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Thread: Sidewinder CNC 2

  1. #13
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    Default Re: Sidewinder CNC 2

    Yeah, it's tough being a Canuck. in this hobby.
    China is generally your best bet for fair shipping policies, often better than what's available within our own country.
    Also many (most ?) Chinese vendors will provide those rails and screws to your drawings for petty change. Try getting that done locally
    while keeping all your limbs.

    The Kronos Robotics machines look pretty sweet though not super-cheap to build.
    Kronos Robotics

    And if your shop is poorly equipped all of this becomes much harder.

    Anyone who says "It only goes together one way" has no imagination.


  2. #14
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    Default Re: Sidewinder CNC 2

    D. Gatton's design is a simple and straight forward machine suitable for the hobbyist and light use. I'm not sure if I would attempt to cut aluminum on it but for wood it is adequate. I was in your shoes a while back trying to decide on a build direction. Long story short I designed my own machine based upon Gatton's and CNC Router Parts machine. Using extrusions was simply to expensive for use as a hobby machine, $1,498 to be exact so I opted for 3/4" Baltic birch. The cost of my wooden machine complete less software was less than what it would have cost me just for the 8020 extrusion.

    My wooden machine has proved very reliable, it is fairly fast yielding excellent results at 100ipm and after some initial breakin on the angle iron rails the machine is tight and rigid.

    http://www.cnczone.com/forums/diy-cn...ghlight=plcamp



  3. #15
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    Default Re: Sidewinder CNC 2

    Quote Originally Posted by atarijeff View Post
    This will be a budget conscience build, especially with the Canadian dollar in the tank right now effectively doubling the price of most parts to my door after taxes and delivery.

    Design Goals:
    • Primarily constructed of 3/4" Maple ply. Bolted and/or glued. Boxed construction.
    • Cutting area of 24"x48".
    • Aimed at milling soft materials (wood, plastic, thin gauge aluminum). Composites such as CF would be a bonus but I don't know enough about cutting/cooling requirements at this time.
    • Air cooled. The router I am using (Rigid kit R29303 2HP 10K-23K RPM) vents through the bottom but I could add more airflow if needed.
    • Lead screws will be ACME precision or ball screw. Direct drive with proper anti-backlash mechanisms.
    • Control system will be Gecko G540. Stepper specs TBD but driven at 48V.
    • Parts available through local vendors, eBay, international friendly.
    First there is nothing wrong with wood construction for a machine that is intended to machine wood or other materials commonly done dry. It is when you talk about aluminum that I start to worry because if you want to do more than a trivial amount you really want to be using a coolant and lube. Fluids and wood don't mix well.

    So what I'm saying is that if you go the wood route don't expect to be doing a lot of aluminum. Especially aluminum so that have a tendency to weld to the cutters.

    24x48 is very doable in an all wood design just make sure you create the components out of box structures. Your goal is strong twist resistant components. One approach here is torsion boxes. However you might want to consider engineered lumber, for some components, which is an idea that has been floating through my head lately. I'm thinking PSL lumber here,

    Don't assume a voltage for your steppers. In an ideal world power supplies would be selected based on the steppers inductance. The Gecko web sight has a document that can help you understand power supply selection.
    Linear Drive Decisions (Economy or DIY):

    V-Groove Bearings and Aluminum/Steel Angle
    Pros
    • Easy to acquire parts.
    • Easy to assemble.
    • Likely to give good performance initially.

    Cons
    • Bearings are pricey.
    • Performance is likely to degrade quickly.
    • Even with proper hardened and ground rails I've come across some complaints of too much play side to side in the bearings. Adding compensation adds complexity.


    Roller Bearings on Pipe/EMT Conduit (Solsylva style)
    Pros
    • Easy to acquire parts.
    • More complex to assemble but still not too hard.
    • Captures bearing/block to rail so should give very minimal play.

    Cons
    • Accuracy and straightness of pipe/EMT is questionable.
    • Seems likely to wear quickly.
    • Using threaded rod to support rail seems like it would introduce flex and/or alignment issues.
    I'd certainly look into the cost of supported round rails.
    Linear Rail and Ballscrew Package (from China)

    Sample eBay Link -> 3 Set SBR16 Linear Rail ballscrew RM1605 350 900 1200mm BK BF12 End Bearing CNC | eBay

    Attachment 304398

    Pros
    • Quality and precision.
    • Includes most of what you would need for drive mechanism.
    • Not in the stratosphere for cost.

    Cons
    • Quality? and precision? although 100% feedback rating for a Chinese supplier is pretty rare.
    • Most expensive of the DIY options.


    At this point I'm favoring the eBay linear rail and ballscrew package but it's not final as of yet.
    Ball screws are an interesting discussion, sometimes you are better off with acme in dusty environments.



  4. #16
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    Default Re: Sidewinder CNC 2

    Do you have the plans? i would love to have them.



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