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  1. #73
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    Default Re: Build log-drhanger's DM4400 electronics retrofit

    Jim, I'm glad I'm not the only one that might benefit from this.

    I've ordered the transistor and microprocessor from Amazon, I should have resistors on hand. Prolly have to stop at Fry's Electronics one day for the caps. I hope to be able to breadboard this together for testing this weekend. I plan to just manually apply the 5V signal to the DIR pin for now, if all works well then I'll have to work on the additional output I'll need. Also design and cut a circuit board of course.



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    Default Re: Build log-drhanger's DM4400 electronics retrofit

    Marty-

    Your BOM lists the transistor as 'NP', apparently there is a P missing. Do you remember which, PNP or NPN?

    Dan



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    Default Re: Build log-drhanger's DM4400 electronics retrofit

    It also lists the part number 2N2222 which is an NPN transistor. Dirt cheap.



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    Default Re: Build log-drhanger's DM4400 electronics retrofit

    Hey Marty-

    I finally got that breadboard circuit put together and tested it out just now. It works as expected generally, however in reverse the spindle is somewhat erratic. The driver makes a 'loping' sound and the tach was kinda unsteady. I checked the output voltage at the +10V out of your circuit--in forward the output was rock solid, but in reverse the output was erratic. I checked the voltage at the PSU (+/- 12VDC) and they were both steady under power, so I think the PSU is fine. There is one difference I made in your circuit based on availability of parts at Fry's Electronics. I was able to find the 100 uF electrolytic caps, but they had none of the 0.1uF in electrolytic, only in ceramic. Do you think this might be the reason? Doesn't make sense since forward is solid, but I really don't know anything about it.



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    Default Re: Build log-drhanger's DM4400 electronics retrofit

    Quote Originally Posted by drhanger View Post
    Hey Marty-

    I finally got that breadboard circuit put together and tested it out just now. It works as expected generally, however in reverse the spindle is somewhat erratic. The driver makes a 'loping' sound and the tach was kinda unsteady. I checked the output voltage at the +10V out of your circuit--in forward the output was rock solid, but in reverse the output was erratic. I checked the voltage at the PSU (+/- 12VDC) and they were both steady under power, so I think the PSU is fine. There is one difference I made in your circuit based on availability of parts at Fry's Electronics. I was able to find the 100 uF electrolytic caps, but they had none of the 0.1uF in electrolytic, only in ceramic. Do you think this might be the reason? Doesn't make sense since forward is solid, but I really don't know anything about it.
    Dan,
    I built several of these and never had the problem you described.
    Did you substitute the caps or didn't use them at all? They are small ceramic...



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    Default Re: Build log-drhanger's DM4400 electronics retrofit

    I substituted the caps with the ceramic ones. As a test to eliminate the spindle driver as the problem I bypassed the input to the driver with a battery and changed polarity back and forth. I wasn't able to get the same erratic behavior that way so I think maybe I just don't have the circuit working quite properly, maybe the breadboard I'm using is not quite right. Well, even if I don't get the problem cleared up it will probably still work for what I want, which is just being able to tap with a tapping head. I have a floating tap head, and the change in spindle speed is so minor that I'm sure the floating head will make up for it for the few seconds of reversing the tap. I'm going to go ahead with making a proper circuit board for it. I still have to add another output to my control using the additional parallel port card I mentioned before, so once those two things are completed I should be good to go. Thanks for your help.



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    Default Re: Build log-drhanger's DM4400 electronics retrofit

    Quote Originally Posted by drhanger View Post
    I substituted the caps with the ceramic ones. As a test to eliminate the spindle driver as the problem I bypassed the input to the driver with a battery and changed polarity back and forth. I wasn't able to get the same erratic behavior that way so I think maybe I just don't have the circuit working quite properly, maybe the breadboard I'm using is not quite right. Well, even if I don't get the problem cleared up it will probably still work for what I want, which is just being able to tap with a tapping head. I have a floating tap head, and the change in spindle speed is so minor that I'm sure the floating head will make up for it for the few seconds of reversing the tap. I'm going to go ahead with making a proper circuit board for it. I still have to add another output to my control using the additional parallel port card I mentioned before, so once those two things are completed I should be good to go. Thanks for your help.
    Suggest you fix the circuit.
    I thought you were going to route a PCB?



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    Default Re: Build log-drhanger's DM4400 electronics retrofit

    Just got an old DM4400 but it does not have original power supply under base, actually has no base. Machine sat outside local machine shop for years. I jumped the internal power supply from 240v to 120v and hooked up 120v and the x,y,z axis move fine. The servo amplifier is also missing as is the door. Think it fell off a truck as beat up cabinet.

    Plan on replacing the servo amp with a Bardac 3200i board I have.
    There is a set of wires that ran from the original base power supply #3 on page 7-1 of the original owners manual to the bus bar #5 on page 7-2.
    The white wire on pin 8 is 220v, pin 9 black wire is 110v. Can anyone please tell me what the voltages should be on the other 7 wires?

    Thanks guys.
    Don

    Last edited by Meri; 03-13-2018 at 11:59 AM.


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    Default Re: Build log-drhanger's DM4400 electronics retrofit

    Marty-

    I was about an inch away from totally giving up on this. I just wasn't getting anywhere, in fact after my initial somewhat successful attempt I was unable to duplicate it and wasn't getting anything at all. Today I went at it again and realized my error--once corrected it works perfectly. Not even an erratic signal, perfectly stable both forward and reverse.

    Next comes working on getting the additional I/O from an auxiliary parallel port, then cut the new circuit board. It's coming together, slowly. Thanks.

    Dan



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    Default Re: Build log-drhanger's DM4400 electronics retrofit

    Quote Originally Posted by Meri View Post
    Just got an old DM4400 but it does not have original power supply under base, actually has no base. Machine sat outside local machine shop for years. I jumped the internal power supply from 240v to 120v and hooked up 120v and the x,y,z axis move fine. The servo amplifier is also missing as is the door. Think it fell off a truck as beat up cabinet.

    Plan on replacing the servo amp with a Bardac 3200i board I have.
    There is a set of wires that ran from the original base power supply #3 on page 7-1 of the original owners manual to the bus bar #5 on page 7-2.
    The white wire on pin 8 is 220v, pin 9 black wire is 110v. Can anyone please tell me what the voltages should be on the other 7 wires?

    Thanks guys.
    Don
    Don-

    Wish I could help out. Like so many others I've gutted almost the entire cabinet for new electronics, so don't even have anything to test measure. Good luck.

    Dan



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    Default Re: Build log-drhanger's DM4400 electronics retrofit

    Thanks Dan,

    Probably have to do the same and replace everything. Did get the brake working so next is install the Bardac board and test the spindle.
    Could you summarize the boards and software you are using. I believe Marty is using the centroid - Acorn setup.

    Thanks
    Don



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    Default Re: Build log-drhanger's DM4400 electronics retrofit

    Don--

    I am using a Leadshine MX3660 for axis motor drivers; I've been pretty happy with it, seems to be reliable and has a small assortment of I/O's available. If your needs are modest it would probably suit you well for this machine. I've also replaced the original steppers and belt drive for a direct drive system. I tried the original steppers for a while but couldn't reliably get more than 72 IPM with that setup, so I made some adapter plates and replaced the motors. I can now get 120 IPM reliably; I've had recent days of using it all day long and have never experienced any lost steps. As for software, I use LinuxCNC. I'm not a Linux expert by any stretch. I built my own CNC router a few years back (my first foray into CNC building after programming and operating for several years) and went with LinuxCNC for the simple reason that it was cheap (open source, no cost) and my son was and is a Linux expert (some would say snob, but, he is my son :-)). In its favor it has a large user community and knowledge base, so if DIY CNC control is your thing I would recommend it. I don't have any experience with any others so can't recommend anything else.

    Dan

    - - - Updated - - -

    Don-

    Where did you find your machine?



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