With my screenset, the Home switch needs to be at the top of the travel (and be set to Machine Coordinates Z zero). It's the only way to make sure that the Auto Zero functions wouldn't crash into the top of the Z on the multiple setups that people are using it on.I do use Gerry's 2010 screenset (which I think he did a great job with), and it may have something to do with how it's put together since I recall in his instructions that he highly recommends against setting your home up from the switch.
Actually, it should work pretty much exactly the same way that the standard screenset works. The buttons and DRO's are in different places, and look different, but any function in both the 2010 screenset and standard screenset should function exactly the same. Besides the additional featues, the only real difference is that the stock screen stores it's VB code in the buttons, and I have the buttons call macros (which contain the VB code). In use, the functionality of these buttons should be identical.There are definitely a few things that work a little differently in Gerry's screenset than they do in Mach's standard screenset, but mostly I've found those differences to be improvements. It could be that it's a safety (machine, not personal) implementation that it won't home the Z without it being off the home switch. I do have separate switches for home and limits, so generally I'd be safe anyways if it went up from home.
I didn't read every single thing you wrote, so I'm not sure exactly what type of issue your having. I've also never useany CS Labs products.
But, if the Z won't home because it's on the switch, why not just modify your posts (or SafeZ in Mach3) to send it just below the switch. While in use, my z axis never goes all the way to the top except when it's Homing. I actually keep my Safe Z at -.5 to keep it away from the switch. My g-code typically sends it to the Park position, which is set the same as Safe Z. (Call M883 in the g-code to send it to the Park position)