Super-PID new low-cost router speed controller

[karloterrazas]

Hi,

I am searching on the web to find the best "Router" to put on my new CNC but at low cost.
Found that SuperPID thing and it's really interesting.

Does anyone have mount one on a Bosch 1617EV router ?

Any other advice ?

Thanks a lot

As you can see the sensor bracket is between the router and the dust cover, i hope this helps a little with you router

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[DiaLFonZo]

As you can see the sensor bracket is between the router and the dust cover, i hope this helps a little with you router

Enviado desde mi Transformer Prime TF201 usando Tapatalk 2

Now that's a real nice mount.. I like it a lot.
Is it custom made ?

Yes i might install it that way too.
I will have a K2CNC dust shoe which will be under like yours.

[karloterrazas]

Now that's a real nice mount.. I like it a lot.
Is it custom made ?

Yes i might install it that way too.
I will have a K2CNC dust shoe which will be under like yours.

Yes i did it myself, its quite heavy, but holds the router very nice and helps to disipate heat away from the router, its like a big heatsink, i may add thermal grease later :P lol

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[DiaLFonZo]

Yes i did it myself, its quite heavy, but holds the router very nice and helps to disipate heat away from the router, its like a big heatsink, i may add thermal grease later :P lol

Enviado desde mi Transformer Prime TF201 usando Tapatalk 2

Looking closely at the hood also.. very nice..!
I would like to have such a mount and hood.

[RomanLini]

Thank you Karloterrazas for showing your router mount with SuperPID sensor.

As I always like to remind people; please be sure to use some silicone etc to securely "glue" the sensor in place. Routers make a lot of vibration and things can sometimes tug on the cable, so you don't want to risk the sensor will move and get mashed against the spinning parts.

Also a quick reminder note; This month (October 2012) Val is doing a 15% off "SuperPID birthday" sale to celebrate over two years of selling Super-PID's now. Our celebration, your saving.

[satanicoo]

What is this PID+ you talk about?
All i can google is the normal PID

[juengelj]

Hi,

... I think you will probably need a new LCD module.

rgds,

Andrew

Just wanted to let everyone know that indeed it was an LCD problem. I received a replacement from Val and it fired right up beautifully in all it 2x20 glory . So the problem is solved and my machine is operating as designed. Thank you everyone here and at Super-PID for the support. I really appreciate it.

[CNC_Addict]

Hey guys just wanted to chime in, im a long time user but on new account

Anyways i wanted to start off by saying the support of superpid on the forum is what made my final decision on the purchase. and couldnt be happier. little history

i ordered it last month ( before october ) order the controller, some switches and other small items. all was good couple days later val emailed me and said thanks for the order and that they were having an october sale coming up and is gonna go ahead and apply it to the order! i was ecstatic i said thats great he said i would get a refund for like $40 bucks! i was well thanks so much. figured i use the money for some more toys for my superpid so i put the money right back into the order and he sent me all the extras! wow how awesome.

so the box came ( about 2 weeks ) opened it all up wired it up and up and running easily in a few hours. no hassles at all!!! of course i watched a bunch of videos and read some websites for the best wiring solution. i went with manual control for starters and figure i can setup for mach3 control later. i actually like it this way for now. so anyways here are my videos for setup and install of my superpid.

so far i am loving this device and love full control of the spindle and saving me from spending un-needed cash on a VFD

thanks Val you rock!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A5B7tm48LSw]Super-PID RPM SENSOR INSTALL PART 2 - YouTube
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MjH2PSHlHfE]Super-PID Sensor ( PART 3 LAST ) using sugru - YouTube
"http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FShBZlgZOec"]CNC router cutting G10 using DIY Dust boot & SuperPID - YouTube

[riche543]

This is a photo from my router bosch 1617, as you can see, a mounted the sensor in the bottom, i have never had a dust problem there, just put a dust shoe below the sensor and it will be safe.

Can't see any photos , might just be my iPhone though?




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[ameinert]

I received my Super-PID a few weeks back and hooked it up to power as soon as I could just to see if it would work. All went well and I was able to control the speed of the PC7518 router using the provided pot. I really like this unit so thanks a lot for developing it.

However, I want it to be controlled by my computer using EMC2 so I have now attached it to 5v via a USB port on the back of the PC and I have connected it to a PWM signal and on-off control on the parallel port thru a breakout board. Mains are also on. I have unhooked the pot so as to be PC control only and I have put in the necessary jumper wire in the pot's place as shown in the manual.

As soon as I turn on the PC, the USB gets power and turns on the Super-PID. That's good, but then the router spools up and settles pretty quickly on 5000 RPM. I am not expecting the router to run yet. Once I boot up EMC2, I am able to use the virtual buttons in EMC2 to toggle the router off and on, but it's the opposite of what it should be. Off is on and on is off. This also keeps me from being able to control the speed because the virtual buttons for that grey-out when you depress "off" which actually turns it on.

Like most of the things I have messed up on this machine build, this seems like a pretty simple problem, but I am new to soldering and working with electronics so I wanted to know what the likely cause is before I try anything on my own and risk making smoke. Does crossing the 5v and ground wires have this affect?

I am really close to "done" with this build after about 18 months of work and I want to do this as right as I can. (My machine build is here: http://www.cnczone.com/forums/diy-cn...cnc_beast.html )

Thanks,
Andy

[ameinert]

As soon as I turn on the PC, the USB gets power and turns on the Super-PID. That's good, but then the router spools up and settles pretty quickly on 5000 RPM. I am not expecting the router to run yet. Once I boot up EMC2, I am able to use the virtual buttons in EMC2 to toggle the router off and on, but it's the opposite of what it should be. Off is on and on is off.
Andy

OK. Never mind. I read the manual and this is how Super-PID is supposed to work. I went into my EMC2 HAL file and inverted the parallel port pin and now it works fine. I had just assumed that the run command was activated by high not low signal. The Super-PID is working great now and I am very happy with it.

On to the next issue.

Andy

[sawmiller]

well, drove the router into the wood, popped the fuse
where can i get another ?
i know it's a 12a 120 volt, but is it a mini, micro, or should it be done by actual fuse dimensions ?
thanks for any and all info
dan

[LouF]

well, drove the router into the wood, popped the fuse
where can i get another ?
i know it's a 12a 120 volt, but is it a mini, micro, or should it be done by actual fuse dimensions ?
thanks for any and all info
dan

Radio shack, Frys or if you have Computer repair shop or a radio repair that do two way they may have one or try google..


Lou

[vbgraves]

Wasn't able to find what I was looking searching through the thread, so I thought I'd ask. I plan on mounting my SPID away from the enclosure which contains my breakout board. The +5V will come from either the BOB or a power supply within the BOB enclosure. Can I use an ethernet cable to carry the 5V as well as a PWM signal to the SPID enclosure, or would that potentially cause noise in the PWM signal?

Van

[airnocker]

Hi Van,

That's what I did.

[vbgraves]

Airnocker,

Does that setup seem to work for you? No noise problems? What kind of RJ45 connector did you put in your SuperPID enclosure? I'm having trouble finding a panel mount with a minimal footprint.

Thanks,
Van

[airnocker]

Does that setup seem to work for you? No noise problems? What kind of RJ45 connector did you put in your SuperPID enclosure? I'm having trouble finding a panel mount with a minimal footprint.

My cable lengths are under 10ft in length as I've got a small 20" x 40" table but as long as you stay under "Ethernet CAT5" cable length standards and don't run Ethernet cables next to and parallel with high current cables you should be fine. BTW use stranded.

Yes, it works great especially if you use CAT5 or better, CAT6 stranded Ethernet cables. (there are two types of CAT cables, stranded or solid and you need to use the appropriate RJ45 connector for type, vampire solids for stranded copper and bifurcated for solid copper).

I bought my RJ45 jacks from Lowest and used "On-Q" or "Leviton" modular jacks and wall plate covers.

I "liberated" the place where the modular jack snaps in in order to have a smaller footprint for the jack. I've included some pictures.

Hope this helps.

[Al_The_Man]

Thanks Al, funny coincidence I was actually looking through bipolar hall switch datasheets today. The Super-PID has 3 levels of hardware filtering for the sensor so it's pretty much compatible with any sensor type.

I may order some bipolar (latching) hall sensors and try that option, it's still waiting on some tiny supermagnets to arrive for the next few days anyway and will test them first on the SS441A unipolar hall switches I have here.

Did any of these tests ever prove successful using the latch detector with two magnets?
Al.

[vbgraves]

Airnocker, thanks for the photos. Gives me some ideas.

[Devastator]

I notice a lot of questions on how to fit the sensor into the 1617 EVS, so I figured I'd share how I did it while I got my router apart to fit it for a new power cord.

I took some pictures but I forgot to document the removal of the switch and where to move the wires but that is pretty straightforward. Just rearranging of the quick disconnects direct to the brush terminals.

To fit the sensor I took the top off and used adhesive sign vinyl to cover half of the shaft just below the armature. Then I drilled the top at an angle to intersect the taped off section and then tapped it to 3/8"-16. I used a piece of delrin rod and drilled it for the sensor, then threaded it to 3/8"-16.

I pulled the wire through until the sensor was just exposed, then several layers of varying sizes of shrink tubing to secure. Then it is just threaded into the hole estimating the right spot to drill the outer cover for the wire to exit.

The photos should be clear enough to show what's involved. The upper hole in the router cover is to attach a ground wire to the spindle via banana plug for the zero function.

This integrated mod might not be for the faint of heart. If you drill in the wrong spot or the wrong angle it won't work. Just thought I'd share how I did it. And yes, it works.