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  1. #49
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    Default Re: Which Electronics to Buy

    5 months later and I am finally building this machine. I am starting to go through the electronics. I am pretty sure that I got all of the stepper motors/drivers figured out, minus the ENA ports on the drivers and whether to use them or not.

    I have a question about the VFD/Spindle. I got the Hunayang VFD as Ger21 suggested, as well as the extra BOB to control it. But looking through his youtube videos, it looks like what I really want is a separate serial USB to RS485 converter. I have been trying to look around, but there is so much information out there I am really struggling to grasp what the correct answer is.

    Thanks!



  2. #50
    Community Moderator ger21's Avatar
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    Default Re: Which Electronics to Buy

    What breakout board do you have with the speed control? I'd try that first, and see if it works. That's what I did. When it didn't work, I then went the RS485-Plugin route. Personally, I plan on using a PCI serial port card when I actually set up the machine, as the USB converter, is rather loose, and I 'd want a secure connection. But for $8, the USB version may be worth a try.

    Gerry

    UCCNC 2017 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html

    Mach3 2010 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html

    JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
    http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)


  3. #51
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    Default Re: Which Electronics to Buy

    I got the one you mentioned earlier in the thread: https://www.ebay.com/itm/5-Axis-CNC-...c=1&rmvSB=true

    Ahh fair enough. That makes sense for long term use.



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    Default Re: Which Electronics to Buy

    So I had gotten it working. The VFD was programmed properly, and I figured out the UCCNC programming and got it modulating properly. I can't remember what I did, and apparently I only hit apply and not save as well. After I rewired everything I can only get the relay to kick on, but the 0-10v is just a constant 10v out. There was something small and stupid I did that worked, but am racking my brain trying to figure it out. Other than that spindle screen, is there anything else I need to change within UCCNC? On this breakout board is the PWM pin 1? Thanks guys!



  5. #53
    Community Moderator ger21's Avatar
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    Default Re: Which Electronics to Buy

    I think the PWM is pin 1.

    The only settings should be the PWM port and pin numbers, and the PWM min and max frequencies.

    Gerry

    UCCNC 2017 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html

    Mach3 2010 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html

    JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
    http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)


  6. #54
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    Default Re: Which Electronics to Buy

    I got the one you mentioned earlier in the thread: https://www.ebay.com/itm/5-Axis-CNC-...c=1&rmvSB=true

    Ahh fair enough. That makes sense for long term use.
    There is a new one with blue colour, but I do not know the differences.

    https://www.ebay.com/p/CNC-5-Axis-In...75.c100623.m-1



  7. #55
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    Default Re: Which Electronics to Buy

    Hmm, I definitely have it on pin 1. I think I tried a bunch others. Would it be possible that I either fried the board when doing final wiring, or now there is not enough current to supply the PWM output? The only changes I made was to pull the board off the mounts to get the wires more tidy, pop them back on, and instead of using a USB cable from my desktop, I cut the cable and am providing it 5v direct from the power supply, and the 12v now has a few more fans on it, both are from the 1 amp power supply, which I thought was plenty.

    Ohh... I guess one thing I did do was used a bad USB phone charger cable because I didn't want to cut a good cable. I thought only the microUSB side was bad, but it was shorting out the 5V PS when I tried to wire it up. I thought nothing of it, as when I fixed it with a different cable everything powered up properly. The relay still kicked on and off when I clicked M3. I figured that the PWM was isolated to the 12-24V power and isn't related, but I guess it is a $10 board. Any thoughts? I guess I could always just order another board or use the RS485 method. I was just hoping to keep it to 1 cable running from my desktop.

    That blue board looks almost exactly the same and is the only place I have found that actually says pin 1 is the PWM.... I may try and find it shipped a bit quicker than 2 weeks.



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    Default Re: Which Electronics to Buy

    So I tried switching over to the RS485 last night since I had ordered one when I started all this and was going to use it as a backup. Messed with it for a couple hours, did all the troubleshooting I could with the serial debugger I saw in the plugin thread. It looks like my VFD is just one of those that wont accept the RS485 signal. The VFD would stop flashing, but just go to all zeroes, so it saw the signal but didn't do anything with it.

    But, better news! Just before I quit, I reprogrammed the VFD again, and rewired the BOB and resetup UCCNC. It works now! I think my issue was an id10t user error. I am using the 2017 screenset, and when I click the spindle on, it starts at 6k rpm, and thats 100% the slider doesnt let me go beyond 100%, so I needed to type in the MDI to get it bumped to a faster speed which I then could use the slider.



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