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  1. #37
    Member Jim Dawson's Avatar
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    Default Re: Making a radius punch and die

    It could be prehard, a file test might tell something. I have found that it's possible to cut almost anything with the right cutters. I have band sawed some pretty hard stuff using bi-metal blades. The rust should not be an issue for milling unless it's pretty deep. Mill scale is like carbide and you have to get under it on the first pass to keep from dulling cutters. Sand blasting is a good idea.

    Jim Dawson
    Sandy, Oregon, USA


  2. #38
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    Default Re: Making a radius punch and die

    Well, I cut up the 4130 with no problem on a bandsaw. The 1" plate was a different story. I started in but only got a bit in and stopped for fear of completely trashing the blade and even if not that then taking forever. Don't have access to a torch (although maybe can find someone...) Considered putting it on a Bridgeport (at a maker space) and milling through it. I can file the edges without much trouble so not hardened but think it is harder than 1018 (very rough hardness guess). Any suggestions?

    Used to have access to a horizontal bandsaw but no longer. If I could get it clamped in vertical and cut from both side I think that would work. Nice thing about that is it feeds automatically. Cut some fairly hard 2" shafting nicely but from the speed of that I would be about 15 minutes for a 12" cut in this plate.

    My guess is a plasma torch would be ideal but don't have access to one. But I think I could find one.



  3. #39
    Member Jim Dawson's Avatar
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    Default Re: Making a radius punch and die

    You don't want to cut that with any kind of heat. The edge will harden and you'll be doing a bunch of grinding before you can machine it. I'm sure it's much harder and tougher than the 1018. Any kind of a band saw would work, as long as it will physically fit. Cutting it on the BP would work also, I would use a 3/8 cobalt rougher end mill for that. You could cut 1/2 inch deep at the full 3/8 width.

    Jim Dawson
    Sandy, Oregon, USA


  4. #40
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    Default Re: Making a radius punch and die

    Two edges were cut with some sort of torch. I can grind off a bit to get through the harder part although it doesn't seen much harder. How deep should I grind to get through the hardness?

    I got a 1/2" cobalt rougher (actually 2 in case I break one...). Next issue I see is how to mount this to cut clear through. It is bigger than the table is wide so I can only clamp at the ends without some fixture. I am thinking I could space it off the table with some scraps of 1/2" aluminum or something similar. Then mill a slot half way across the plate. I could then put a clamp or clamps in that slot and mill the rest of the way. If I put the T slot nuts in place before starting I might even be able to add the clamps without loosing my location.

    I am thinking I want to make the cuts in the X direction so I can use the power feed to get even feed. If I do that perhaps I could center the cut over the table and use the outside T slots to clamp and not have to change anything while cutting. But there will be a fair amount of metal hanging off the table. I am thinking I should still mill part way and put a clamp in the center slot to help support things but maybe I am being overly cautious.

    Planning to do this manual lube/coolant. The mill doesn't have coolant system but I can give it a shot occasionally.

    I am not really concerned about edge finish. How rough is the finish going to be? I could clean it up with a standard mill but will skip that unless it is really rough.



  5. #41
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    Default Re: Making a radius punch and die

    What feeds and speeds for the 1/2" cobalt rougher taking a full width cut? Climb or conventional milling on the edges (on the full width cut it doesn't matter because both sides are cutting)?



  6. #42
    Member Jim Dawson's Avatar
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    Default Re: Making a radius punch and die

    Quote Originally Posted by Jim27 View Post
    Two edges were cut with some sort of torch. I can grind off a bit to get through the harder part although it doesn't seen much harder. How deep should I grind to get through the hardness?
    If you can mill through it then you may not have to worry about it. I normally grind back to the base metal, just take the rough edge off. If you can make the first pass well into the base metal, then you may not need to worry about grinding.

    I got a 1/2" cobalt rougher (actually 2 in case I break one...). Next issue I see is how to mount this to cut clear through. It is bigger than the table is wide so I can only clamp at the ends without some fixture. I am thinking I could space it off the table with some scraps of 1/2" aluminum or something similar. Then mill a slot half way across the plate. I could then put a clamp or clamps in that slot and mill the rest of the way. If I put the T slot nuts in place before starting I might even be able to add the clamps without loosing my location.

    I am thinking I want to make the cuts in the X direction so I can use the power feed to get even feed. If I do that perhaps I could center the cut over the table and use the outside T slots to clamp and not have to change anything while cutting. But there will be a fair amount of metal hanging off the table. I am thinking I should still mill part way and put a clamp in the center slot to help support things but maybe I am being overly cautious.

    Planning to do this manual lube/coolant. The mill doesn't have coolant system but I can give it a shot occasionally.
    Sounds like a plan. Many times I pre-stage T nuts. If there is a danger of filling the T nut with chips, screw a set screw into the T nut to keep the chips out until you are ready to use it. Cutting with the X axis is the normal way of doing it. Overall the setup is dependant on the workpiece, machine the work in your head and know what you are going to do before start making chips. A little air would be helpful to remove to the chips. Spacing the work off of the table will help in this regard also, gives the chips somewhere to go.


    I am not really concerned about edge finish. How rough is the finish going to be? I could clean it up with a standard mill but will skip that unless it is really rough.
    Not that rough, but it depends on whether you are using a coarse, fine, or finishing rougher. Maybe make a test cut and then decide if it is acceptable for the final finish.

    Quote Originally Posted by Jim27 View Post
    What feeds and speeds for the 1/2" cobalt rougher taking a full width cut? Climb or conventional milling on the edges (on the full width cut it doesn't matter because both sides are cutting)?
    About 400 RPM, maybe about 2-4 IPM. I would hand feed, it that way you can feel when the machine and cutter are happy. If you're careful and the machine is stable enough, you can make the full 1 inch DOC with a 1/2 rougher. Watch the color of the chips, silver to gold is OK, blue is getting a bit hot for that setup. As you say, making a full width cut, direction doesn't matter, but on the edge, on that machine you will want to conventional cut. Except for very light cutting, climb cutting requires near zero backlash.

    Jim Dawson
    Sandy, Oregon, USA


  7. #43
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    Default Re: Making a radius punch and die

    I was able to use a fairly large horizontal band saw with coolant on it. Awesome! Takes a bit of time but not terrible. Cuts came out nice. Now comes the pattern milling...



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Making a radius punch and die

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Making a radius punch and die