Router Bits and EndMills: Pictures, Descriptions, and Uses


Page 1 of 15 123411 ... LastLast
Results 1 to 20 of 290

Thread: Router Bits and EndMills: Pictures, Descriptions, and Uses

  1. #1
    Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    5516
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default Router Bits and EndMills: Pictures, Descriptions, and Uses

    I don't think there's a thread like this anywhere, so I'm starting one. I use a wide assortment of router bits and endmills on my machine, for a variety of tasks. While some bits can be used for different material and purposes, they work optimally when used for the process and materials they were designed for.

    Before I begin, here's how I currently sort them all. The packages below show all the spares I keep on hand. These are mostly the smaller bits which get used frequently and are susceptible to breakage.

    Similar Threads:
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Router Bits and EndMills: Pictures, Descriptions, and Uses-imag0859-jpg  


  2. #2
    Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    5516
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default

    These are not presented in any particular order other than from my larger to smaller bits. These are all 1/2" shank:

    First bit is my single flute mortise compression spiral. I use this for most profiling tasks in hardwoods. Having a single flute allows me to run higher spindle speeds, and allow easier chip evacuation. These are called mortise compression because the upcut section is smaller, allowing downcut action on mortises, grooves and dadoes, etc. LMT/Onsrud

    Next we have a PCD rougher/finisher. PCD stands for PolyCrystalline Diamond. The edge is serrated, allowing it to break up fibrous and fiber-reinforced material such as G10 Garolite. these bits can last up to 100 times as long as carbide in such material. Normally super expensive, you can find them at deep discount on eBay. LMT/Onsrud (retail: $615(!), ebay: $49)

    Third bit is a 2-flute downcut rougher/finishser. The downcut keeps a nice finish on the top surface, and the serrated flutes break up the chips, allowing the bit to cut without excessive force (or allowing higher feedrates). These can also be used for pocketing and mortising, and I use these normally on hardwood and hardwood plywood.

    Fourth bit is a wide mortise bit. I use this as a spoilboard surfacing bit, as a dedicated one can run upwards of $200-$400. This cost under $50. Amana

    Fifth bit is an insert V-bit, 90 degree. The idea is that since the carbide is not brazed, it can be made of a harder compound, and thus can stay sharper longer. The carbide is also reversible and sharpenable on the flat. As unwieldy as it looks, this bit is actually well-balanced and leaves an excellent finish. And unlike many tipped V-bits, this one comes to an exact point. Amana

    Sixth bit is a 1" core-box bit. I use this for general carving and shaping of smooth curvevd surfaces, as this leaves smaller scallops than a smaller bit.

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Router Bits and EndMills: Pictures, Descriptions, and Uses-imag0861-jpg   Router Bits and EndMills: Pictures, Descriptions, and Uses-imag0864-jpg   Router Bits and EndMills: Pictures, Descriptions, and Uses-imag0865-jpg   Router Bits and EndMills: Pictures, Descriptions, and Uses-imag0867-jpg  

    Router Bits and EndMills: Pictures, Descriptions, and Uses-imag0868-jpg   Router Bits and EndMills: Pictures, Descriptions, and Uses-imag0883-jpg  


  3. #3
    Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    5516
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default

    On to the smaller bits and endmills:

    First group are single-"O"-flute endmills used mainly for aluminum roughing. What's nice about these endmills is that they can be run at higher spindle speeds which could cause multi-flute bits to gall. The two spiral-"O"-flute bits are used mainly for harder aluminum alloys and cast aluminum plate. The slow spiral-"o" flute is used for soft aluminum; the low helix angle allows a chip to form and break off, which helps with normally stringy metals. It is also coated to help prevent edge build-up. The Spiral-O's really get chips out of the way, and are a big help in profile cutting. They leave a good finish, but not as good as a multi-flute bit. There are different types; one with a sharp tip, and one with a "sweeper" tip that leaves a better pocket floor finish. These also work well with brass and plastics. They also cut hardwoods extrememly well, and I use a 1/16" regularly for guitar work. All bits LMT/Onsrud

    Next bit is a 1/4" 3-flute aluminum rougher. Like the wood roughers above, the flutes are serrated, which breaks up chips and reduces cutting forces. Destiny Tool

    Third bit is a fiberglass burr/router bit. Unlike a conventional burr that abrades, these are actually cross-hatched flutes (14 in all) that cut. Again, for tough material like fiberglass-reinforced Garolite, these chew through the material and wear better than a conventional straight bit. LMT/Onsrud

    Fourth pic is a .024" 2-flute endmill that I use for slotting guitar fingerboards. Don't let the delicate look fool you; I run these at 1XD at 60-70ipm! This is actually an aluminum endmill, but the larger flutes normally associated with aluminum endmills makes them work on hardwoods well. Kodiak Cutting Tools

    Fifth pic shows two 3-flute aluminum cutting endmills. The left pic is a WIDIA Hanita, and the right is a Niagara. While the Niagara cuts well and leaves a very good finish, the Hanita outperforms it, due to the very highly polished flutes, and asymmetrical flute geometry makes it run smoother. I use 3-flute mainly for finish passes, though they can work well for roughing. I reduce my spindle speed about 30% compared to a 2-flute endmill.

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Router Bits and EndMills: Pictures, Descriptions, and Uses-imag0871-jpg   Router Bits and EndMills: Pictures, Descriptions, and Uses-imag0872-jpg   Router Bits and EndMills: Pictures, Descriptions, and Uses-imag0873-jpg   Router Bits and EndMills: Pictures, Descriptions, and Uses-imag0874-jpg  

    Router Bits and EndMills: Pictures, Descriptions, and Uses-imag0875-jpg  


  4. #4
    Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    5516
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default

    This is Amana's InGroove insert signmaking set. Like the V-Bit above, the inserts are a harder carbde grade and can be honed. A nice feature is that when switching cutters, no re-zeroing is necessary. I have quarter round, flat, V, and a couple engraving cutters. They leave crisp edges, even in melamine and plywood. You can engrave aluminum with the V and engraving inserts, but you are depth limited to .005".

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Router Bits and EndMills: Pictures, Descriptions, and Uses-imag0876-jpg  


  5. #5
    Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    5516
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default

    Two 1/2" straight bit, two purposes. The left is an MDF bit by Onsrud. The right is a general purpose bit by Bosch. As you can see, the Onsrud bit has larger flutes less tip rake, and a larger center clearance area between flutes. The Bosch, made mainly for handheld applications, has smaller clearances which help with kickback. These bits should be ramped or helixed in.

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Router Bits and EndMills: Pictures, Descriptions, and Uses-imag0877-jpg  


  6. #6
    Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    5516
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default

    The left pic is a 90 degree drill-mill. These can be used for drilling, edging, chamfering, and I use this with OneCNC's hole recognition wizard to drill and chamfer in one step.


    On the right, I have 10 Kyocera 1/8" spiral-"O"-flute endmills. These are designed mainly for plastics, but I think they should work for aluminum as well. I got these 10 for $29 on eBay; that's about the cost of a single one from Onsrud.

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Router Bits and EndMills: Pictures, Descriptions, and Uses-imag0879-jpg   Router Bits and EndMills: Pictures, Descriptions, and Uses-imag0880-jpg  
    Last edited by louieatienza; 03-26-2012 at 11:26 PM.


  7. #7
    Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    5516
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default

    For the frequently used and smaller endmills, I keep extras on-hand. General-purpose endmills, even in solid carbide as most of mine are, are not that expensive really. I only do this part-time but I've learned my lesson after missing a promised delivery due to a broken bit. It really looks unprofessional to your client.

    Needless to say, I didn't buy all these in one fell swoop; this is about three years worth of purchasing, experiementing and such. I buy tooling when the need arises.

    Hope this is of benefit to others, and if there are other bits of mention, or if you want to show off your 'collection' that would be cool!

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Router Bits and EndMills: Pictures, Descriptions, and Uses-imag0881-jpg  


  8. #8
    Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    5516
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default

    Example of mortise compression spiral in action, cutting northern ash:


    PCD SERF cutter, roughing G10 Garolite:


    Amana insert 90 degree V-bit:


    Amana 1/8" spiral-"O"-flute:


    You can hear the difference between a 1HP and 2-1/4HP router, as well as the wood frame and aluminum pipe of the Solsylva versus the Rollon linear rails and phemolic frame.

    Onsrud 1/4" Super-"O"-flute: (rdoc limited to save router!)


    Kodiak 1/4" ball endmill, contour finishing (3D offset):


    Generic 1/4" 2-flute endmill, roughing and finishing, aluminum:




  9. #9
    Registered Alleykat's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    171
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default

    Thanks for the info,do you have a preference on were to purchase end mills?



  10. #10
    Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    5516
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Alleykat View Post
    Thanks for the info,do you have a preference on were to purchase end mills?
    For wood I prefer Amana and Onsrud. I will be testing some BamCarbide bits soon. Scour eBay for deals; don't even bother buying Chinese crap. You can find USA and high end import stuff for close to the same price.

    For endmills, my favorite supplier for inexpensive ones is Kodiak Cutting Tools, as you can see by the sea of red bit containers. I'm always experimenting on the finish end, and SGS and Hanita seem to give me some of the nicest cuts. You can get SGS (S-Carb) from MSC and Hanita (AluSurf) from Fastenal.

    You should keep in mind that while typical bits made for handheld use work fine for CNC, they are rdoc-limited, and cannot (and should not) be fed more aggressively than a CNC bit.



  11. #11
    Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    UK
    Posts
    617
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default

    Thanks for posting Louie

    It's a very informative thread for newbies like me !

    My 1st Build (ongoing) http://www.cnczone.com/forums/diy-cnc_router_table_machines/134670-one_big_one_smaller_my.html


  12. #12
    Registered
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    SoCal
    Posts
    59
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default

    Excellent, this is good stuff. Make it a sticky



  13. #13
    Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    UK
    Posts
    617
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default

    this link was posted on another forum... It might be of interest here ...

    http://www.vortextool.com/images/chipLoadChart.pdf

    My 1st Build (ongoing) http://www.cnczone.com/forums/diy-cnc_router_table_machines/134670-one_big_one_smaller_my.html


  14. #14
    Registered
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    101
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default

    A noob question about the down cut tools...

    I always thought down cut tools were limited to edge finishing because they push the chips down into the work. Is that not the case?



  15. #15
    Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    5516
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by TrickyCNC View Post
    this link was posted on another forum... It might be of interest here ...

    http://www.vortextool.com/images/chipLoadChart.pdf
    Pretty good resource. For many DIY machines, it may not be possible to achieve the reccomended feedrates and spindle speeds due to certain factors, but you could still get pretty close to the recommended chipload.

    Usually however the chipload is known, and then the feedrate could be calculated for a given spindle speed, derived from the chipload formula:

    feedrate = spindle speed X chipload X number of flutes
    chipload = feedrate / (spindle speed X number of flutes)

    The other useful formula is for SFM, or Surface Feet per Minute. Some manufacturers will list their tooling's capacity in this way, calculated as:

    SFM = 3.1416 X RPM X bit diameter / 12

    Yet another one is the MRR, or Material Removal Rate, but you'd need the IPT, or Inch Per Tooth feedrate to calculate it:

    IPT = feedrate / spindle speed (rpm) / number of flutes

    MRR = spindle speed X depth of cut X width of cut x IPT x number of flutes

    So for example, in the BMX chain sprocket video above, pocketing the openings between the spokes, my parameters are:

    72IPM, .125"aDOC, .035"rDOC, 13,000rpm

    My chipload is .0027, SFM = 850, IPT = .0027 and MRR = .315in^3/min



  16. #16
    Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    5516
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default

    Found this online calculator which makes it easier...

    Milling Formula Calculator



  17. #17
    Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    5516
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by ftkalcevic View Post
    A noob question about the down cut tools...

    I always thought down cut tools were limited to edge finishing because they push the chips down into the work. Is that not the case?
    The chips will still eject, though not as efficient as an up-spiral. They work fine for mortising and pocketing operations. If your work is held down tight to the spoilboard, though vacuum or clamping, you can achievev a decent finish on the bottom. A downspiral can also be beneficial when cutting thin stock, as it can prevent the stock from lifting.



  18. #18
    Community Moderator ger21's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Shelby Township
    Posts
    35470
    Downloads
    1
    Uploads
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by ftkalcevic View Post
    A noob question about the down cut tools...

    I always thought down cut tools were limited to edge finishing because they push the chips down into the work. Is that not the case?
    The deeper the depth of cut, and smaller the bit diameter, the more likely chips are to pack into the cut. But if you take shallow cuts, you'll get much less packing.
    The other day I cut some red oak with a 1/4" downcut spiral, .05" per pass for 3/4" thick parts. 400ipm, and when the parts were finished (.70" deep), there were no chips in the cuts.

    Some advantages of downcut bits:

    Downcut bits will tearout much less than upcuts when cutting solid wood.

    They'll leave a clean top edge even when they get very dull. Because of this, you can get a lot more life out of downcut bits.

    They'll help to hold parts down. On 3/4" parts, I can cut .745 deep without going though, because the bit is pushing the material down. With an upcut bit, it would lift the material up and cut through, allowing the part to move.

    Gerry

    UCCNC 2017 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html

    Mach3 2010 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html

    JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
    http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)


  19. #19
    Registered
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Arkansas USA
    Posts
    124
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default

    When I use a 5/32" Centurion Tools down spiral on 3/4" pine, oak or baltic birch ply, I get severe packing. In my case it actually kind of helps as then I can cut all the way through in a single pass without the parts moving. That saves me from sanding the edges from the onion skin or sanding the parts down.

    I have had people tell me also that I cannot cut 1/2" deep in a single pass with a 1/8" down spiral bit. We do it day in and day out at 150-175 IPM with the ones from Centurion Tools. I have yet to find another bit to be able to do the same without breaking.

    Those are my two main bits that I have experience with.

    Sean

    www.FreeCNCPlans.com


  20. #20
    Registered
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    101
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default

    Thanks guys. I always learn a lot from this forum.

    And CURSE YOU ALL! Now I'm going to have to go buy more cutters to play with.



Page 1 of 15 123411 ... LastLast

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  


About CNCzone.com

    We are the largest and most active discussion forum for manufacturing industry. The site is 100% free to join and use, so join today!

Follow us on


Our Brands

Router Bits and EndMills: Pictures, Descriptions, and Uses

Router Bits and EndMills: Pictures, Descriptions, and Uses

Router Bits and EndMills: Pictures, Descriptions, and Uses