a DC-V meter reading from (one of the terminals) labeled #200 (Pos-lead) on on the wire bus to the left and the #4 (GND) (Neg-Lead) terminal on the wire bus and I should get 24V no matter what the state of the user panel.
    I agree. Do you get the 24V?

    If I take a reading from the terminal #203 on the wire bus and the #4 (GND) and do not get 24V then something on the user panel is preventing the circuit to close and feed 24V to 1CRE. If the user panel is not allow the 24V to #203, then here is where I do not understand what is preventing it.
    That is correct. Unfortunately you don't have any information on the control panel wiring. So you have no choice but to open and reverse engineer it or completely workaround and replace it as mmurray70 suggests. It seems there were 2 means of re-enabling the CRE1 #203 and #214. I was expecting a big Reset/Enable button on the control panel making the connection to #214. But your photo shows more like a keyboard button to the old computer. But it would just take a second to push reset and see if you get 24V on #214 however unlikely...

    As mmurray70 suggests you might add your own switch to +24V. Either a mechanical switch or a Kanalog Output. Kanalog Opto Outputs are only rated to switch 25ma. So you must look up the specs on those relays to see how much coil current they draw at 24V in order to drive it directly with a Kanalog Opto Output sourcing 24V. If they cannot be driven directly you will need to add a relay or other device that can switch the current.

    The monitor screen is dead, I cannot see what is happening on it. The reset-button, I think will have no effect on the results of this reading; however, I have not tried it yet.
    Yes we know this. We don't want to utilize anything from the old controller anyways. The only way the reset button could be used as-is is if it was hard wired and not involving the old computer like some of the other buttons like E-Stop are wired. But that seems unlikely at this point.

    HTH

    Regards
    TK http://dynomotion.com


  19. #39
    Member PeterTheWolf's Avatar
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    Default Re: Tree325 Retrofit Started

    ....
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    Here are the results of my last testing of the servo motors with the 1.5V battery in series with a 1K Ohm resistor across the “Velocity Command” lines of each axis (connectors attached to the drive boards) .

    1.) I First checked for 24VDC at line #200 to #4 (GND) with the controller switched off. No 24VDC.
    2.) Turned on the controller (via user panel side switch) and then re-check line #200 to #4 (GND) ... I got 24VDC. Still confused why the controller had to be turned on.
    3.) Checked line #203 to #4 (GND) with the controller on; however, I did not get 24VDC.
    4.) I tried a jumper wire from #200 to #203 to by-pass the user panel.... this did not bring in the 1CRE, so 1CON relay would not engage.
    5.) Then I tried a jumper wire from #200 to #209 on the 1CRE and this engaged the 1CON relay. Which I assumed would then provide the power to the drives.
    6.) So I executed the 1.5V battery in series with a 1K Ohm resistor across the “Velocity Command” lines of each axis. I was able to get each axis moving (very slow) in either direction by changing the leads on the battery.
    7.) While I was moving the servo motors I also checked the voltage across the, what I though, was the power (voltage) making the servo motors move ( the inducers leads I believe) at wires #56 to #57, #66 to #67, and #76 to #77 and I was getting 3VDC on each axis. I am not sure what this tells me, other than I believe this was the voltage making the servo motors move very, very slow.... almost could not see them move at all unless you knew you were looking for that.
    8.) So, I am assuming my servo motors are good and I am now ready to think about wiring up the Kflop/Kanalog wiring .... right???
    9.) I would really appreciate advice as to the next step, if I executed these steps correctly.

    Thanks ....

    Tree325 Retrofit Started-24v_200_to_209_sch-jpg Tree325 Retrofit Started-24v_from_200_to_209-jpg

    Tree325 Retrofit Started-page5_v_chk-jpg Tree325 Retrofit Started-dcv_chk_across_axis_pict-jpg

    ....
    ....



  20. #40
    Member TomKerekes's Avatar
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    Default Re: Tree325 Retrofit Started

    4.) I tried a jumper wire from #200 to #203 to by-pass the user panel.... this did not bring in the 1CRE, so 1CON relay would not engage.
    That would be as expected. Because 1CRE is off, it's contact (#204 - #206), will still be open so this will do nothing. You would need this connection and then momentarily 24V to #214 to get things enabled. Or continuously to #214.

    5.) Then I tried a jumper wire from #200 to #209 on the 1CRE and this engaged the 1CON relay. Which I assumed would then provide the power to the drives.
    This is ok for a test but this bypasses EStop, Limits, Coolant checks, etc.

    6.) So I executed the 1.5V battery in series with a 1K Ohm resistor across the “Velocity Command” lines of each axis. I was able to get each axis moving (very slow) in either direction by changing the leads on the battery.
    Some progress, but doesn't sound quite right yet. 1.5V should be 15% of full speed which should be significant and not a slow creep. I suspect we don't have the right connections to the Amplifier. According to the schematic the Amp has 3 inputs: A differential input (J2 pin 1 and 2), a signal input (J1 pin2), and an aux input (J1pin1). I'm confused because now looking at the schematics it wouldn't make sense to connect our battery to J1 pins 1 and 2. Applying + and - to those shouldn't do much of anything which may be why you see the super slow movement. If using one those the - should be connected to GND J1 Pin 9 or 11. I think you need to spend some time to figure that out. Please take some close up pictures of the Amp boards and connectors. Maybe the drives don't match the drawing? But on the other hand the old controller seemed to be using those pins so I would expect it to work.

    Below is your Amp Drawing and the supposed connections to the Amp. The drawing shows connected to J2. But the photo looks more like J1. Can you identify where J2 is?

    Tree325 Retrofit Started-ampconnections-jpg

    Tree325 Retrofit Started-ampinput-jpg

    Regards

    Regards
    TK http://dynomotion.com


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