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Thread: Router Bits and EndMills: Pictures, Descriptions, and Uses

  1. #21
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    I just picked up this 2 inch Magnate Surface Planning bit from amazon and it works really nice to surface your spoil board and or planning other boards. Cheap too. They also have a 2.75" bit as well.

    http://www.amazon.com/Magnate-Surface-Planning-Bottom-Cleaning/dp/B0006B0QXE/ref=sr_1_27?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1332934788&sr=1-27]Amazon.com: Magnate 2706 Surface Planning ( Bottom Cleaning ) Router Bits - 2" Cutting Diameter: Power & Hand Tools

    I picked up some single o-flute, and 60* v bits from Magnate as well but have not used them.

    My CRP 48 x 48 build [URL=]http://www.cnczone.com/forums/open_source_cnc_machine_designs/144173-crp_4x4.html[/URL]


  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by vtx1029 View Post
    I just picked up this 2 inch Magnate Surface Planning bit from amazon and it works really nice to surface your spoil board and or planning other boards. Cheap too. They also have a 2.75" bit as well.

    Amazon.com: Magnate 2706 Surface Planning ( Bottom Cleaning ) Router Bits - 2" Cutting Diameter: Power & Hand Tools

    I picked up some single o-flute, and 60* v bits from Magnate as well but have not used them.


    That is cheap... never seen a spoilboard cutter like that, might have to give it a shot.



  3. #23
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    Louie, some of your bits look like they have been around for a long time.
    Which leads me to my question, is it worth sending my dull bits out for resharpening?
    I notice BamCarbide offers this service for 9.00$ per bit for 1/4"
    I was thinking if I had a few bits to ship at once this might be worth it.

    Thank You.


  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Drools View Post
    Louie, some of your bits look like they have been around for a long time.
    Which leads me to my question, is it worth sending my dull bits out for resharpening?
    I notice BamCarbide offers this service for 9.00$ per bit for 1/4"
    I was thinking if I had a few bits to ship at once this might be worth it.
    I kept a lot of my older bits from the hand held days. You can easily hone them with a fine diamond whetstone, on the flats (do not hone the relief angle). This is how I do it. I don't machine my stuff to glass-smoothness, rather I prefer to do the final little bit by hand. I think I had that 1" core-box for about 18 years...

    And yes, resharpening is WAY cheaper than buying new...



  5. #25
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    Louie, good stuff a lot of information I have been using White Side bits they seem to last what are your thoughts on them?

    Lou

    http://www.cnczone.com/forums/diy-cnc-router-table-machines/140832-cnc-software.html


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    If you can't get new 1/4" bits for less than $15, then go ahead and sharpen them.
    I just bought 8 or 9 new ones for $7 each, which is cheaper than sharpening. I also have about 15 sharpened 1/4" bits from when my previous employer closed it's doors, so I should be good for a while.

    Gerry

    UCCNC 2017 Screenset
    [URL]http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html[/URL]

    Mach3 2010 Screenset
    [URL]http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html[/URL]

    JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
    [URL]http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html[/URL]

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)


  7. #27
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    Gerry where do you get them that cheap?

    Lou

    http://www.cnczone.com/forums/diy-cnc-router-table-machines/140832-cnc-software.html


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    Quote Originally Posted by LouF View Post
    Louie, good stuff a lot of information I have been using White Side bits they seem to last what are your thoughts on them?

    Lou
    They're high quality bits, and I used to buy them locally when I had my shop. They are the Fine Woodworking favorite brand, and the recommended brand for the IncraJig system, which I also have (and am looking to sell).

    I've never tried Whiteside bits on the CNC, however...



  9. #29
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    Here's a few that I use.

    First one's what I use for my spoilboard. 2-1/4" diameter. It's just like a slot cutter, without the bearing. I got it used for free, and cut the shank down with a grinder, as it was 4" long. It needs a little cleaning. Vortex sells something similar, but they're not cheap.

    Second one is a 1/4" "O" flute that I use for plastics. Works great for plexiglass, no melting. Sorry about the blurry picture. Got it from CNC Toybox.

    Third one is just what you need to cut through 1" board in one pass at 1200ipm and 15,000rpm. 3 flute coated compression from Onsrud. Just got 7 of them in the mail today.
    When cutting laminated particle board, the laminate is so abrasive that a good size groove will wear into the tool in as little as 20-30 sheets. I've cut 80 sheets with one coated tool without ay wear grooves.

    Fourth one is a 2 flute upcut chipbreaker from Onsrud. Great for hardwoods and hard plywoods, as they cut with much less power required than a standard spiral bit. These are also really good for cutting deep mortises.

    Last pic is about $1200 worth of router bits.

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Router Bits and EndMills: Pictures, Descriptions, and Uses-bits-002-jpg   Router Bits and EndMills: Pictures, Descriptions, and Uses-bits-004-jpg   Router Bits and EndMills: Pictures, Descriptions, and Uses-bits-007-jpg   Router Bits and EndMills: Pictures, Descriptions, and Uses-bits-008-jpg  

    Router Bits and EndMills: Pictures, Descriptions, and Uses-bits-009-jpg  
    Gerry

    UCCNC 2017 Screenset
    [URL]http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html[/URL]

    Mach3 2010 Screenset
    [URL]http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html[/URL]

    JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
    [URL]http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html[/URL]

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)


  10. #30
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    Gerry, I am going to try out that 1/4" "O" flute for plastics I have been using a 2 flute up cut spiral for cutting acrylic not the right one but that is what I have on hand..

    Lou

    http://www.cnczone.com/forums/diy-cnc-router-table-machines/140832-cnc-software.html


  11. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by ger21 View Post
    Here's a few that I use.

    First one's what I use for my spoilboard. 2-1/4" diameter. It's just like a slot cutter, without the bearing. I got it used for free, and cut the shank down with a grinder, as it was 4" long. It needs a little cleaning. Vortex sells something similar, but they're not cheap.

    Second one is a 1/4" "O" flute that I use for plastics. Works great for plexiglass, no melting. Sorry about the blurry picture. Got it from CNC Toybox.

    Third one is just what you need to cut through 1" board in one pass at 1200ipm and 15,000rpm. 3 flute coated compression from Onsrud. Just got 7 of them in the mail today.
    When cutting laminated particle board, the laminate is so abrasive that a good size groove will wear into the tool in as little as 20-30 sheets. I've cut 80 sheets with one coated tool without ay wear grooves.

    Fourth one is a 2 flute upcut chipbreaker from Onsrud. Great for hardwoods and hard plywoods, as they cut with much less power required than a standard spiral bit. These are also really good for cutting deep mortises.

    Last pic is about $1200 worth of router bits.
    The coated bit is Onsrud's Marathon compression spiral. The coating supposedly makes the edge harder and protects it from high heat. They also come in 2-flute.

    Onsrud also makes a specialty router bit, made for polishing the edge of acrylics to near-optically-clear. The price... over $1800!

    Gerry you may have to try out these PCD endmills. I just did one run for a client, pocketing over 85 holes and profiled about 40 pieces in fiberglass-reinforced phenolic (Garolite G10 black), and the bit looks like I hadn't cut with it yet. The bits I used were Onsrud PCD SERF. I did pick up a couple RobbJack PCD bits with straight, smooth flutes for melamine.

    I used to regularly break down and cut whole skids of melamine by hand; we didn't even have a sliding tablesaw. I built a long sawhorse with rollers for cross-cutting full sheets. I would go through gloves like no tomorrow; the edges of the melamine are razor-sharp! We did retrofit a scoring attachment on our old Powermatic 70.

    Last edited by louieatienza; 03-29-2012 at 02:32 AM.


  12. #32
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    I'm not ready to spend a lot on bits yet.

    I worry about operator error, and broken bits ! Forgetting to turn on the router before starting the cut seems like it would be an easy mistake. but I'm getting better at the routine

    I might have to try US-Ebay, as we only have cheap ones from china it seems.

    Rich

    My 1st Build (ongoing) http://www.cnczone.com/forums/diy-cnc_router_table_machines/134670-one_big_one_smaller_my.html


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    Quote Originally Posted by TrickyCNC View Post
    I'm not ready to spend a lot on bits yet.

    I worry about operator error, and broken bits ! Forgetting to turn on the router before starting the cut seems like it would be an easy mistake. but I'm getting better at the routine

    I might have to try US-Ebay, as we only have cheap ones from china it seems.

    Rich
    Rich, search Onsrud on eBay, they regularly blow out high-end bits for pennies on the dollar. If I had to pay retail for all the Onsrud bits I own it would be at least $4000, but I think I've only spent a couple hundred total!

    Never fear breaking a bit, it will eventually happen, and for any reason. I own four Onsrud PCD SERF bits. I paid $49 for each, they retail for $620. There's nothing better I found for cutting Garolite. But the first sheet I cut, there was a dropoff that jammed the kerf and I susequently snapped the first bit. Could you imagine if I paid retail?! But lesson learned, and I now pocket out any area that would potentially leave dropoff, and even pocket out all the holes instead of profiling them, so that I eliminate the possiblility of a jam.

    I usually don't have a problem with this since the bit usually cuts through a slug, but with this hard-to-cut stuff it became an issue. But if I didn't break the first bit I wouldn't havev learned to adjust my cutting for the particular material.



  14. #34
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    Rich, search Onsrud on eBay,
    They only ship to the US.

    Gerry

    UCCNC 2017 Screenset
    [URL]http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html[/URL]

    Mach3 2010 Screenset
    [URL]http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html[/URL]

    JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
    [URL]http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html[/URL]

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)


  15. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by ger21 View Post
    They only ship to the US.
    :/

    oh well !

    Rich

    My 1st Build (ongoing) http://www.cnczone.com/forums/diy-cnc_router_table_machines/134670-one_big_one_smaller_my.html


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    Quote Originally Posted by TrickyCNC View Post
    :/

    oh well !

    Rich
    That sux though there are suppliers there in the UK I'm sure you'll find a good source!



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    Excellent thread, being a newbie at this myself it is good to see what others use.

    Seeing as I broke my only 1/4 downcut spiral bit, what would be a recommended starter "pack" for MDF and ply. I am thinking a couple of 3mm end bits, a 6mm end bit, 60 and 90 degree Vee bits and 2 & 3mm ball end bits. Sound reasonable for someone just starting out and on a budget?

    Cheers
    Bruce



  18. #38
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    My recommendation would by bits you need, rather than a set. When you buy a set, you usually end up with bits you never use.

    For small bits, like 3mm and smaller, get them from China on Ebay, where they are dirt cheap.

    Gerry

    UCCNC 2017 Screenset
    [URL]http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html[/URL]

    Mach3 2010 Screenset
    [URL]http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html[/URL]

    JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
    [URL]http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html[/URL]

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)


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    Thanks Gerry

    By "set" I just meant a collection of bits to buy. My list is pretty much what I *think* i would need - 3mm for cutting out things like the puzzles and small holes, 6mm for profiling etc, Vee bits for carving the ubiquitous Myan calendars etc and ball ends for smoothing.

    I'll check out ebay for small bits, I seem to remember someone recommending drillman (or similar) for them. Initially I will have to buy locally (A$$$$$$$$$) but at least they will be me started while I wait for the ebay purchases.

    Cheers
    Bruce



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    Quote Originally Posted by racedirector View Post
    Excellent thread, being a newbie at this myself it is good to see what others use.

    Seeing as I broke my only 1/4 downcut spiral bit, what would be a recommended starter "pack" for MDF and ply. I am thinking a couple of 3mm end bits, a 6mm end bit, 60 and 90 degree Vee bits and 2 & 3mm ball end bits. Sound reasonable for someone just starting out and on a budget?

    Cheers
    Bruce
    Like Gerry says, when you need it, that's when you buy it (and it's subsequent spares.)

    For wood and wood products I've been using single edge spiral-o-flutes for 1/8" and 1/16" sizes with great results. Especially with smaller routers they run better at higher RPMs, they really work well. The upcut cuts very clean in MDF and plywood. I bought 10 Kyocera 1/8" spiral-o's for $29, and this is a relatively high quality import brand. Onsrud typically sale up some metric sizes in their auctions.

    If you can't find single edge spiral-o flutes inexpensively, you can look into single edge straight flute bits, which are more common. Agan the theory is the same; with only one flute, the flute is larger and has more clearance for chips; and you can run them at higher RPMs without burning your material.

    Cheap V-bits are hit-or-miss. I've yet to find consistant quality from them. This is one reason I turned to Amana's insert V-bits. Perfect point, sharpenable, and reversible. They cost a lot, bu the replacement inserts are reasonably priced. I've waited for cheap bits in the mail, only to find out that I can't use them and then have to buy a good one anyway.

    I say, don't be afraid to break a good bit. In fact, using a good bit is incentive enough to chech and double check your setup before you press Start. Of course accidents will occur, but by being careful and sure you minimize them. And you end up wit better quality work with better bits.



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Router Bits and EndMills: Pictures, Descriptions, and Uses

Router Bits and EndMills: Pictures, Descriptions, and Uses