MDF Madness

[LouF]

It's all C1's fault he started P Box not to be confused with PO Box..


Lou

[CarveOne]

Most things that go wrong usually are my fault. At least it is around my place. ( Sometimes it's intentional. )

[lancut]

Hi All for the reply's. Since I don't have a Vectric software and is not likely option.. I have to design my own. My question would be, at what angles are the slots in the side pieces in relation to either top or the bottom. What is used to fill the carved groves that it makes them to stand out? Thanks.

[CarveOne]

You can come up with something similar if you can draw in a CAD program of some sort. The Pbox design has a U shaped pocket in the side panels that the front, side, and rear panels plug into. The pocket is 0.125" deep. I would recommend making it 0.185" or 0.25" deep. The parts are just glued together. The bottom panel fits between the side panels. The length of the top panel needs to be sized to allow small gaps to the side panels.

I'm not sure I understand your last question. I stain the boxes with a lighter color liquid stain (usually something like MinWax Early American) and use a darker color jel stain in the Vcarvings and fill patterns like my basket weave. Gel stains don't flow through the wood pores and come out where you don't need it to go.

If you mean the angles on the edges of the side panels I can measure it but isn't something critical. Whatever looks about right to you is ok. Some people make it 90 degrees because they don't like the sloped side panels. When you draw it yourself, anything goes.

[r00t4rd3d]

Pbox DXF

[lancut]

Thanks again for the reply's . Now I got a starting point. C1, thanks for the gel stain suggestion, I have never used before so it going to a learning experience.
r00t4rd3d,Thank you for the dxf files. Now I need to find some stl weave files. I'm sure some are floating on the nest for download.. Soon I finish my
drive system conversion (from1/2-10 acme to 5/8 ball screws) This will be my next project. Thanks again fellas.

[lancut]

@r00t4rd3d

Just opened the DXF, and was pleasantly surprised to see vcarve ready graphics on the top and front panel. Thanks again.

[cdrd03]

Lancut

I only have cut 2d from vectric and all the monthly projects that vectric put out is made for v carve pro or Aspire. I have found that I can cut the VCP files as long as I can use the same settings that the file was created for (ie...bit size and feeds/speeds). It is a nice work around until I can get VCP. There are also some very generous vectric users that if asked, will modify a file to meet your needs. Over all it is some very useful software even with the limitations of Cut2d.

Chuck

[CarveOne]

Thanks again for the reply's . Now I got a starting point. C1, thanks for the gel stain suggestion, I have never used before so it going to a learning experience.
r00t4rd3d,Thank you for the dxf files. Now I need to find some stl weave files. I'm sure some are floating on the nest for download.. Soon I finish my
drive system conversion (from1/2-10 acme to 5/8 ball screws) This will be my next project. Thanks again fellas.

The first time I tried gel stain many years ago I didn't like it either. Now that I know how it works it makes all the difference in my projects. Crisp, well defined edges for the text and other V-carvings, and the antiqued looks I can get from it is just what I needed for my basket weave projects. Now I'm a big fan of gel stain. Apply it, then wipe off to the shade you want. I apply two moderately heavy coats of polyurethane to my parts and allow to dry overnight. Then I carve it. The polyurethane acts as the paint mask for text and V-carvings. The gel stain is left in the carvings and the gel stain on the top surface is buffed off before it dries. Using a folded paper towel with a few drops of paint thinner on the paper towel will cleanly remove the remaining gel stain from the polyurethane layer without affecting the stained carvings. For the carved basket weave areas I apply the gel stain with a brush and then buff it back off to the color shade or antiqued effect I want with an old T-shirt. Then apply a couple of coats of spray clear satin polyurethane.

[r00t4rd3d]

One piece at a time.

[r00t4rd3d]

How many people dont like the side bar fly out thing not staying closed any longer?



Well, seems to stay closed now, thanks Paul!

[r00t4rd3d]

Quick sign I did.

[CarveOne]

Looks good. The stained oak gives it good character.

The red oak address sign I made for my driveway has lasted about three years with polyurethane on it. It needs replacement with a new one this year. I'll use marine spar varnish on it this time. It's supposed to have UV protectant in it and is more water resistant.

[LouF]

Good looking sign.


Lou

[r00t4rd3d]

Carve have you tried this stuff? Minwax Helmsman Spar Urethane. Works pretty good and its not as expensive as the marine grade stuff.

[lancut]

While reading posts in this thread I stumbled on PBox project and was able to download the dxf files along with ideas how to finish it.. Here is my rendition of it. All red oak except the sides which are zebra wood. The box is big, so I'm contemplating a bit smaller size maybe 3/4 of the full size maintaining the same wood thickness...

[r00t4rd3d]

Looks good lancut. Get some General Finishes gel stain next, it will make your cuts stand out much better then regular liquid stain. I got the DXF files to a smaller pbox in this thread some place I think.

Here is a smaller Pbox DXF for 1/2" thick wood. You can see what it looks like in post #91, I used 3/4" wood for the sides on that one though.

[keithstanley]

A good looking box Iancut; WELL DONE!

[CarveOne]

Carve have you tried this stuff? Minwax Helmsman Spar Urethane. Works pretty good and its not as expensive as the marine grade stuff.

I used it many years ago on a portable fold-up shooting bench and it worked pretty well but it didn't stay out in the weather. I think what I used on the 2' x 3' Celtic driveway sign I made for someone else last fall was a Valspar product.

[lancut]

Looks good lancut. Get some General Finishes gel stain next, it will make your cuts stand out much better then regular liquid stain. I got the DXF files to a smaller pbox in this thread some place I think.

Here is a smaller Pbox DXF for 1/2" thick wood. You can see what it looks like in post #91, I used 3/4" wood for the sides on that one though.

Thanks. I was using 'aged oak' gel stain but left the centers untouched. The picture don't do a justice it looks much better live. Thanks to all who reply, and thank you for the half sized box dimensions.