It's 2.715" Measured mine. I'll probably make something up in solidworks and make my own.
It's 2.715" Measured mine. I'll probably make something up in solidworks and make my own.
I guess the K2 Bosh Colt Mount would work.
This colt mount should work also:
http://www.zenbotcnc.com/mounts
Messing around with Microcarve. I am going to buy this app I think.
I use MicroCarve V4 quite a bit, it is a great little program. No frills, good basic functionality. I have made some great lithophanes with it as well as Celtic carvings.
Don
What kind of bit sizes and shapes are you using with Microcarve? I just got some 1/16" bits, http://i.imgur.com/p4sUH.jpg , and they have been working the best so far.
I usually do a roughing pass with 1/8" ball nose and 15-20% stepover then a finishing pass with a 1/16" ball nose with a 7-10% step over. This works well generally but if you want to go super fine detail you can go to a small/narrow V carve bit with a 5-10% step over and the detail can amazing. Just remember, the machining time with the v bit and narrow point, small stepover can be pretty long. Results are spectacular on lithophanes, you can do small lithophanes (2x3") with tremendous detail..... Most of my stuff is done with a 1/16" ball nose, sometimes a 1/32" ball nose. Material is typically corian.
Don
My first part, a router mount. Its wrong as I only know how to use PyCam to do engraving(Gravure) at the moment and it traced the line instead of cutting out the outline but its a step in the right direction.
Fixed!
I found this mount design on here somewhere. The compression tabs were really thin for wood so I fattened them up some. Anyone else needs a wood mount for a Dewalt DWP611, the DXF is attached below.
Are you going to remake your router with oak?
If so, I have a few suggestions.
First I'd use baltic birch plywood, or bamboo plywood because they are much more dimensionally stable than oak (and strong in all directions.)
Second, if I was going to use oak, I'd make all my critical pieces, especially the risers go with the grain of the oak. If I understand what you have laid out, your risers might fail due to a crack along the grain. (edit, after looking more closely at your picture, it appears that is oak plywood not solid oak. correct?)
Third, if I did use plywood, I'd still pay attention the the face grain. In many cases the long axis of the face grain is more resistant to bending than the across the grain.
Last edited by DonFrambach; 07-09-2012 at 12:05 AM. Reason: added "edit"
Do you fit stepper motor 3A
http://ram-e-shop.com/oscmax/catalog...p57HZ76-13.JPG
Do you fit motors 3A
Its Oak plywood and after I cut out my pieces they will get a coat of Minwax Wood Hardener on them just in case
So I am carving along when all of a sudden.......
....
I'd heard about a batch of chinese motors a few years ago that
had that exact same problem. I hope there's not more of them to come.
The problem was bad welds of the shaft to the motor rotor. I'd always assumed
before that that the shaft was all the way through the rotor, so I
was surprised to find out they weld them.
Also, some assumed it was due to solid straight couplings. Which isn't
exactly true. It was just bad welds, pure and simple. No shaft should
crack off so easily on any motor of any sort. I've used solid couplings
in the thousands and never have seen a cracked off motor shaft....and
I've seen some serious mistakes on some of my machines.
Sorry to see that....
John
It has happened to me on a 380 oz motor also, and it had a Delrin coupler from DumpsterCNC on the shaft. The weld is a fused joint from not high enough current applied. There is only a small pit slightly off center that was holding the shafts together.
CarveOne
http://www.carveonecncwoodcraft.com