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Thread: GME's New 80/20 CNC Build - My Design

  1. #401
    Member Ntl's Avatar
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    Default Re: GME's New 80/20 CNC Build - My Design

    Thanks Gary and from what I can see it looks really nice. I cringed when I sat down and totaled everything up, there was so much in odds and ends that I didn't factor in orginally. I finally got a proper dust collector which is so nice compared to the shop vac. It's amazing how much quieter the 2hp dust collector is than the little shop vac I was using.

    Looking forward to the finished pictures and a video. Great job with the machine Gary



  2. #402
    Community Moderator ger21's Avatar
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    Default Re: GME's New 80/20 CNC Build - My Design


    Gerry, (ger21), if you happen across this post, feel free to share it wherever you want in conjunction with Joint Cam.

    I posted a link to your post on the JointCAM forum. Thanks for sharing.

    Gerry

    UCCNC 2017 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html

    Mach3 2010 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html

    JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
    http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)


  3. #403

    Default Re: GME's New 80/20 CNC Build - My Design

    Just for reference - I am reading through forum posts to get up to speed on AVID's Pro series kits. In talking to AVID, they said their leg kit uses an ultra lite 80/20 section and their table (rails and cross members) used the heavier section.



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    Default Re: GME's New 80/20 CNC Build - My Design

    I bought a Pro series kit with standard base a couple of years ago. Avid is very willing to modify to suit customer needs. I believe base parts can be easily up graded to 40 series at extra cost.

    These machines are fairly light, if you're considering doing commercial work. I've braced mine to my poured concrete foundation walls and all flex is gone. I initially was running feeds of 200 IPM with 600 IPM rapids, no problems. I've since slowed things down a bit for safety.



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    Default Re: GME's New 80/20 CNC Build - My Design

    Quote Originally Posted by GME View Post
    Here is my joinery jig designed to cut standard joinery off the front edge of my CNC. Although it's my design, I borrowed heavily from the Leigh D4 series commercial jigs. In fact, I did more than borrow from the jig design, I also borrowed the clamps and springs from the D4 jig I've owned for many years. The clamps are the black ones at the top and front corners.

    GME's New 80/20 CNC Build - My Design-img_0689-jpg

    The base for the jig composed of 2 pieces of 80/20 smooth extrusion, 1.5" x 4.5" x 42". If you look closely at the front, you will see 5 holes drilled in the top slot. The holes are for access to button head cap screws used to attach the two extrusions together. When connected, I have 4.5" of height at the front and 6" of depth across the top.

    The stock is clamped using a 1.25 x 1.25 x 42" x .125" wall square aluminum tube. 5/16" studs cut from threaded rod are attached to 80/20 fasteners captured in the extrusion slots and held rigid with a 5/16" nut.

    You can also see 3 holes in the aluminum tube, 2 with studs and the one in the center open. The studs are readily removable. They allow me to use any width of stock and be able to tightly hold it in place. I have some 5/16" knobs on order, which I'll use to tighten down the tube.

    GME's New 80/20 CNC Build - My Design-img_0691-jpg

    This is a closer shot to the right side. You can see vertical and horizontal pieces of 1" x 1/8" thick aluminum bar stock used as a material stop. The same arrangement is on the left side. Cut the vertical side a little long, so the top extended about 1/8" above the horizontal face of the extrusions. I used a square to align the vertical face, and the 1/8" projection gave me a hard surface to use to align the horizontal stop perpendicular to the vertical.

    GME's New 80/20 CNC Build - My Design-img_0701-jpg

    This is a closeup shot of the right side from a different angle. You can see the stops and how they attach. You can see the compressed screen behind the vertical tubing clamp

    GME's New 80/20 CNC Build - My Design-img_0699-jpg


    This photos show the side of the aluminum tube that contacts the stock. The red material is 220 grit glued on sandpaper. I learned that stock can slip on the Leigh jig and sandpaper cured the problem.

    You will also note that the large holes in the tubing. I cut them on my mill. They are large enough to allow the springs to easily go inside the tube, and are large enough to go over the nuts holding the studs captive. That means I can clamp all the way down to the surface of the stops, which allow me to use stock that is thicker than the 1/8" thickness of the stops. I doubt I'll be cutting much on stock in the 1/8"-1/4" range, but I will have the capacity.

    There is big difference between the Leigh jig and mine. The Leigh jig uses fingers to position stock vertically and horizontally, and has a large void in the body to allow the cutters to enter the stock without contacting the jig body or parts. That cannot be easily replicated using 80/20. My solution follows:

    GME's New 80/20 CNC Build - My Design-img_0693-jpg

    My solution is a 1" thick piece of acrylic with tapped holes and a 1/4" thick piece of aluminum bar stock screwed to it.

    GME's New 80/20 CNC Build - My Design-img_0703-jpg

    Here is another shot of it in place. I made it large enough to use the clamp to hold it in place with the top bar clamp. I just clamp the stop in place slide the stock up until it makes contact. This stop will work with 3/4" thick and thinner stock. I'll need to make a different stop of thicker stock. I probably won't be making many dovetails in thicker stock, but I will definitely be making tenons in thicker material.

    GME's New 80/20 CNC Build - My Design-img_0696-jpg

    Finally, there is the question of how to attach the jig to my spoilboard so I have a rigid connection that won't interfere with stock mounted horizontally, as when making single pass half-blind dovetails. My solution was 3 pieces of 1.5" x 1.5" aluminum angle. As is the usual case, the two faces of the aluminum angle were not perpendicular. They were close, but no cigar. I use my mill to square the faces, and drill the holes. Using 80/20 fasteners, I was able to slide the angle until it aligned with my t-slots and used 1/4" studs and slide-in t-nuts to hold the jig in place. I ended up with a rock solid connection.

    Oh, one other thing. I believe I mentioned it in a previous post, but I ran a cutter across the front edge of the spoilboard to establish a straight edge perpendicular to the Y-axis. So, I just but the jig up against the front edge, tighten it down, and I'm good to go. No other alignment necessary.

    I am happy to answer questions. No secrets here.

    Gerry, (ger21), if you happen across this post, feel free to share it wherever you want in conjunction with Joint Cam. If you have suggestions where I might post this elsewhere, I'm open to suggestions.

    Gary
    I like to see your jig in action... shoot some video of it next time your running some material through it. I've been thinking of a design and how to make one for a bit now..

    Adam,

    G540, Rack and Pinion Drives-X/Y axis, 1/2-Ball Screw-Z Axis w/THK HSR 25 Linear Slides, Steppers KL23H2100-35-4B, Power Supply-KL-600-48


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GME's New 80/20 CNC Build - My Design

GME's New 80/20 CNC Build - My Design

GME's New 80/20 CNC Build - My Design