Does this look like a CNC Machine ????

**flyrc** · 06-30-2003, 11:18 PM

Steve,

Looks like my last post did not get saved hmmm

Well while the tool in question does hold the standard 1/8 shank tools the same as the Dremel.

I had a chance to go across town this weekend to a wood working supply shop.

They did not have the MiniCraft but they did had the Proxxton tool that I was also considering and while it was quiet I was not impress, see to be under powered. ( got a change to run it up and as soon as I held the tip it slowed down )

Also, I came to the realization that most of the noise that will be generated will be from the tool actually cutting..

Due to cost I will stick with the Dremel Tool...( It has the highest RMP top end in its class and cost the least )

Thank your for the advice

Luis,

**flyrc** · 06-30-2003, 11:53 PM

ok guys here is a few pics of the "almost finishe machine"

**cncadmin** · 06-30-2003, 11:55 PM

Looks very good.

**flyrc** · 06-30-2003, 11:57 PM

here is a close up of Y and Z ...........

**flyrc** · 07-01-2003, 12:09 AM

Thanks Paul,

Well still on the check list - is the installation of the all thread,

I dropped it off at a local machine shop.. ( I hope they understood my instructions )

Also received my xylotex board, just waiting on power supply..

so far the xyoltex board looks simple.. ( I will be sending a question to jeff about the limit switches.. seems like there is an enable pin that needs to be low (set to ground) to activate the axis... my first guess was to place a limit switch here.... but as I read on looks like J10 can be used for limit switches.. but the documentation does not say how to wire it up.....

Well when I have it all solved. I will post a pic fo my wire diagram..

So far this has been lots of fun.. Cant wait to cut my first part...

(Thanks to every one who has posted a thread in this forum.. I enjoyed reading all of them.. did not have to many question for you guys since it seems like each design while similar is unique in its own ways).... Thanks again to all...

Luis,

**ger21** · 07-01-2003, 07:12 AM

There should be an enable jumber plug. Just plug it into the appropriate connector and it jumps the enable to ground. You shouldn't have to worry about the enable's, unless you want to activate them in software.

Gerry

**flyrc** · 07-01-2003, 10:45 AM

Gerry,

You are correct,

I do have that connector and it will short out the ENA# pins to ground...

I was looking more at how to set up the limit switches,

but looks like you can use the sleep pins for that,

I found a PDF with a wire diagram on how to do it on the xylotex site, also posted a questing on there news group
//groups.yahoo.com/group/Xylotex/ under the heading "How to set up my limit switches?? " So I should be all clear in a few days’ I hope!

Thanks again..!

Luis

**flyrc** · 07-04-2003, 12:41 AM

I though this may help someone, who is thinking of buldign there own CNC

While I am not finished here is where my Money was spent,

Supplies Materials
Xyolotex------------------------------$125.00
Linear Rails ( 2 sets )----------------$75.00
Power Supply--------------------------$67.66
Stepper Motors ( 3) ------------------$60.00
Nuts/Bolts-------------------------------$43.04
Dremel Advantage---------------------$42.50
1/4X13/16 OD 1-1/4 NULINE -------$23.28
All Thread ( machining)----------------$20.00
Bearnigs 1/2 Bore----------------------$18.50
"48"" X 84"" "---------------------------$16.97
" 1"" X 1 FOOT NAT Del SQR BAR ---$14.81
Angle Guag -------------------------------$4.99

Supplies Materials ---------------Total $511.75

Tools
Drill Bit Forstner 3/4----------------------$13.99
Drill Bit Forstner 1-1/8--------------------$12.97
Drill Bit Forstner 1/2-----------------------$10.79
"Sqare 6"""---------------------------------$4.99
Drill Bit --------------------------------------$2.69

Tools---------------------------Total $45.43

Shipping Charges
Dremel Advantage ----------------------------$8.50
" 1"" X 1 FOOT NAT Del SQUR BAR ------ $7.48
Other Shipping ------------------------------- $6.00
1/4X13/16 OD 1-1/4 L COUPLING --------$3.88

Shipping Charges----------------------Total $25.86

TAX
Other Tax ( Nuts Bolts Local stuff )------------------$8.30
1/4X13/16 OD 1-1/4 L COUPLING ------------------$1.52
" 1"" X 1 FOOT NATURAL DEL SQR BAR (Tax)"---- $1.25
TAX-------------------------------------------Total $11.07

Total to date--------------------------------TOTAL $594.11

I still need s.......

1. box of some kind to house my Xyolotex 3 axis controller)
2. some wire and switches ( Limit switches )
3. Purchase Dremel Multy Pro (digital version runs around 60$ on ebay
4. Already made a tool holder for the Multy Pro
5. still need to make a holder for the Revolution

I will post more pics all the mechanical part are finally finished !

**mossy** · 07-05-2003, 11:39 AM

Hi Flyrc
Good to see how youre machine is coming on.
Take note on the post about youre distance peices and mount the linear rails and blocks direct as you will have trouble.
Also i have used NTK linear guides like these on a machine we built for an industrial manufacturer, on the rails where the cap head screws are you can get plastic plugs, do use these and fit with care so as they are flush wood dust can ruin these and has.
good luck, post some more pics as you progress.

**flyrc** · 07-05-2003, 03:27 PM

Mossy

I'm not sure that I'm following your advice,

Do you mean to say that I should pug the unused screw holes,
on the Trucks/Blocks?

Also do you have any advice on what kind of grease I should be
using on them.. ?

They where well lubricated when I got them but, since I've been,
working with them ... fitting ect..

They def. need some grease..

Something I can find locally perhaps I expect I only need a few ounces.. every now and again...

Thanks,

**balsaman** · 07-05-2003, 04:12 PM

He means to plug the holes in the rails with something so they don't fill with dust and contaminate the bearing blocks. I did this on my rails that were located below the table only, as not a lot of dust gets up on the gantry/z axis rails. There are plugs you can buy for this.

I washed all the grease out of my linear bearings as grease and wood dust don't get along well. I ran mine dry. You can put a little light oil on the rails now and then just to keep the wipers/seals lubed a bit.

I too would lose the standoff posts and replace them with solid blocks of MDF the size of the bearing blocks with the 4 holes drilled in them. It will make it much stiffer, and look better too.

It's a great looking machine. It's a good idea to paint all the MDF parts. I used Floor paint grey but I have heard a good quality latex works great on MDF too. A drop of oil on the MDF soaks in and makes a spot the size of your palm.

Keep it up. You are farther ahead than 90% of the people who try to build a machne.

Eric

**mossy** · 07-05-2003, 06:11 PM

Hello again
Yes plastic plugs which fit flush over the capheads.
You can also get gaiters for these from the manufacturer so as no need to run dry, but these are real small linear units so you would have to chase around and see if there are such items for these, could be worth it!
Good luck.

**mwestern** · 07-05-2003, 08:32 PM

Hey flyrc,

Your machine is looking great. I had a question. What is holding the y-axis onto the rails, it looks as if you could pick it up right off the rail? Maybe I am just not seeing it close enough.

Mark

**flyrc** · 07-08-2003, 11:11 PM

Hello everyone,

Been busy researching the software end of this project,

Have learned a lot so far,

While the mechanical building is basically complete there is still a lot do before I can cut my first part. Again mostly the software.

Balsaman / Mossy

Oh man for some reason I kept thinking you meant the screw hold on the bearing,
But you mean the holes on the rails.
I’ve been going crazy looking for the part number the rails are made my IKO,
Well I think it will have to do for now but I will keep an eye on them, I got them off ebay
For 35 each set, I called around back when I had a part number a local place wanted $250 just for one rail.

As for the standoffs my first design idea was to use MDF blocks, looking back I think I could have made them if I just over sized the holes so they could adjust and fit just right.
but when I started building I gave up that Idea because of the small size of the blocks I just did not think I could get them right with just a drill press.

So far the standoff seem to hold solid.. if I try to move them what gives a bit is the X axis bearing locks I made. They do not give much and only after I apply quite some force. Once I run it and if I see it’s a problem I will change it. (Plus I’m out of MDF used every bit scraped only a few little blocks)

I did plan on painting it but I cant wait to cut my first part…

Mwestern

You asked “What is holding the y-axis onto the rails”

I think you mean .. X – axis no ? ( I am still new a this !)

But basically Gravity

Well looking back I did this because it was a simple design, and I could manage with the tools I have.. ( I build all of this in my Two bedroom apartment )

I set up the dremel with a drill bit.. and run the z axis down and it does lift the Gantry up
That is with out the Dremel running.

I plan on using it for Balsa and light Ply.. It will be a rare case if I cut ¼ in ply.

But if you are thinking or working on a machine,
Go for something that will lock it down, (using pipes seem to be the standard)

Net machine I make will probably have the x rails under so they are not exposed.

Thanks guys !!!

(PS, still waiting on my Power Supply next time I will not be so cheep and pay next day shipping)

**flyrc** · 07-11-2003, 02:29 AM

Just,

Another quick update,

I completed my limit switch setup.. I’m using the xylotex board,
So I used the parallel setup (with two switches in series) with NC (Normal Closed) switches seemed the most save, since a break in the wire will be detected right away.

I’ve been playing around with converting *.bmp to *.dxf then to G-Code,
I must have installed hundred of software packagers … (OK maybe not Hundreds )

But looks like my G-Code is checking out.. ( at least it did not crash TurboCNC)
I ran it thorough with out the controller powers and seems to work)
To be safe I will do a dry run with a Pen or Pencil ……

Well tomorrow I cut my first part as soon as the UPS Guys shows up.

I’m still kicking my self for not shipping that PowerSupply Quicker.

Any way stay toned for more PIC ..

Later!!!!

**mwestern** · 07-11-2003, 04:08 PM

flyrc,

Throw a couple of bricks on there, that should hold it down.

Mark

**kong** · 07-11-2003, 04:33 PM

This is really looking good, but my one concern would be that the MDF table may "droop" slightly in the middle. I'm sorry if it's been mentioned before, I'm more into looking at pictures! Anyhow, you can always bung some battens under there to help stiffen it up it it does bend at all. It will be important, since you're only cutting thin stock.

**flyrc** · 07-11-2003, 05:02 PM

Kong,

Right not it drops abut 1/16 from what I can tell,

I think I will use some aluminum channel and place two of then length wise to help it stiffen up,

**flyrc** · 07-11-2003, 05:10 PM

Well I not have my power supply,

It is nice and shinny....

I don’t know much about AC electric so I want to make sure I connect these right,

Any way if you guys could help me to figure out how to connect my AC cord to the power supply

It has the following connections.. (see pic)

I know the +V and -V will be my DC power,

the Ground cable should go to the center prong on the cord connector..

My question is the L and N connection do those go to the 1 or 2 prongs ( it may not matter ) but I have notice some AC cords can only be plugged in one way so Just want to be safe !!

Thanks for all you help...