6'X12' DynaTorch build log - Page 3


Page 3 of 9 FirstFirst 123456 ... LastLast
Results 41 to 60 of 177

Thread: 6'X12' DynaTorch build log

  1. #41
    Registered WSS's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    U.S.A.
    Posts
    924
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default

    magma-joe,
    I hope to get it up and running sometime tomorrow. The charts were made with a UV exposure kit I use for making metal marking stencils. It is a "extra" included with the metal marking kit. I used to make quite a few knives and would make custom stencils for each one. The company sent a sample aluminum plate to play with and I was hooked. It is pretty straight forward as you can do your art work and print it on a transparency sheet (Staples by the box) and put it over the aluminum sheet and expose it under the UV light and then rinse it in warm water and it exposes the detail. It also marks most metals really well with the chem-etch kit. it puts either a .006" deep mark or a dark black oxide mark, or both if you switch between ac and dc while your marking. You can get 50 marks from the stencil if you treat it good and clean between each mark. here is a link:

    http://www.martronics-corporation.com/sign.htm

    http://www.martronics-corporation.com/eom.htm

    I know it seems like a "as seen on TV" kind of sales gimmick but it works. They also sell different kinds of adhesive covers for the signs. I like the polycarbonate covers as they add a nice frosty look to them and withstand gloved hands really well.

    Another trick that is not as durable but more colorful is to mirror print your image on a transparency sheet and then run it though a Zyron sticker machine. They can be had at craft stores like micheals or joannes. The image is then trapped between the shiny transparency and the adhesive. The drawback is it is not very UV resistant. I am not sure about plasma but a welder will fade it in a month or so. If it is not exposed to light it will do well. And you can print in full color.

    Do you have a 1650? I will post the chart as a jpg. It has been chopped and spliced to show the info that I will need, including the assembly. I still need help when re assembling the torch.

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 6'X12' DynaTorch build log-plasmacutchart-smallcopy-jpg  


  2. #42
    Registered
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    usa
    Posts
    378
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default

    WSS,
    I am sure you are ready to see the sparks fly! I am anxious to hear how it all works out.
    Thanks for the info and link. I am very interested. Is the chem etch what you normally see on the blades of most knives these days?

    I have the 1250 hypertherm so I need a different chart than the 1650. Since I do alot of thin material I also want to make a chart for finecut consummables.

    I know you have already checked the ground for your table and Dynatorch has their own method for doing so in their manual but there is something I wanted to pass along to everyone that happened to me.

    In the Dynatorch manual they state that you should consider drilling a hole in the floor near the machine and drive in a ground rod so as to get a good ground for the machine. I did just that when I installed my table however after conducting their ground test on the new 5' deep ground rod it failed terribly. My first thought was how could this be? Perhaps I must have made some kind of mistake in the test. I checked 2 more times, same result?

    After consulting with my electrician he informed me that the moisture in the earth has alot to do with with how good of a ground you get. He recommended that I run some water down around the rod to help it. My building was built in 1982 so after 27 years the soil beneath must have been plenty dry. I was'nt to keen on this as it would have required drilling another hole and the water would have had to seep at least overnight.

    I ended up buying a roll of 1/4" diameter copper grounding rod and running it to the existing ground rod for my buildings electrical box. It then passed the ground test with zero problems. It made me realize that a ground can change over time and just because you have a 5' ground rod driven in the soil does not mean you have a good ground and it should be checked periodicly. It is cheap insurance against pontential electronic damage.

    Last edited by magma-joe; 08-27-2009 at 09:36 AM.


  3. #43
    Registered
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    83
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default

    Joe, can you explain how to check a ground rod?

    Thank you



  4. #44
    Registered
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    usa
    Posts
    378
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default

    tof1, Go to the Dynatorch website and download their manual. In the last few pages it shows how to test the ground.

    When are you going to post a pic of your table???



  5. #45
    Registered WSS's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    U.S.A.
    Posts
    924
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default

    magma-joe,
    I spent 8+ hours on grounding. I had to drill two holes that were 12" deep and still didn't pass through the concrete. In the end I ended up outside the building (three feet from the table, 1 foot from the intended ground site). I used a copper clad 8 footer and it went OK from there. I used #4 solid to pass through the wall and installed a junction box and tied everything inside the box. I used #6 stranded from the table and 3ph ground strap and #12 for the 110 to the console. I could not find a 100w bulb anywhere around the shop. I had to use a 60w bulb and scale it (Leon did the math for me). It called for .75v but Leon wanted to see .5v, we had .2683v w/a 60w bulb which factored to under .5v. I still think I will add another rod and tie them together. Our local Lowes was out of them last time I looked so I will try Home Depot.

    A question regarding a potential problem: I used the cable carrier to carry the plasma torch cable as well and tried to loop it as gently as I could. The transition from X to Y carriers run really close to the master motor (within an inch), should I make a bracket or some way to get it away from the motor before i put power to either the motor or plasma? I noticed that none of the cables in the harness are shielded, I am hoping there is not a noise issue here.

    Thanks!
    WSS

    tof1, ya, post some pics when you get a chance.

    Last edited by WSS; 08-27-2009 at 11:13 AM. Reason: ask tof 1 to post some pics!


  6. #46
    Registered
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    83
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default

    WSS, I have my plasma cable in a cable chain with everything else and it's fine. It also runs right next to the Z motor. Took off early today, I'll try to get a pic up tomorrow.



  7. #47
    Registered
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    usa
    Posts
    378
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default

    WSS, I have never had a problem with mine. I included a pic. When I install the new gantry I am going to reverse the direction the Igus chain comes from as it will allow a much easier transition fron the X to Y. If you open this link go down the page to technical info and open up the solid model of the Dynatorch dropside dual drive, select run on the menu and you can see the layout of the Igus chain from the other direction. You can also pan, tilt, and zoom in with the tools.

    http://www.dynatorch.com/Map.htm

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 6'X12' DynaTorch build log-plasma-cable-1-jpg  


  8. #48
    Registered WSS's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    U.S.A.
    Posts
    924
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default

    magma-joe,
    Thanks for the pic! Mine is almost exact, yours actually has a gentler bend. I will pull mine out a little to go around the motor like yours. Mine sits right on top of the motor now.

    tof1, That is good news, I was wondering how the noise would affect it. It sound s like it is going to work fine. I have heard that servos have a tougher time with noise than steppers. It seems that both the plasma and CNC technology has melded together well.



  9. #49
    Registered
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Canada
    Posts
    268
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default

    WSS

    I sent you a pm this morning but im not sure if it went through? is your inbox full?

    EDD



  10. #50
    Registered WSS's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    U.S.A.
    Posts
    924
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default

    Edwardo, I didn't get it. I checked and the box is empty. I am not too good at the PM thing, I can never find what I sent or accidentally deleting messages and such. Try it again when you can.

    I did a bunch of cutting today with the HP and it worked good. I am trying to get together some 80amp parts to see if I can get some cleaner holes. The holes have quite a taper but are sharp on both sides with little dross, a putty knife knocks it off easily. The holes were oversized and slotted slightly for 1/2" bolts in 1/2" ar500. It pierced fast and did the loop with a slight over run to clean up the lead-in. All was good except the taper, the taper was not as much on the outside cuts. Any Ideas?

    Cheers,
    WSS



  11. #51
    Registered
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    usa
    Posts
    378
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default

    WSS, are you cutting clockwise or counterclockwise? It does have an effect on cut quality.



  12. #52
    Registered WSS's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    U.S.A.
    Posts
    924
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default Cut direction

    Quote Originally Posted by magma-joe View Post
    WSS, are you cutting clockwise or counterclockwise? It does have an effect on cut quality.
    magma-joe,
    I cut CCW for the inside and CW on outside. strange but I did not reverse the direction of the motor, when the mag pin was tracing inside it was moving CCW, same motor direction and tracing the outside was CW. I like to "measure twice, cut once" so I made sure (obsessively) the tip was traveling what I thought was correct. I may have it completely backwards though. Is it CW for inside cuts?

    I downloaded the manual for the 1250. I can now cut and splice a cut chart for the 1250 users here. Would one covering just mild steel (incl fine cut/unshielded as well) be enough or does alum and SS need to included?

    Everyone have a wonderful weekend.
    WSS



  13. #53
    Registered
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    usa
    Posts
    378
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default

    WSS, ccw is correct. Here is some food for thought on how to get the best plasma cuts. Holes less than 1 1/2 times material thickness are always more challenging.

    http://www.centricut.com/TA_CuttingSmallHoles.htm

    http://www.centricut.com/Training_Articles.htm

    http://www.centricut.com/Articles/Ce...g_Articles.pdf


    For my applications, including the aluminum in the 1250 chart would be great! Thanks!

    Last edited by magma-joe; 08-30-2009 at 08:31 AM.


  14. #54
    Registered WSS's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    U.S.A.
    Posts
    924
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default

    magma-joe,

    Those are great links! I have bookmarked the html sites and downloaded the pdf's. There is a lot to learn. I will spend some time just wandering around the centricut site. I need to sign up to get the DVD, it looks packed full of info.

    Thanks again!
    WSS

    www.metaltechus.com


  15. #55
    Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    343
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default

    Magma-joe I'll repeat WSS for the links. They are great and Lord knows I need to learn as much as an old dog can. I thought I was the only knifemaker hanging out around here but it looks like WSS is one also.



  16. #56
    Registered
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Canada
    Posts
    268
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default

    Starting off easy with some clip art i modified, i have the same 1/8th sheet on my table from 3 months ago, so i want to burn it up before putting a new one on...

    EDD

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 6'X12' DynaTorch build log-100_1918-jpg   6'X12' DynaTorch build log-100_1919-jpg  


  17. #57
    Registered WSS's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    U.S.A.
    Posts
    924
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default

    Thats some detail! The rope is impressive. It held it's shape nicely. I like the font, especially the round ends. That is tricky. Did you do that today? What kind of finish work did you do?

    I have an update on our gantry (yeah!), Dt will ship me a new harness on Tues. They ran a program on my harness and motors called waltz warm-up which takes 50min to run through and ours ran through 13 times with no glitches. That is the way it goes! If they sent it back to me it would have crashed on start up. I did not send Murphy with the rest of the items, he stayed here in my shop and did some other damage around the shop, like a danaher encoder he trashed and a screw jack that ate a acme thread. Anyway, DT kindly suggested that we install a new harness. This way we have eliminated the problem entirely. So it looks like next week I should be able to test it.



  18. #58
    Registered
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Canada
    Posts
    268
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default

    WSS

    Thats good news to hear Tommy...

    I have been slowly getting back into the groove with mine, i cut thoughs 2 peices this morning then played around with gussets all afternoon, i made up a bunch of files so if i have a part sheet again i can quickly lay out a pattern and cut it out, they all work good with no lead in and 1 peirce for each file, i still havent cut a entire sheet up but it think it will work fine if i ever need it. On the new smaller files i made the grid 4.124 and 6.125 and the gussets come out bang on 4" and 6"... So i got that sheet thats been on my table for almost 3 months cut up and gone, tommorow im cutting aluminium.
    It is amazing the detail you can get with the fine cut consumables, i havent finished thoughs 2 peices i cut this morning, im going to try and sell as much as possible just bare metal, eventually i want to build my own powder coating set up... i took some pics i'll try and post tommorow

    EDD



  19. #59
    Registered
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    usa
    Posts
    378
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default

    WSS, Glad to hear about the harness. You should be up and running soon! Murphy can show up at the worst times (LOL)



  20. #60
    Registered WSS's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    U.S.A.
    Posts
    924
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default

    A few clips from our Research and Development team running our DT through it's paces.............LOL

    WSS

    Attached Files Attached Files
    www.metaltechus.com


Page 3 of 9 FirstFirst 123456 ... LastLast

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  


About CNCzone.com

    We are the largest and most active discussion forum for manufacturing industry. The site is 100% free to join and use, so join today!

Follow us on


Our Brands

6'X12' DynaTorch build log

6'X12' DynaTorch build log