Hi Wizard - can you attach a photo for us down in -Z world? of the GRK screws. Peter
Hi Wiz -I looked them up. Great screws. I dislike posi or phillips heads. Star drive is great, big head, good thread. Can't get them in OZ Peter
I wouldn’t even consider a return to old fashion screws these days for most of the things I’m using wood screws for. I’ve been using GRK cabinet screws, GRK general purpose screws, GRK construction screws and the hanger screws recommended by the hanger manufactures. Frankly it is like the best thing since sliced bread. Every screw has its use, even old fashion wood screws, but my go to screws are all of modern design.
Hi Wizard - can you attach a photo for us down in -Z world? of the GRK screws. Peter
Hi Wiz -I looked them up. Great screws. I dislike posi or phillips heads. Star drive is great, big head, good thread. Can't get them in OZ Peter
Last edited by peteeng; 04-18-2019 at 04:18 PM.
That will work for some situations but what I was thinking about here is running the screws into the bearing blocks. You would end up with a sandwich of sorts. Bearing block > buffer plate (optional) > wood product > buffer plate. The bolts would go through everything into the tapped holes in the bearing blocks. Your approach would of course work where required.
I would never dismiss an option out of hand!! Just use the right item for the task at hand.
I think tee-nuts are out, 1/4" cold rolled, drilled and tapped.
Just remember that boat building is a different art altogether. Often with fiber constructed vehicles they have to address the reality of soft core materials.From some of my research on the boat building forms I see they counter bore all the bolt holes and pour an "epoxy annulus" to help with side loads for rigging and winches. I'm thinking about doing this also.
It depends a great deal upon what I’m doing at the time. Often it is hardware store epoxy with a long open time. Fast set epoxies have their uses but for anything beyond a minor glue up they just set way too fast. If I need a lot of epoxy it is probably West Systems as the local Woodcraft carries it. If you want to impregnate glass cloth or Other fillers, you obviously need larger amounts of epoxy which is where the likes of the WestSystem comes into play.What epoxy type brands would you recommend for embedding inserts or building "epoxy annulus" in wood?
How do I cut Plywood? Do you know any good routertable?
Well that sucks! Maybe you should become an importer, sounds like a business opportunity.
By the way the heads are one of the reasons I’ve been using the screws from GRK a lot. Remodeling and house repairs have been taking up a lot of my time. The GRK hardware makes it possible to do things one couldn’t with Phillips drives (at least not easily).
In any event back to other possible screw solutions. For light work self tapping sheet metal screws, say of 1” length, can be used to mount items not subject to stress. You may need a pilot hole in hardwood plywood. The nice thing here is astraightfully threaded shank with a pan head. The bad is that most that I’ve found are Phillips drive. That straight shank as opposed to the tapered shank on conventional wood screws, makes for far easier installation.
I have to agree that a straight, parallel shank is highly desirable.I also drill pilot holes for all screws-it ensures they go where intended and in solid wood in particular,it reduces the chance of splitting.House carpenters in a hurry have different priorities.
Hi All - Like Gerry I generally use metal thread screws (cap screws or hex heads) if its on wood machine. I use an intermediate tap so the screw goes into the taper (and snugs up) and I use PVA glue to set the screw. Never loosens and if the screw is long pulls up nicely. But always on the lookout for better...Peter