Super-PID new low-cost router speed controller

[airnocker]

Thank you, but It is called a RAMPS 1.4 shield for the Arduino. That is short for “Rerap Arduino Mega Pololu Shield”. It is actually quite a popular and established controller. It is used on literally millions of machines, primarily in 3D printing and laser cutters, but also for popular CNC machines like the ShapeOKO. It is NOT a ramping voltage.

The controller is outputting 0-5v PWM signal from 0% to 100% duty cycle. In fact, Arduinos are incapable of producing an analog output.

I can’t explain what an Arduino is here, but more information can be found here:

https://reprap.org/wiki/Arduino_Mega_Pololu_Shield

Perhaps someone with a better idea of what an Arduino/grbl setup is has an idea? I am especially confused as to why the PWM input pin on the SuperPID has a positive voltage when not connected to anything.

I’ve tried to be very precise as to what my setup is, but they say a picture is worth a thousand words. The arrow I drew appears to point to the PG terminal, but I mean the PWM terminal. That’s where I’m getting an unexpected voltage.





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I'm well familiar with the Arduino, primarily the Uno. As long as your Arduino PWM control line and the Arduino GND are connected as you show, it should be working fine.
In terms of what you are measuring on the Super-PID 's PWM pin, as long as your PWM supplied 0-5v signal is pulling the PWM pin down to 0v, it doesn't matter. I'd have to open my Super-PID enclosure up to see if there is normally 5V on the PWM Super-PID port when no external signal is applied.

Al-the-man states that an analog voltage from a potentiometer wiper could be used to control the router speed. But you are not using the analog option. So you are on the right track for implementing PWM control.

If your Arduino PWM output is producing positive going 5v pulses from 0v, the norm for off, with narrow pulses widely spaced at low speeds and wider pulses more closely spaced for higher speeds (understand that I mean the pulse interval is a constant frequency) then that is what Super-PID is expecting. Super-PID has no knowledge or interest in how your G-code producing or reading software interprets your Arduino PWM pulse train. That is something that has to be dealt with (configured) solely in the G-code producing/reading software aka RAMPS.

Sounds like you need to invert the PWM signal sent to Super-PID. That your getting a speed change that is inverted to what is desired means you are close to having it work properly.

[swallace84]

I recently accomplished the attached wiring so that I can easily switch between cnc and laser on my openbuilds lead 1010. I use the dewalt 611. I'm interested in the super pid and they told me that I should double check here about how super pid wiring would be added to my attached diagram.

Super pid said: He said the IOT switch can
probably connect to Super-PID RUN terminal. May need to use a relay.

I have a response in the openbuilds forum that says:
You can add it, same as your diagram, the PWM signal wire to the SuperPID passes through your switch

Just remember to set $30 gnea/grbl so the spindle speed scales correctly

I, however, and not well versed in this type of thing. And need it explained in layman's terms. Many thanks for any pointers.
cheers
stuart

[airnocker]

Can you please provide more specific information for which Blackbox PWM switch you are using and why you would even need an IoT switch if you want to replace it with the Super-PID. What is the black wire "spliced" together from the PWM controller to the IoT and J Tech Laser Controller? are the components shown in your diagram purchased from the openbuilds 1010 website?

Are you aware of the modifications you would need to make to your Dewalt 611 in order to use it with the Super-PID?

What CNC software are you using to control the machine?

[rstrease]

I am trying to hook up and get running the Super PID on my CNC Machine. I am using a Porter Cable 892 Router. My setup uses a Gecko G540 and ethernet smooth stepper running Mach3. I am attaching screenshots from Mach 3 as well as my wiring diagram for anyone to look at and maybe see what I am doing wrong. I can run the router in POT mode but when I try and control (start and Stop) the router through Mach 3 it does not work. I am not sure if it is my wiring done incorrect or if I have a setting in my software that is not correct. Any help would be great.

[airnocker]

I am trying to hook up and get running the Super PID on my CNC Machine. I am using a Porter Cable 892 Router. My setup uses a Gecko G540 and ethernet smooth stepper running Mach3. I am attaching screenshots from Mach 3 as well as my wiring diagram for anyone to look at and maybe see what I am doing wrong. I can run the router in POT mode but when I try and control (start and Stop) the router through Mach 3 it does not work. I am not sure if it is my wiring done incorrect or if I have a setting in my software that is not correct. Any help would be great.

Can you confirm that you have made the modifications to your PC 892 router for the optical RPM sensor feedback control?

[rstrease]

I have made the changes to my router.

[airnocker]

Great!, Thanks for confirming. We have the same router but we use different break-out boards, so first I'll share my comparable screens that you posted in your setup. I use the CNC4PC C1R12 parallel port break-out board.
Here is my screens:


I'm going to take a look at your Gecko 450 specs and get back to you. Your Super-PID drawing does not indicate what pin on your Gecko the RUN pin from the parallel port connects to.

EDIT: Now I see why you are using the Gecko G540, Please refer to this link to help guide you. If you have questions about what Roman is saying, please ask. https://www.cnczone.com/forums/diy-c...-superpid.html

[airnocker]

I'd add the recommendation to measure the voltage from the super-pid 5v output to your VFD+ terminal to confirm that it is +5v. Then measure the output on the VFD Output pin as your CNC control software changes its RPM signal from a low to high rpm. It should stay in the range of 0-5v. Double check your grounds between the Geckgo, Super-PID and your break-out board or computer's signal ground. Signal grounds should NOT be connected to Earth grounds as well.

[rstrease]

I'd add the recommendation to measure the voltage from the super-pid 5v output to your VFD+ terminal to confirm that it is +5v. Then measure the output on the VFD Output pin as your CNC control software changes its RPM signal from a low to high rpm. It should stay in the range of 0-5v. Double check your grounds between the Geckgo, Super-PID and your break-out board or computer's signal ground. Signal grounds should NOT be connected to Earth grounds as well.

I will try all these and see what happens. Thanks for your help.


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[airnocker]

Also remember, that the other link I posted where Romanlini is discussing the use of Super-PID with the Gecko controller, he said the normal VFD+ reference voltage is 10volts, not 5. Using 5v worked form most but not all Gecko users. He goes on to describe that a voltage divider is required on the VFDout to drop the voltage down to 5v when using 10v for the VFD+ .

[rstrease]

When I run it in manual mode (pot) I get power to the router and I can change the rpm up and down with the control knob with no issues. When I try and switch to allow the PC to control the router no power is output to the router. It’s strange.


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[lancut]

Just run into this thread, I have the same setup and is running faultlessly. If you still struggling with this I try help you. To start read my posts here from the beginning in this thread, I was struggling with this just like you are. To start with, my setup use 5V, Spindle On/Off (M8/M9) is controlled by Solid State Relay. Hope this helps.

[lancut]

"To start with, my setup use 5V, Spindle On/Off (M8/M9) is controlled by Solid State Relay. Hope this helps."

Cant find a way to edit post.
It should be M3/M5. Sorry.

[rstrease]

I can now control my spindle thru Mach3 but I can only get it to work if I switch it to Manual mode. When I do this it starts running the spindle at 5000 RPM and does not stop. I can change the speed in Mach3 no problem but when I go to turn off the spindle in Mach 3 it stops the current speed and goes back to running at 5000 RPMs. I can also manually go into POT view and change the speed there with my knob. For some reason when I switch over to PC mode to let mach 3 fully control the spindle nothing happens.

[airnocker]

I can now control my spindle thru Mach3 but I can only get it to work if I switch it to Manual mode. When I do this it starts running the spindle at 5000 RPM and does not stop. I can change the speed in Mach3 no problem but when I go to turn off the spindle in Mach 3 it stops the current speed and goes back to running at 5000 RPMs. I can also manually go into POT view and change the speed there with my knob. For some reason when I switch over to PC mode to let Mach 3 fully control the spindle nothing happens.

For clarification, my Super-PID is V1, yours appears to be V2. In my previous post, I posted a V2 diagram depicting connections that only shows PWM control signal coming from a PC (such as generated from Mach3 software) but does not show switching between manual speed control and PWM computer control.

If I'm not mistaken, the diagram you posted previously for your V2 showed the ability to switch between manual pot and PWM computer speed control.

[rlrhett]

My SuperPID works well enough and has definitely improved my hobby machine. But occasionally it will suddenly go full open (max RPM). After a second or two it will fix itself. It is seemingly random.

So far, I’ve not ruined any parts because of it. Way better than it randomly shutting off.

I’ll ask SuperPID directly, but their turn around is very slow. Meanwhile, anyone else experience this? Is this a known bug with a known solution?

Here is a picture of what the readout says when it is doing this:




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[davida1234]

I had the same thing happening. The eye of the speed censor getting filled with dust was the culprit.

[airnocker]

I had the same thing happening. The eye of the speed censor getting filled with dust was the culprit.

The cause would definitely be related to Super-PI's feedback loop becoming "open", i.e. not providing speed rpm feedback data. A blocked optical speed sensor would certainly fall into that category.

[rlrhett]

I’ve cleaned the eye off and not had an issue since; but I’ve only run one job so it’s too early to tell. I have a Bosch 1617, so the sensor is through two separate plastic shells. Not much dust in there. Could be a loose/break in the wire instead. I have a couple of longer jobs this week, and that will be the test.

I do want to note that SuperPID reached out to me from monitoring this post. Kudos for customer service going above and beyond. I’m really impressed.


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[airnocker]

I’ve cleaned the eye off and not had an issue since; but I’ve only run one job so it’s too early to tell. I have a Bosch 1617, so the sensor is through two separate plastic shells. Not much dust in there. Could be a loose/break in the wire instead. I have a couple of longer jobs this week, and that will be the test.

I do want to note that SuperPID reached out to me from monitoring this post. Kudos for customer service going above and beyond. I’m really impressed.


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That is great news! Thanks for letting us know about your success and that the SuperPID folks reached out to you. They are awesome.