New DIY build - design suggestions/ideas welcome


Page 1 of 26 123411 ... LastLast
Results 1 to 12 of 308

Thread: New DIY build - design suggestions/ideas welcome

  1. #1
    Registered
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    UK
    Posts
    311
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default New DIY build - design suggestions/ideas welcome

    Hey guys,

    So over the last week or so I've been designing myself a replacement table top router for my current x6-2200L (a 6040 style machine but has 20mm HG type linear rails), pictured here, i'll be transferring the electronics across since I've already upgraded those (pokeys57cnc controller and leadshine closed loop easy servo motors and drives).

    Current machine


    Design Brief for new machine:

    - Improve upon the work area size whilst the footprint has to stay within similar limits to the current machine
    - Increase rigidity compared to previous machine. Current one is fairly good but room for improvement, especially on the Y-axis.
    - Spindle mount must allow tramming
    - Dual motor Y-axis due to increased weight of beefed up gantry and to allow automatic squaring.
    - Machine must be general purpose, I need to cut everything from aluminium to plastics and carbon fibre/FR4)
    - Good shielding of motion components from dust/chips without limiting travel.


    So this is an overview of the new design, individual parts I'll show in more detail further down. The red strips above the rails is just 1mm silicone strip to help act as a dust shield.










    Y-Axis:

    - Primarily constructed from 45x90mm heavy profile, 45x45 profile, 20mm precision ground solid plate for tool plate, and 20mm plate for corner pieces.
    - Motion components: HGR20 x 4, HGH20CA x 8, FK12 x 2, FF12 x 2, MBA10-C x 2, TBI 1605 Ground C5 ball screw and nut x 2
    - Total span 1000mm, Travel 750mm.
    - Permanent water tray to contain chips/coolant and also for cutting CF fully submerged. Constructed from 12mm Acetyl, 5mm Acrylic and finished with 10mm Aluminium tool plate. G1/4 drain point at front.










    X-Axis:

    - Primarily constructed from 40x160 Heavy ITM profile, 20mm precision ground solid plate for gantry arms.
    - Motion components: HGR20 x 2, HGH20CA x 2, FK12 x 1, FF12 x 1, MBA10-C x 1, TBI 1605 Ground C5 Ball Screw and nut x 1
    - Total Span 550mm, Travel 395mm.








    Z-Axis:

    - Primarily constructed from 20mm and 15mm precision ground plate. 80mm Spindle mount from CNC router parts.
    - Motion components: HGR25 x 2, HGH25CA x 2, FK12 x 1, MBA10-C x 1, TBI 1604 Ground C5 Ball Screw and nut x 1
    - Tram adjustable +/- 1 degree
    - Total Span 250mm, Travel 165mm









    So, I'm contemplating building this in the next couple of months - would like to see if you guys point out any easy improvements or additions. I am aware of course that this is not the most low cost machine I'll ever have built, but I'm after something with high precision and rigidity while having a decent work area. Still need to design a few little bits like cable chain mounts and ref switch mounts etc.

    Similar Threads:


  2. #2
    Community Moderator ger21's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    United States
    Posts
    32785
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default Re: New DIY build - design suggestions/ideas welcome

    Double the gantry side thickness, and get rid of the double rails on the sides. They add almost nothing, except for cost.

    Gerry

    UCCNC 2017 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html

    Mach3 2010 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html

    JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
    http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)


  3. #3
    Registered
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    UK
    Posts
    311
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default Re: New DIY build - design suggestions/ideas welcome

    Hi Ger,

    Thanks for the input - I thought the double rail would help prevent gantry rocking, given that the arms are fairly long the lever arm trying to rock the carriages is fairly significant with lateral cutting loads. By adding the second rail this should mean that any tiny radial play in the rail won't be able to cause any gantry movement.... the second bonus I was thinking is that it's another two (left and right) 20mm steel rail to add to the stiffness of the Y-span. Is there truly nothing to be gained from it?

    I'm working on fairly restrictive dimensions as I need to fit it in an enclosure on the CNC table I built. I'm not sure I can double the arm thickness without losing work area which is one of my main motives for the upgrade. In the current design it is 20mm, I have had a play and I can increase to 25mm while still fitting within the dimensions as long as I inset the motor further, but that's the maximum before I start running into issues. Do you think 25mm will be sufficient (current machine is 15mm) or should I consider losing work area to add thickness here?

    Thanks for the reply.



  4. #4
    Community Moderator ger21's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    United States
    Posts
    32785
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default Re: New DIY build - design suggestions/ideas welcome

    I thought the double rail would help prevent gantry rocking, given that the arms are fairly long the lever arm trying to rock the carriages is fairly significant with lateral cutting loads.
    The only way that the sides can rotate the bearings, is if the joint between the sides and gantry beam has moved or opened, or if the sides are bending. You're cutting forces are not going to be all that high on such a small machine, with a spindle like that.

    I think that your weak point is the Z axis. I'd prefer 4 smaller bearings vs the 2 larger ones, spreading them out a bit more. And

    Gerry

    UCCNC 2017 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html

    Mach3 2010 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html

    JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
    http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)


  5. #5
    Registered
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    UK
    Posts
    311
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default Re: New DIY build - design suggestions/ideas welcome

    Hmm ok thanks.

    Regarding the z-axis, I upgraded from 20mm to 25mm rail due to only having 2 carriages in an attempt to keep decent travel without too large a unit. I could downgrade to 20mm and see if I can do something that keeps the motor and ball screw roughly where there are while adding a second carriage to each rail.

    Would 4 x 20mm carriage be a significant improvement over 2 x 25mm on that axis in your opinion?

    I think you cut off your reply by the way, it finishes in "And"



  6. #6
    Registered
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    UK
    Posts
    311
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default Re: New DIY build - design suggestions/ideas welcome

    I've had a play and I think I can redesign the X-axis to use 4x HGH20CA carriages with minimal increase in overall size and still maintaining the 160mm travel... I'll go to work on that.



  7. #7
    Registered
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    966
    Downloads
    1
    Uploads
    0

    Default Re: New DIY build - design suggestions/ideas welcome

    Your system of hiding the motion parts behind brushes / covers is interesting. However it will probably reduce rigidity as you are reducing contact area.

    7xCNC.com - CNC info for the minilathe (7x10, 7x12, 7x14, 7x16)


  8. #8
    Registered
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    UK
    Posts
    311
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default Re: New DIY build - design suggestions/ideas welcome

    Maybe a little, but it's all milled from solid plate and the pieces that attach to the "risers" are 20mm thick and have a short span. I don't expect it to cause too many issues but we shall see!

    Re-design of the Z-axis based on Ger's feedback... it now has 4x HGH20CA carriages and 2x HGR20R rails. Overall length has grown by 6 mm but travel is maintained at 165mm. I've also changed over to the RoverCNC spindle mount as it looks significantly more beefy.












  9. #9
    Registered
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
    Location
    Canada
    Posts
    113
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default Re: New DIY build - design suggestions/ideas welcome

    Looks good. Everything been mentioned so far, but
    Youd be fine with just 3 frame supports, not 4
    What are the red end caps for?

    Luthier/Woodworker/Machinist in NS, Canada.


  10. #10
    Registered
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    966
    Downloads
    1
    Uploads
    0

    Default Re: New DIY build - design suggestions/ideas welcome

    Agree that spindle mount looks better

    7xCNC.com - CNC info for the minilathe (7x10, 7x12, 7x14, 7x16)


  11. #11
    Community Moderator ger21's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    United States
    Posts
    32785
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default Re: New DIY build - design suggestions/ideas welcome

    Quote Originally Posted by pippin88 View Post
    Agree that spindle mount looks better
    +1... Much Better

    Gerry

    UCCNC 2017 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html

    Mach3 2010 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html

    JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
    http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)


  12. #12
    Gold Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Sweden
    Posts
    1845
    Downloads
    2
    Uploads
    0

    Default Re: New DIY build - design suggestions/ideas welcome

    I'd remove the dual rails from the side, would turn the rails 90 degrees so that the gantry is resting on the rails and would spend more time on the Z. Basically, you need to add a plate which is lowered with the spindle so that the spindle motor is attached to the plate at it's lowest part, not at the top as you have designed. I would not care about the brushes on the Z, you will spend too much time on that part without much benefit. Spend the time on figuring out a good dust extraction system, or at least a dust shoe which you can easily remove when needed. A far too compact Z design will punish you in the end. I would also make the machine taller to allow more separation between the X rails. That would increase the rigidity a lot.

    Edit:
    Another thing... why not making those end-plates from one piece on each end of the Y axis? What is the benefit of using two plates on each end, instead of just one?



Page 1 of 26 123411 ... LastLast

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  


About CNCzone.com

    We are the largest and most active discussion forum for manufacturing industry. The site is 100% free to join and use, so join today!

Follow us on


Our Brands

New DIY build - design suggestions/ideas welcome

New DIY build - design suggestions/ideas welcome