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Thread: CNC router build to machine wood and aluminium (1mX1mX0.4m)

  1. #81
    Member Pipik's Avatar
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    Default Re: CNC router build to machine wood and aluminium (1mX1mX0.4m)

    pics...

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails CNC router build to machine wood and aluminium (1mX1mX0.4m)-frezka_sm4-jpg   CNC router build to machine wood and aluminium (1mX1mX0.4m)-img_1924-jpg   CNC router build to machine wood and aluminium (1mX1mX0.4m)-img_2352_wrong-jpg  


  2. #82
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    Default Re: CNC router build to machine wood and aluminium (1mX1mX0.4m)

    Hi Pipik, Thank you for the advice. the web was suppose to counter any twisting moment acting on the columns. No doubt weight is important to absorb the vibration and having a heavy machine adds to the rigidity. That is why lathe bases are made of CI which is good in absorbing vibrations.

    Please share your drawing. That will definitely help.

    I can't download or see the attachment.

    -Rupesh


  3. #83
    Member Tony_Stark's Avatar
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    Default Re: CNC router build to machine wood and aluminium (1mX1mX0.4m)

    Hi Pipik, Thank you for the advice. the web was suppose to counter any twisting moment acting on the columns. No doubt weight is important to absorb the vibration and having a heavy machine adds to the rigidity. That is why lathe bases are made of CI which is good in absorbing vibrations.

    Please share your drawing. That will definitely help.

    I can't download or see the attachment.

    -Rupesh


  4. #84
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    Default Re: CNC router build to machine wood and aluminium (1mX1mX0.4m)

    Quote Originally Posted by machinedude View Post
    it's about impossible to indicate a screw because of the pitch of the screw is not suited for locating the concentricity of the shaft, the split sleeve gives you 4 points 90 degrees apart from one another to indicate in so you have next to no run out on your bear block diameters of the shaft. it works really well as long as the sleeve bore is almost a bearing fit. it should just barely fit over the screw with out having to force it before you cut the split in it. once you cut the split it will probably spring open some but that is ok since the chuck will compress it around the shaft when you do the machining. just take your time getting a nice fit over the screw before you split the sleeve so you don't get to much run out.
    Not if you know what to do they are very easy to indicate, either with a round disc for the indicator or a feeler gauge mounted in the tool post of the lathe, this is spring loaded onto the Ballscrew then the indicator can run on this

    No sleeve needed

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails CNC router build to machine wood and aluminium (1mX1mX0.4m)-hpim2481-jpg  
    Mactec54


  5. #85
    Member Tony_Stark's Avatar
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    Default Re: CNC router build to machine wood and aluminium (1mX1mX0.4m)

    This is what I did. Initially i mounted something of this as shown. Later I mounted same thing with more width. To verify the reading, I checked the groove too by sliding the carriage so that dial remains in the groove. The readings are same. former one is easier to do.

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails CNC router build to machine wood and aluminium (1mX1mX0.4m)-img_20200922_202123-jpg  
    -Rupesh


  6. #86
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    Default Re: CNC router build to machine wood and aluminium (1mX1mX0.4m)

    Quote Originally Posted by mactec54 View Post
    Not if you know what to do they are very easy to indicate, either with a round disc for the indicator or a feeler gauge mounted in the tool post of the lathe, this is spring loaded onto the Ballscrew then the indicator can run on this

    No sleeve needed
    nice trick with an aggressive lead screw. but an aluminum sleeve still acts like a set of soft jaws and is extra protection for the screw. so it becomes a matter of preference based on particular needs. the 5 mm pitch screws are not that spacious for indicator work. what ever works i say as long as things are concentric that's the part that matters most.



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