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Thread: Super-PID new low-cost router speed controller

  1. #1381
    Registered Walky's Avatar
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    Well, it turns out that with the tweaks I mentioned the new sensor works great! I'm getting a minimum read of about 4 bars, and the maximum is all bars except one, somehow I'm getting even better readings than with the original sensor!

    Here are some pictures from the new setup:




    I need to add some extra epoxy to fill the plastic part's opening, so dust doesn't get to the bearing. Other than that, I'm very happy with it.


    And my first job using the new sensor (my wife loved it ). Done at 15KRPM, approximately two holes per second:



    Last edited by Walky; 10-07-2011 at 09:34 AM.


  2. #1382
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    Leavme- If you want the v1.5 that is no problem. The first thing to do once you get the SuperPID is connect the 5v power and check the version it already has. If it is not already a v1.5 email Val at the SuperPID website arrange a chip exchange or reprogramming etc.

    SScnc- Hi, yes the SuperPID comes with an opto sensor and 2.5 metre length lead standard, all included in the price. If you want extra metres of cable there is a box there you can select on the order page and say how much extra cable length you need. Likewise some people order a temperature sensor (which is not included in the basic product).

    Walky- Good work! That opto sensor is a bit larger than ideal (as we discussed) but you have got it sorted out fine. Your white paint is very white and matte, and your black/white paint areas are reasonably large. It looks like you painted the inner race of the bearing and the shaft (which is fine, and makes a larger painted area). Your bargraph readings are excellent so there should be no problems with that sensor. Like I said before the SuperPID is designed to be pretty tolerant of sensor type.

    You mentioned about adding more epoxy later, one tip would be to use silicone (silastic) instead of epoxy, it is easier to remove and also sticks better especially when things vibrate like router plastic parts. Silicone is also easier to shape, as epoxy tends to run or drip when in larger quantities.

    Wow that's a really nice bit of engraving! I have never seen that type of raster engraving, it looks like the old 45 degree "screen" that we used in the days before desktop publishing when photos were "screened" to make them into dots ready for offset printing! It's very cool, kind of a classic look and being engraved it should last forever.



  3. #1383
    Registered Walky's Avatar
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    Thanks, I like the idea of using silicone, I'll try that.

    For that picture I used DXF Halftone 2.1, it's a great software, and it's GPL too!

    You can get it here:
    Syvajar3

    Last edited by Walky; 10-07-2011 at 12:24 PM.


  4. #1384
    Member SScnc's Avatar
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    Thanks for your reply Roman, I thought so, just wanted to make sure.

    Order placed this morning, I put this off for too long and really looking forward to having this !

    I'll post some pics after I get it installed.

    Thanks again,

    Steve



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    Walky- Thanks for the info on the cool halftone engraving software!

    SScnc- Thanks for your order! I think you'll be very happy with it.


    DeWalt DW618 router help needed.

    I'm trying to advise a guy who has a DeWalt DW618 router, on how to remove the electronic module. So far I have not been able to find a schematic on the Dewalt website.

    Has anyone got a DeWalt router that might be able to shed some light on removing the module? The module (like all other routers) has only 3 wires. The DeWalt colours are; WHITE, RED and BLACK.

    Currently I only have a couple of photos from the guy and can't see exactly where the wires go, but I am leaning towards the idea that it is the WHITE and RED wires that need to be joined and the BLACK that needs to be cut. The photo is shown below. If anyone has used the DeWalt router or one that looks the same as the photo below can you please share any info you might have on it? Thanks!

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Super-PID new low-cost router speed controller-lyle_dw618-without-cap-1-jpg  


  6. #1386
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    I don't have a DeWalt but love challenges. Here is a pic of the speed controller I found here Module [397454-03] - $30.94 at eReplacementParts.com

    I agree with your hunch because:

    1. White is Common from power cord - one brush connects to white
    2. Black is Hot from power cord - goes to speed controller
    3. Red goes to one brush - from speed controller's Triac

    So, since Red comes from speed controller to one brush, and if the color wire going to the other brush is white, then remove red wire's slip on connector from that brush and plug black lead from power cord there.

    The simplest thing is to unplug the red, white and black leads of the speed controller, remove the controller, then connect the power cord's white lead to one brush and the black to the other brush. That way it can always be returned to original configuration and no wires were cut.

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Super-PID new low-cost router speed controller-dewalt-part_397454-03-gif  
    airnocker
    Everything depends on everything else


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    Thank you Airnocker! The gentleman in question has since contacted me back and did pretty much what you suggested, to remove the module and the RED wire from the brush terminal, and put the WHITE wire from the power cord to the remaining (now empty) brush terminal.

    As I suspected this is the same as joining the WHITE AND RED wires from the module and disconnecting the black wire from the module.

    His SuperPID and DeWalt DW618 now appear to be operating fine and has has emailed me a couple of nicely labeled "DeWalt DW618 router mod photos" in case other people wish to use that router.



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    I think from this we can deduce that the DW618 router is of "Fully Super-PID Compliant (TM)" manufacture.

    CarveOne

    CarveOne
    http://www.carveonecncwoodcraft.com


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    That is very interesting about the DW618. I have a couple of those but plan on getting a PC890 for my build. Sounds like it would be easy to use the DW618 if I decide to start with it for a while.

    BTW, I ordered a SuperPID a few weeks back. Just did a temporary install on my old machine, using the Pot to control a Dewalt laminate trimmer. This thing is so cool !!

    I know it's been said over and over, but I was not prepared for the noise reduction. Can't wait to try it out.

    Thank you so much for this Roman

    BobL.



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    Quote Originally Posted by CarveOne View Post
    I think from this we can deduce that the DW618 router is of "Fully Super-PID Compliant (TM)" manufacture.
    ...
    Haha! Well so far we've never found a router that could not be "encouraged" to comply...

    Boblon- Thanks for the nice words (and your order) and welcome to the thread!

    I take it the DeWalt laminate trimmer did not have internal electronics (ie was a fixed speed one?). Those are really noisy!



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    Yep, the lamitate trimmer is single speed and yes, it really did scream, now it purrs like a ***** cat

    BobL.



  12. #1392
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    Thumbs up Ordered my Super-pid

    Well I finally ordered my super-pid on Tuesday! Now if I could only stay home long enough to get some work done on my table..

    GG



  13. #1393
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    Hi Grinder_gary, welcome to the thread and thanks for your order!

    I know what you mean about finding time! I'm stuck with some commercial design work at the moment and my new CNC machine build has gone absolutely nowhere for the last 3 weeks. Bummer.



  14. #1394
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    Exclamation KRESS

    Hi all

    Im thinking of getting the Super-PID to control my Kress FME 800.
    I have looked though this thread about fitting S-PID to my kress.
    My question is though Im going to be using 2 Kress spindles so i dont have to tool change so much one for engraving one for cutting. How would i go about using S-PID for 2x routers, & also is there a neat & tidy way too mod the kress for S-PID. Anyone with pics of there kress fitted with S-PID would be great. This is for my 2nd cnc table that hasnt been built yet just collecting all the bits at the mo. Wanting to make this build a very neat looking machine..
    Thanks
    Riche.



  15. #1395
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    I would think it quite simple to interlock the two by using a reversing contactor on the output, these are mechanically interlocked and also can be electrically interlocked, the 5v enable signal would be operated by an auxiliary contact on each side of the reverser.
    So that each time a switch over is made it ensures the PID is re-set.
    Al.

    CNC, Mechatronics Integration and Custom Machine Design

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  16. #1396
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    Quote Originally Posted by Al_The_Man View Post
    , the 5v enable signal would be operated by an auxiliary contact on each side of the reverser.
    So that each time a switch over is made it ensures the PID is re-set.
    Al.
    While disabling the SuperPID while switching power from one spindle to the other is probably the safest way to do it, it may not be the most desirable, as you'd need to wait for the SuperPID to "reboot", which takes a few seconds.

    You'll need a sensor on each spindle, and switch the sensor signals and AC power with contactors.

    What software will you be using to control this? Or will you be doing it manually?

    Gerry

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  17. #1397
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    Thanks for the replys guys, Yep understanding it more now thanks, (always been a bit slow !! ) Is it possible to skip the electronic speed in kress FME 800 without removing the electrics. Does Super-pid have a soft startup aswell? software: Think i will use mach3 to control, Thanks again guys. Great site.
    Cheers
    Riche



  18. #1398
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    Don't know about the Kress, but yes, the Super PID has soft start.

    You'll probably need to write some custom macros for Mach3 to control the two spindles.

    Gerry

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  19. #1399
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    Quote Originally Posted by ger21 View Post
    While disabling the SuperPID while switching power from one spindle to the other is probably the safest way to do it, it may not be the most desirable, as you'd need to wait for the SuperPID to "reboot", which takes a few seconds.
    doing it manually?
    Not on the one I have, removing power on the output and dropping the on signal works, IF the input power is removed it does a reboot.
    I would think you want to ramp up when you change routers?
    I should have use 'Run' instead of 'Reset' maybe.
    This is the type of reverser I meant.
    Ebay 230590232089.
    If you do pick one up, you do not need the overload block, also if using AC coils it is important to interlock the coils with a N/C auxiliary contact on each side, otherwise there is a danger you burn the coil out on accidental simultaneous pick up.
    Using DC coils it is not necessary if you so wish, as you will not lose a coil.
    I would think you could use M3 for one and M4 for the other as you do not require a reversing action? I would think also they are interlocked within Mach?
    Al.

    Last edited by Al_The_Man; 10-23-2011 at 12:01 PM.
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  20. #1400
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    Sorry Al, misunderstood. Can you explain to the mere mortals here how that reversing contactor works, and possibly how it's wired? And, I'm assuming that's a good price? If that will work for my New dual router machine with the SuperPID, I'll buy it now.

    Gerry

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    JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
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