Re: Working On A New "Timber Frame" Design and Build.
The oak table slab is bolted down, and and planted the feet and leveled the machine. Ran to the city and picked up a few pieces for getting the dust collection connected before surfacing the table top.
Re: Working On A New "Timber Frame" Design and Build.
Chip shields installed. Dust collection connected. Still need to do a little clean up on the hose attached on the Z axis, but want to run it and see how my overall hose management is going to work.
Re: Working On A New "Timber Frame" Design and Build.
Surfaced the table and bored and counterbored 192 holes for thread inserts. Had to cut about .045” off the oak slab to level it to the machine. Next up is cutting channel for aluminum T-slot extrusions.
Re: Working On A New "Timber Frame" Design and Build.
Cut all the slots for the aluminum extrusions. First coat of oil finish on it after knocking down any fuzz and sharp edges with some 400 grit sandpaper.
Re: Working On A New "Timber Frame" Design and Build.
Thanks Peter!
The "pit" is for fitting a 4th rotary axis. I have one of the Nema23 Belt drive China specials on my other machine. It does not have enough holding power or the resolution for the work I do on the rotary. Looking for other options. Anyone have suggestions without selling a kidney to pay for it?
I came across this and looking to see if it would fit in my pit and do the job.
Re: Working On A New "Timber Frame" Design and Build.
I installed the pneumatic components to power the air cylinder counter-balance then tuned the Clearpath motor again with the counter balance. Graphing the torque for the up and down movement of the Z axis was well balanced after the tuning. I have maybe 12 -15 psi on the cylinder and while the Z axis is moving I can hear the air flowing in and out of the 7 gallon air tank. At the end of the day the Clearpath motor really doesn't need the balance, but I did get a little more top speed out of the movement with the balance.
I ordered the rotary head linked above and requested a 4 jaw chuck instead of the 3 jaw shown. Now playing the waiting game for the vendor to ship and it to make the trip across the pond. I also ordered a tailstock separately which is coming from a vendor here in the states. I already have the linear rails and bearing blocks.
I have been working out the details of the rotary install and took a couple of screen shots. It is set up to be able to spin a 12" x 48" piece of stock.
Re: Working On A New "Timber Frame" Design and Build.
Thanks Peter! My wife is not impressed...lol She kept asking when is it going to be done. My response "It's all most done" I really had hopes of getting it completed in 4-5 months. I was considering ordering an Avid, but they were 16 weeks out on delivery. I was trying to beat that time frame. I was close! I received tracking info today on the rotary head coming from China and have some aluminum and other components in route to do the build/installation of the rotary axis.
I buy a lot of cutters from Your Carbide Cutting Tool Source The cutters are made by Monster Tool (I have received some drop shipments direct from Monster) They have standard length and long cutters. No "wood" cutters though.
Here is the finished mold in the video and a part made with it.
I have since used another mold making method of cutting a wood master from hard maple, and creating the mold with silicone. The downside is I could not get a good knurl pattern in the maple, but it produced a really nice mold and part.
Re: Working On A New "Timber Frame" Design and Build.
Hi Loren -I seal the timber with watered down pva or epoxy before I fill the txt. Then there's no chance of air coming out of the wood or the resin bleeding from the pocket ... It is a pain when it happens.. Peter