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  1. #141
    Member peteeng's Avatar
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    Default Re: CNC router build to machine wood and aluminium (1mX1mX0.4m)

    Hi Rupesh - There are no fixed rules. As you say its a hobby and you try things and they work or they fail. Failures you learn from more then success. Try things gently and ramp up. There are Makita copies out there that are 1/3rd the price. I bought a 48V 12000rpm 500W spindle and I'm really happy with it. Its quiet that was the main thing. Not as much grunt as the Mak but it has an ER11 collet which is long. Suits me when I do deep hollow objects. The Maks locking pin used to get in the way sometimes... nearly cut it off once.
    There are now 800W DC spindles. Gave up trying to cut Al on Scoot my first router so sold it and I'm building a new one as you know. All of this has lead to me designing a mill which 3 years ago I would have said that's crazy. Keep making and learning.. Peter



  2. #142

    Default Re: CNC router build to machine wood and aluminium (1mX1mX0.4m)

    Since my mak is away and is not coming back till wed, I am fine tuning the router setup and making some changes. One thing hit me is if the tool got loose and it applied force on mak which later got twisted along with the brackets holding it, why didn't the tool broke. The bent force went on to the mak spindle which rubbed against the field coil and shorted everything. I have broken many end mills on my lathe milling attachment quite easy. The tool stuck in the aluminum should have sheared the aluminum if it could not break. It was just a 0.3mm depth of cut it was making. This pointed out the week point which was the brackets holding the mak in place. 10mm aluminum, 2 of them not very stiff. I have now planned to make these brackets from 16mm aluminum (leftover from columns). A simple ANSYS analysis would have shown me this and I could have saved the Mak. I would rather prefer the toll breaking up henceforth.

    So I added one more Al plate to support the X. This was long pending. I am also planning to add horizontal plates in between the X axis plates you see here. But by the look of the arrangement I feel the column would flex well before the X would. So rather adding more strength to X to resist the bend, I should move my focus to column.

    Now I recall Peter mentioning the web to be added to Column. What could be the best method to do it. I don't have access to TIG, welding the support web would have been the best option. But what could be my options here?

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails CNC router build to machine wood and aluminium (1mX1mX0.4m)-img_20201025_030401-jpg   CNC router build to machine wood and aluminium (1mX1mX0.4m)-img_20201025_030419-jpg  
    -Rupesh


  3. #143
    Member peteeng's Avatar
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    Default Re: CNC router build to machine wood and aluminium (1mX1mX0.4m)

    Hi Rupesh - welding (TIG or other) will warp your parts. So don't weld. Using construction brackets or edge bolting is good enough.. Good luck Peter



  4. #144

    Default Re: CNC router build to machine wood and aluminium (1mX1mX0.4m)

    Quote Originally Posted by peteeng View Post
    Hi Rupesh - welding (TIG or other) will warp your parts. So don't weld. Using construction brackets or edge bolting is good enough.. Good luck Peter
    Do you suggest something like this?

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails CNC router build to machine wood and aluminium (1mX1mX0.4m)-img_20201025_123758-picsay-jpg  
    -Rupesh


  5. #145
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    Default Re: CNC router build to machine wood and aluminium (1mX1mX0.4m)

    Hi Rupesh - The dwgs are a little unclear to me. But I'll put fwd something. How about using a square hollow section bolted to the column side? Plus a machinist would never have their clamps inclined down as the job can slip. They should be slightly up. Put some spacers under the ends....and have the bolt near the middle. I think for now your columns are fine you need to work on your Z axis its a bit thin Cheers Peter

    For clamps I use 40x18mm pine with a slot. I use 8mm threaded rod and nuts for the clamp with a heavy washer. If the tool hits pine no biggy. If it hits Al can be nasty. The pine means I can quickly put a hole or slot as needed and can make them on the spot to suit. They get used, shortened and knocked around until they disappear.

    The candle stand has had the grooves filled with coloured epoxy and then varnished. The stand is lashed to the board with copper wire. It was a gift to a friend... started simple but got serious, the board that is, the friend is still a good friend

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails CNC router build to machine wood and aluminium (1mX1mX0.4m)-bowl-innards-1-jpg   CNC router build to machine wood and aluminium (1mX1mX0.4m)-viking-1-jpg   CNC router build to machine wood and aluminium (1mX1mX0.4m)-collet-rub-jpg   CNC router build to machine wood and aluminium (1mX1mX0.4m)-munched-clamp-jpg  

    CNC router build to machine wood and aluminium (1mX1mX0.4m)-candle-stand-jpg  
    Last edited by peteeng; 10-25-2020 at 04:33 AM.


  6. #146

    Default Re: CNC router build to machine wood and aluminium (1mX1mX0.4m)

    The clamps were horizontal as I mounted. I will do as advised, inclined and bolt moved to center to have equal pressure on both ends. I see the Z plate on which the route r is mounted is thin (10mm) and has a end protruding at the very end. That is a point of weakness. Either I should change to more thicker plate or bolt some channel on to it.

    The craft you shared looks beautiful. I will make clamps out of pine now, that's added safety in case router collet collides.

    Today was the proposed delivery date for the repaired router but when I checked with the service center they said they didn't have stock in Bangalore center and they are arranging it from New Delhi. I was baffled and surprised. Such a big brand and they don't have ready spare with them. Mumbai is already a big hub, they don't have it here, then they went Bangalore (main office) they don't have there too (informing me after a week?) now they are getting it from New Delhi.

    This is a nightmare seriously. I understand Makita is Japanese and they do "just in time" but they should not do this way (Pun intended). I wonder if they next call me and say they are arranging it from Japan ().

    -Rupesh


  7. #147
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    Default Re: CNC router build to machine wood and aluminium (1mX1mX0.4m)

    Quote Originally Posted by Tony_Stark View Post
    Hi folks,

    I am a newbie in CNC stuff. I have started desginign a CNC router out of my need. I am a hobbyist and I own a small lathe, A drill press, Spot welder, sheet rolling machine, dremel etc. Its a small hobby workshop that I have built out of passion. I use to mill small stuff occasionally on my lathe using a milling attachment. But this is painful and also very limited to what I can mill on it. So finally decided to go CNC router route.

    Commercially available router are very costly for my requirement. for the last 1 week I read about CNC router on this forum and have come up with a design. I appreciate everyones input here to direct me and help me avoid any pitfall.

    Objective: Mostly light aluminium work and some wood carving for RC aeroplane work.

    I first studied some CNC routers and came up with my design. This is like 3rd iteration and I expect it to change here and there. As I will be milling aluminium, I tried making it rigid by having dual linear shaft rod on both side of X axis with four mounting support to avoid any twist/moment.
    Most of the parts are aluminium/aluminum either flat rectangle or extrusion. I have depicted the proposed dimensions on the rough sketch (Little old school).

    Estimated rough weight of the load on each axis: (I calculated it based on metal and part weights)

    Gantry: 32Kg (All vertical load like. Y+Z+vertical support plate)
    X axis: 18Kg (bed+lead screw)
    Y axis: 16Kg (load of Z axis component and its own weight)
    Z axis: 6Kg (including router)

    Below is my spec. I have tried to get what I can get in my country and within my budget. My req. is hobby purpose so it won't be running 5 hours a day.

    3 Nema 23 = (26kg-cm)(368 oz-in) holding torque
    3 DM542 driver
    1 Power supply 40V, 7.4Amp
    Mach 3 breakout board
    Router makita 700W (1HP, I know this is low for aluminium but I could not find any other powerful router here, spindle with VFD are very costly like 4 times)
    Ball screw= Two option available 20X5 or 16X16(this is relatively cheap) I was looking for 16by5 but its not available here.
    Guide linear shaft =16mm on X and Y and 12 mm for Z axis

    Router dimension:
    X end-to-end =1meter
    Y end-to-end =1meter
    Z end-to-end = 0.4meter

    I will work on CAD after I finalize the drawing to get all the parts right and fit well. I have no access to big mill and due to Covid shops are shut mostly. So I will do it all by hand with whatever I have. Could you please help me if I am going right.

    I have not purchased anything yet. I am sizing all parts and cost for it. This whole setup translate to 1200 USD so far. It could have been cheaper but china is not shipping to India. So I am buying locally which is little costlier but quality is certain.

    Open to hear from you guys.
    Most of the people uses CNC router for wood working but forget to get help from angle grinders along with it. It will add an huge impact on your work and beatify your efforts, I just read one guide here on https://anglegrinderguide.com
    and further more there are some quality videos on it.

    You can get some good help from it.

    Regards



  8. #148

    Default Re: CNC router build to machine wood and aluminium (1mX1mX0.4m)

    So the dismay continues. Its been 2 weeks since I sent it to the service center and I am yet to get it back. The service center keeps tossing surprises. I learnt that they don't have field coil for the trimmer and they are arranging it from JAPAN. Can you believe it? I could neither. So I dialed higher folks up the chain and manage to track one field coil lying at New Delhi. They should do this job, not me hunting and pressurizing them. Now both parts are on it way to Mumbai and they are due to receive it TODAY. This "today" has been there for 2-3 days.

    When I asked why so much delay and why you don't have enough spare, their response is top class- "our tool rarely suffer such catastrophe" so we don't keep much spare. while I feel this is best scenario for any power tool company but its somehow far from reality. May be I just got unlucky screwing it.

    There are some pending things to do. I have to re-wire stuff, make a electrical housing for component, make a bench to put the router onto etc. I have been contemplating to put a workbench in my small workshop. The workshop I have is very small due to space constraint. This is woodworking and router was my entry point. So lot to learn.

    I should shift my focus there and learn some woodworking and then get the workbench and shelves completed while my Mak come back to me.

    -Rupesh


  9. #149
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    Default Re: CNC router build to machine wood and aluminium (1mX1mX0.4m)

    Very interesting thread thank you - I've learned a lot.

    how did you go with the bent ballscrew? did you straighten it?



  10. #150

    Default Re: CNC router build to machine wood and aluminium (1mX1mX0.4m)

    Hi Stuart,

    The ball screw was bent slightly at the middle and could have fixed it by mounting it in the lathe and then pulling it one side to counter the bent. But I got a replacement ball screw from the seller and I just replaced it.

    While I was doing all sorts of witch hunting, I found out the motor center was also not completely aligned to ball screw center which was exacerbating the issue. I fixed that and the deflection/jittering reduced and after replacement it is very smooth. In fact, the rate at which I can max out is higher on X axis than Y axis (which has 2 motors).

    I also strengthen the X axis with one extra plate as you see above and also added some more plate on the back side of X axis where the balls crew nut connected with Z to move it horizontally. I made it a complete box type. All of this helped and now its good.

    The router is still sitting idle as I am yet to receive the Mak back. As I have tuned the alignments and added extra strength, wanted to see how it affects the performance.

    Meanwhile I have shifted my focus to build a garage rack. As I have a very small room which I have converted into a workshop, I don't have much space for all the stuff. The router is sitting on the ground. I need to make a sturdy table for it- A project for this weekend. Also I need to shift my lathe to a more sturdier bench. All made from pine/mdf/plywood. So learning things how to work with it.

    Slow and steady, but moving.

    -Rupesh


  11. #151

    Default Re: CNC router build to machine wood and aluminium (1mX1mX0.4m)

    Forgot to update. Got my MAK after 22 days after lot of push and follow ups. They didn't charged me any penny. The router is back to life and working nice. I will have to make new mount thou to do AL machining as the previous one was week and got bent in the mishap. for wood that still works ok. I am also adding air jet system as well as vacuum (mounted on router Z axis) for Al and wood machining resp. I did contemplated for a while to add some kind of flood system If I can to machine aluminium but with a MDF bed and low space its not looking feasible. I can remove the MDF below which Al bed is there but I still need to figure out how to make such arrangement. If any one has any idea or has done anything of this sort please let me know.

    -Rupesh


  12. #152

    Default Re: CNC router build to machine wood and aluminium (1mX1mX0.4m)

    I have been fiddling around with the Aluminium machining. Recently added air cooling and changed the Mak mounts to a better and stronger one. Also to reduce chatter, vibration and tool deflection, decided to mount the workpiece on a vice. This way the tool is sticking out less. The changes made have shown a very good results. I now can machine at 720mm/minute easy with a 2 flute 4.7mm end mill. There is no gumming or heating of workpiece or tool. The depth of cut is 0.3mm to start with. Will definitely go little up on this. Doing conventional milling as rough pass and then will do climb on final pass.

    What is the best way to mount a round blank on a vice? I mounted as shown but its not completely secure and vibrate a bit on cross axis. Thought of V block on one side, but I don't have any.

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails CNC router build to machine wood and aluminium (1mX1mX0.4m)-mvimg_20201204_002451-jpg  
    -Rupesh


  13. #153
    Member peteeng's Avatar
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    Default Re: CNC router build to machine wood and aluminium (1mX1mX0.4m)

    Hi Rupesh - You machine new jaws for the size you want. You can get hard plastic, timber or aluminium take the hard jaws off, mount the new "Jaws" and machine a matching surface to the one that you want to grip. Peter



  14. #154

    Default Re: CNC router build to machine wood and aluminium (1mX1mX0.4m)

    Quote Originally Posted by peteeng View Post
    Hi Rupesh - You machine new jaws for the size you want. You can get hard plastic, timber or aluminium take the hard jaws off, mount the new "Jaws" and machine a matching surface to the one that you want to grip. Peter
    Thnx Peter. Didn't think of it. That's solve the problem.

    -Rupesh


  15. #155
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    Default Re: CNC router build to machine wood and aluminium (1mX1mX0.4m)

    Thats a sound tip if you make a new set of curved grips for every size job that comes along or if you set up for many multiples.An alternative is to buy a basic lathe 3 jaw chuck and mount it on a square backplate.You can bolt the backplate to the table of the machine and with a set of reverse jaws on the shelf,you can hold quite a lot of different sizes very easily.You also have a consistent location for the job's XY datum.



  16. #156

    Default Re: CNC router build to machine wood and aluminium (1mX1mX0.4m)

    Quote Originally Posted by routalot View Post
    Thats a sound tip if you make a new set of curved grips for every size job that comes along or if you set up for many multiples.An alternative is to buy a basic lathe 3 jaw chuck and mount it on a square backplate.You can bolt the backplate to the table of the machine and with a set of reverse jaws on the shelf,you can hold quite a lot of different sizes very easily.You also have a consistent location for the job's XY datum.
    Excellent idea mate. I will be on a lookout for a small lathe 3 jaw chuck. Thanks a lot for this idea.

    -Rupesh


  17. #157

    Default Re: CNC router build to machine wood and aluminium (1mX1mX0.4m)

    One issue I have encountered. Need help!!

    while I was machining, one of the Y axis motor stopped. I checked and the driver has 1 LED blinking. It blinks like 1 time every 3 second. I tried switching off-on- disconnecting connecting but it stays that way no matter what. The voltage is 40 volt well within its range (24-50). I swapped the driver to other one to check if motor has some issue but the driver shows red there too. Motor checks out well and works with other driver. fault in driver is not going away.

    This is unique problem which happened a month before to other axis driver. I disconnected all, did some wiring check and on off and after some try it went away and started working. I am not having issue since then but now this one is not getting fixed and there is no reset button anywhere on the driver.

    -Rupesh


  18. #158
    Member Phani_avireddy's Avatar
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Tony_Stark View Post
    Hi folks,

    I am a newbie in CNC stuff. I have started desginign a CNC router out of my need. I am a hobbyist and I own a small lathe, A drill press, Spot welder, sheet rolling machine, dremel etc. Its a small hobby workshop that I have built out of passion. I use to mill small stuff occasionally on my lathe using a milling attachment. But this is painful and also very limited to what I can mill on it. So finally decided to go CNC router route.

    Commercially available router are very costly for my requirement. for the last 1 week I read about CNC router on this forum and have come up with a design. I appreciate everyones input here to direct me and help me avoid any pitfall.

    Objective: Mostly light aluminium work and some wood carving for RC aeroplane work.

    I first studied some CNC routers and came up with my design. This is like 3rd iteration and I expect it to change here and there. As I will be milling aluminium, I tried making it rigid by having dual linear shaft rod on both side of X axis with four mounting support to avoid any twist/moment.
    Most of the parts are aluminium/aluminum either flat rectangle or extrusion. I have depicted the proposed dimensions on the rough sketch (Little old school).

    Estimated rough weight of the load on each axis: (I calculated it based on metal and part weights)

    Gantry: 32Kg (All vertical load like. Y+Z+vertical support plate)
    X axis: 18Kg (bed+lead screw)
    Y axis: 16Kg (load of Z axis component and its own weight)
    Z axis: 6Kg (including router)

    Below is my spec. I have tried to get what I can get in my country and within my budget. My req. is hobby purpose so it won't be running 5 hours a day.

    3 Nema 23 = (26kg-cm)(368 oz-in) holding torque
    3 DM542 driver
    1 Power supply 40V, 7.4Amp
    Mach 3 breakout board
    Router makita 700W (1HP, I know this is low for aluminium but I could not find any other powerful router here, spindle with VFD are very costly like 4 times)
    Ball screw= Two option available 20X5 or 16X16(this is relatively cheap) I was looking for 16by5 but its not available here.
    Guide linear shaft =16mm on X and Y and 12 mm for Z axis

    Router dimension:
    X end-to-end =1meter
    Y end-to-end =1meter
    Z end-to-end = 0.4meter

    I will work on CAD after I finalize the drawing to get all the parts right and fit well. I have no access to big mill and due to Covid shops are shut mostly. So I will do it all by hand with whatever I have. Could you please help me if I am going right.

    I have not purchased anything yet. I am sizing all parts and cost for it. This whole setup translate to 1200 USD so far. It could have been cheaper but china is not shipping to India. So I am buying locally which is little costlier but quality is certain.

    Open to hear from you guys.

    Hey Tony Stark, a fellow CNC enthusiast from India here. I was hoping to contact you as I have some questions on where you sourced your components for our build . Can you give me your email id ? I'm not able to send you personal message for some reason.



  19. #159
    Member mactec54's Avatar
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    Default Re: CNC router build to machine wood and aluminium (1mX1mX0.4m)

    Quote Originally Posted by routalot View Post
    Thats a sound tip if you make a new set of curved grips for every size job that comes along or if you set up for many multiples.An alternative is to buy a basic lathe 3 jaw chuck and mount it on a square backplate.You can bolt the backplate to the table of the machine and with a set of reverse jaws on the shelf,you can hold quite a lot of different sizes very easily.You also have a consistent location for the job's XY datum.
    A chuck can only work if they have enough Z axis travel a normal lathe chuck is twice as high as a vice or best of all you can clamp direct to the table if you don't have enough Z axis travel

    A vice in normally the best with profiled jaws to suit the job if you have enough Z axis travel

    Mactec54


  20. #160
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    Default Re: CNC router build to machine wood and aluminium (1mX1mX0.4m)

    Quote Originally Posted by mactec54 View Post
    A chuck can only work if they have enough Z axis travel a normal lathe chuck is twice as high as a vice or best of all you can clamp direct to the table if you don't have enough Z axis travel

    A vice in normally the best with profiled jaws to suit the job if you have enough Z axis travel
    Maybe in the 15 months since I posted the tip,he will have had time to either build a removable section in the table or to get hold of a model engineer size chuck.Of course,his machine might just have a lot of Z axis travel as many home builds seem to be built with this as a feature-in spite of the challenges it brings.I have to admit that I have been in several machine shops that had added a backplate to a three jaw chuck for use on their mills and it got even better if they had a DRO as they could quickly dial in the centre location and quickly move to any desired location.



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