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Thread: Router Bits and EndMills: Pictures, Descriptions, and Uses

  1. #81
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    Quote Originally Posted by ger21 View Post
    A bit long enough to cut a 100mm deep hole would probably need to be at least 16-20mm diameter, and would cost about $400-$600. There are plenty of manufacturers that can make one for you.

    I doubt you'll find one with a 10mm shank, as it would be very fragile, and would probably chatter a lot.
    Yes It's chatter alot, i have no choice because of the motor spindle size.

    Now i'm stuck.



  2. #82
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    maybe you could have a larger bit, and find someone to turn down the shank to fit your spindle ?

    It might help a little.

    My 1st Build (ongoing) http://www.cnczone.com/forums/diy-cnc_router_table_machines/134670-one_big_one_smaller_my.html


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    The Bosch in the pictures above is a 4" flute length, though it is 1/2" (12.7mm).

    They use long endmills for metals, I found an extended reach here:

    Kodiak Cutting Tools Solid Carbide Endmills - 2 Flute Single End Extra Long

    The flute length is only 1-1/2" for 3/8, but the OAL is 6".

    You should be able to find necked long endmills also.

    I would start with your regular length endmill first and then switch to the longer length to finish up.

    The advantage to plunge roughing is really only if you have a very ridgid Z axis and you are milling hard material. Otherwise there's a toolpath strategy that would be more efficient.



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    Quote Originally Posted by louieatienza View Post
    The Bosch in the pictures above is a 4" flute length, though it is 1/2" (12.7mm).

    They use long endmills for metals, I found an extended reach here:

    Kodiak Cutting Tools Solid Carbide Endmills - 2 Flute Single End Extra Long

    The flute length is only 1-1/2" for 3/8, but the OAL is 6".

    You should be able to find necked long endmills also.

    I would start with your regular length endmill first and then switch to the longer length to finish up.

    The advantage to plunge roughing is really only if you have a very ridgid Z axis and you are milling hard material. Otherwise there's a toolpath strategy that would be more efficient.
    Thank yoy guys,
    I think i will order this 3/8 inch w extra long but from kodiac.
    Gotta try this bit.



  5. #85
    Member BanduraMaker's Avatar
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    One thing I've decided to do is to standardize my tool numbering in case I have to go back to a job after a few weeks. What I've done is come up with a spreadsheet with all of the tools that I own and a sort of system for numbering as well.

    e.g. the the first digit of the tool number is the denominator of the size so, 2x are 1/2" bits, 8x are 1/8" bits. For the second digit, 0~4 are square and 5~9 are ball nose. So, 20 = 1/2" square. 85=1/8" ball.

    There's a lot of unused spaces but, there are 99 tool numbers to choose from so I'm not too worried about it. The plan is if a new tool is significantly different than an old one, it gets a new number.

    I've attached my spreadsheet for reference.

    I'm also making a simple little tool holder that will have the tool number engraved in for even fewer screwups!

    Attached Files Attached Files
    -Andy B.
    http://www.birkonium.com CNC for Luthiers and Industry http://banduramaker.blogspot.com


  6. #86
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    What I actually do is include the type of tool in the file name. Even though the tool is listed in the g-code header, I still do this so I know what I need without opening the file.

    For example, I put all g-code for a specific job in one file folder, and the jobs will look like this, for example:

    1 - Contour Pocket Rough ,500 EndMill.txt
    2 - Contour Finish ,250 Ball EndMill.txt

    The reason I use commas is depending on the CAM I use, it would take anything after a period as the file extension. I can use periods for a name in VCarve, but not OneCNC. But the numberings keep the files in the order I need to run, and it's pretty clear which endmills I need for the job. I also try to keep different toolpaths separate, even if it uses the same tool, because sometimes I may need to re-run a toolpath, or have multiple jobs with similar exterior features and different interior features, such as different pickup cinfigurations on a guitar. So I can run the outer profile for all, then do a two-himbucker route for one, a top route for another, etc...



  7. #87
    Member LouF's Avatar
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    Andy nice blog and some good looking instrument you have made very impressive..

    Lou

    http://www.cnczone.com/forums/diy-cnc-router-table-machines/140832-cnc-software.html


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    Thanks, Lou.

    Louie, I also name my files with a number in the front when I do multi file stuff. e.g. on my scroll with 4 sides, I had each side as its own file. However, each file has 2 or 3 tool changes in it.

    e.g. a Fretboard has a 1/4" square, a 1/2" round nose and a fret cutter all in the same file. For simple stuff like that where one operation depends on the next, I think it's valuable to keep everything in one file. With a standard tool numbering system, it's easy to see what I was thinking.

    p.s. Ger's screen set with the dual plate thing makes tool changes ultra fast and brain free.

    -Andy B.
    http://www.birkonium.com CNC for Luthiers and Industry http://banduramaker.blogspot.com


  9. #89
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    I also use the number-tool file name thing. Especially when I have 8 or 9 (or 15) tool changes to make a part.

    Gerry

    UCCNC 2017 Screenset
    [URL]http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html[/URL]

    Mach3 2010 Screenset
    [URL]http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html[/URL]

    JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
    [URL]http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html[/URL]

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)


  10. #90
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    I got a couple Exactaform 1/2" 3-flute PCD endmills in the mail today. What's cool about them, and didn't see in the listing, is that one edge is straight, one downshear, and one upshear! Not centercutting but that's OK...



  11. #91
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    Must be bit delivery day I just received a couple of Irwin 1/2 core box tomorrow I should be getting my shipment from the Drillman..


    Lou

    http://www.cnczone.com/forums/diy-cnc-router-table-machines/140832-cnc-software.html


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    Louie, thanks for the very informative post. I am still building my CRP4848, but never to soon to start figuring out what bits I may need. I was wondering which EBAY seller you got the 10 Kyocera 1/8" spiral-"O"-flute endmills from. Also, I orderd Vortex's catalog and it came with a 50% off first time order coupon. I plan to make a large initial order to take advantage of it. thanks again to all of the posters in this thread.



  13. #93
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    Louie, thanks for the very informative post. I am still building my CRP4848, but never to soon to start figuring out what bits I may need. I was wondering which EBAY seller you got the 10 Kyocera 1/8" spiral-"O"-flute endmills from. Also, I orderd Vortex's catalog and it came with a 50% off first time order coupon. I plan to make a large initial order to take advantage of it. thanks again to all of the posters in this thread.
    Welcome...

    I got the Kyocera bits from drillman1 I believe. He has other cool bits as well so check his other items.

    Also for Vortex stuff (and this applies to other brands) be sure to check out the recommended speeds and feeds. A lot of their tooling works best with very high feedrates, which means more powerful spindles i.e. commercial routers, just to keep in mind. It probably would not be prudent, for example, to order a 3-flute, or maybe even a 2-flute compression spiral as you may never see the benefit. Which means forget about a 4-flute... Which is good, because I'd bet it would cost a few hundred dollars! I know Onsrud's 4-flute compression spiral for wood is about $1000.

    Even with a SuperPID, I prefer to run less flutes at a higher spindle speed than the other way around for wood. I have a single-flute mortise compression spiral that I run between 120-150ipm at about 12000-15000ipm and 3/8" doc, which is plenty fast for my needs. This is about 60% of the rated chipload for the tool, and I couldn't run it faster without the cut suffering with my old xylotex box, but I probably could with the Gecko.



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    Quote Originally Posted by racedirector View Post
    Does anyone know of a cheap source for 1/2" ball end, 1/4" shank bits (or even 3/8" shank)? I need one or two of them for a job and Google is useless for me down here in Australia. Nothing exists like this in Australia so o'seas is the only option for me.

    Cheers
    Bruce
    I'm not yet sure about their cnc longevity (I'm a recent cnc convert), but MLCS is running core box and v groove sets for cheap (5@$35) right now. They have served me well for normal router work.

    Fluting and Grooving 50% Off Sale



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    What are you guys using for a round over bit? most I find have pilot bearings.

    My CRP 48 x 48 build [URL=]http://www.cnczone.com/forums/open_source_cnc_machine_designs/144173-crp_4x4.html[/URL]


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    Quote Originally Posted by vtx1029 View Post
    What are you guys using for a round over bit? most I find have pilot bearings.
    Check out Onsrud 40-50 series, does roundover and cuts edge at the same time... Amana sell ssimilar bits as well...



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    i guess this is a bit question...

    how would one go about cutting a 45 deg beveled edge on alum sheets?

    [SIZE="1"]my first..."[B][COLOR="Red"]Big Ape[/COLOR][/B]" CNCRP 2448 [URL="http://www.cnczone.com/forums/cnc_wood_router_project_log/151447-big_apes_crp-2448_build.html"]Build Log[/URL][/SIZE]


  18. #98
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    Quote Originally Posted by kinghong1970 View Post
    i guess this is a bit question...

    how would one go about cutting a 45 deg beveled edge on alum sheets?
    I would use a 90 degree V bit. With VCarve, I'd first cut the shape to final size. After that, I'd offset the perimeter of the workpiece in VCarve a small amount, say 1/8", then select that chain and do a profile pass selecting "ON" the line. Depending on thickness, I'd step down, with the final pass depth the same distance pass the material as my offset. I used an MDF spoilboard.

    The reason for doing this was to cut more on the edge rather than at the tip, which can gall up or break.

    OneCNC automatically offsets the chamfer toolpath so the tool cuts on the most efficient part of the bevel (not at the tip.) I believe MasterCAM and VisualMill do this also....

    A cool tip I got from Ron Reed at the PreciseBits website is to glue metal sheets down to a substrate with CA glue. When you're done, you can easily remove the part with acetone.



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    Wow! I just saw this thread and what a great load of useful posts! I have a habit of destroying almost anything with a sharp edge, so the helpful and descriptive real life use and comparisons will greatly benefit me!

    cheers,
    Ian

    Last edited by aarggh; 04-22-2012 at 05:38 AM.
    It's a state of mind!


  20. #100
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    Quote Originally Posted by kinghong1970 View Post
    how would one go about cutting a 45 deg beveled edge on alum sheets?
    Adding to Louie's method, make sure to climb cut.

    Gerry

    UCCNC 2017 Screenset
    [URL]http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html[/URL]

    Mach3 2010 Screenset
    [URL]http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html[/URL]

    JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
    [URL]http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html[/URL]

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)


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Router Bits and EndMills: Pictures, Descriptions, and Uses

Router Bits and EndMills: Pictures, Descriptions, and Uses