My New MIDI-Router Design - Production has started!

[widgitmaster]

I have looked at all of McMaster Carr's linear shafting, but none of them under 1/2" dia have threaded holes in them!

My routers were designed around the 3/8 shafts to keep the cost down, to reduce weight, and to keep the X,Y,Z axis components proportional.

Tomorrow I will contact Thompson to see if they stock or make 3/8 shafts with threads in them!

Widgit

[walter]

Beautiful work Mr Wigidmaster. Keep 'em coming

[widgitmaster]

Thanks Walt!

For the last week I have been very busy dealing with quotes, and trying to find plating shops that can anodize aluminum and black oxide steel parts!

At the same time I have been trying to squeeze in some shop time so that I can get these new Midi-Routers finished! All that is left is a few operations on the Dremel clamps, and on the motor mount standoff's. Then I'll need to make up a dozen long t-nuts to hold the Dremel clamp to the z-axis slide block! Then all that I'll need to do is debur and assemble them!

Here is a nice video of the rotary table making the outer radius on the Dremel clamps, this was done using a 1/4" 4 flute, 1 1/2" long end mill. Each pass was approximately .01-.02 deep.

Note that I left a dummy end on the clamp, that allows me to hold them in a vise for all the little operations, such as spot facing, drilling and tapping the three clamping holes. When all is done, I will band saw the dummy off, mill the top flat, and mill a 1/8" wide slot so the clamp will work when the three screws are tightened.

Had this part been done in a CNC machine, a 4th axis indexer would have made easy work of it! But I like to do things the old fashioned way!

This move is BIG, so be patient!
VIDEO (151 MB) Rotary table in action!

Widgit

[widgitmaster]

Finally, I finished a dozen of the Dremel #300 clamps!

Next I'll make the little stainless T-Nuts that are used to attach the clamp to the Z-axis slide block!

[rustamd]

Finally, I finished a dozen of the Dremel #300 clamps!

Next I'll make the little stainless T-Nuts that are used to attach the clamp to the Z-axis slide block!

Those are looking very good!

[Tom Brown]

I don't understand the idea of using a Dremel tool in a platform of this precision. Won't the Dremel seriously hamper the precision of the table? Perhaps the sideplay is much better than the Dremels I have kicking around in my shop drawer.

Is there a high precision Dremel available for a table such as this?

I'm in love with the table. It would be a shame to hamper the precision of a device that is clearly being built with tremendous precision.

It's a treat to see your work, Widgitmaster. Thank you.

[widgitmaster]

I don't understand the idea of using a Dremel tool in a platform of this precision. Won't the Dremel seriously hamper the precision of the table? Perhaps the sideplay is much better than the Dremels I have kicking around in my shop drawer.

Is there a high precision Dremel available for a table such as this?

I'm in love with the table. It would be a shame to hamper the precision of a device that is clearly being built with tremendous precision.

It's a treat to see your work, Widgitmaster. Thank you.

Thanks Tom,
Actually, the Dremel is so common, that you can get one anywhere!
That was the reason behind the Dremel choice!
BUT, the three 1/8" T-Slots on the Z-Axis slide block make my routers adaptable to most any 1/8" or 1/4" spindle! This is helpful for the people in Europe, where the motor currents are 50Hz, not the same as our 60Hz !

If you want extreme precision, use a pneumatic die grinder, with 60,000 RPM to walk the cutter through the material!

As stated in other threads & posts, I have tried to provide a precision unit free of electronics, so the non-mechanical people can have a router too!

Widgit

[widgitmaster]

Finally!
Today I finished the last of the parts for the Midi-Routers!
After an hour of assembly, they are ready to go!
If you would like one, send me an email to widgitmaster@widgitmaster.com or look for me on eBay! (Search for precision CNC router)

These babies will include two 1/8 t-nuts, two 1/4 t-nuts, three shaft couplings, twelve standoffs with screws for motor mounting, and Dremel mounting hardware & bracket!

All that's needed is the electronics and a Dremel model #300!

They weigh 20.5 LBs too!

Widgit

[boguski.1]

Absolutely BEAUTIFUL work!!! I've thoroughly enjoyed reading this thread. Make sure you post some videos when you're all wired up!!!


Brian

[JerryFlyGuy]

Widgit, do you have a complete spec sheet including the final price.
Just the basic's like x travel, y travel as well as the Z, stepper size, coupling type. Is some type of reducers req'd for each axis or note etc..

Thanks sir! They look pretty spiffy!

Jerry

[widgitmaster]

I have not posted the selling price, because I don't want to break the rules in CNCzone!


Suggested spindles tools would be:
Various 1/8 Dremel Tools
High speed pneumatic 1/8 die grinder (best)
Vibrating carbide points for engraving.
(These Routers have not been tested using larger spindles)

X-Axis travel: 8.250" (209.5500 mm)
Y-Axis travel: 9.700" (246.3800 mm)
Z-Axis travel: 2.090" (51.5366 mm)
T-Slot Plate Width: 11.250" (285.750 mm)
T-Slot Plate Length: 12.000" (304.8000 mm)
Opening Under Gantry" 3.875 (98.425 mm)

Height: 11.45" (290.83 mm)
Width: 13.2" (335.28 mm)
Length: 12.50" (317.5 mm)

Pre Packaged Weight: 20.5 Lbs

These units are fully assembled
and ready for Worldwide shipment! USA Shipping is approximately $55.00

[kfong]

Great job Widgetmaster! Regular dremel tool just don't do your work justice. You should look into making a motor mount for this high end dremel tool. Proxxon IB/E high speed spindle. We are using on our micromill and are very happy with it. This was purchased from Little Machine Shop. maximum run out .001. Here is a picture of it setup on our micromill.
http://www.embeddedtronics.com/micromill.html. Just cursor down near the bottom pages.

Kin

http://www.embeddedtronics.com/

[nkidd]

Well Mr. Widgitmaster I have to say that is some excellent work. It is amazing that you do all of this in your garage. I was wondering if I need more room under the gantry, could I get taller gantry arms from you (for a fee of course) or would I have to have some made? Not a big deal either way.
Thanks, Nick
P.S. Did you ever get your CD's from that guy?

[nkidd]

Double post sry

[widgitmaster]

Well Mr. Widgitmaster I have to say that is some excellent work. It is amazing that you do all of this in your garage. I was wondering if I need more room under the gantry, could I get taller gantry arms from you (for a fee of course) or would I have to have some made? Not a big deal either way.
Thanks, Nick
P.S. Did you ever get your CD's from that guy?

Making a set of taller side plates in not a problem!

NO, that guy never sent me the CD's, but he did take the three motor couplings I sent him!

Some people!




Widgit

[ZipSnipe]

Hey Master Widgit, as always you set the bar sky high, good work. Hey on your post#25 , you set a stand off in the lathe and then tap it. Where did you get that set up for your lathe or did you make it?

[widgitmaster]

Hey Master Widgit, as always you set the bar sky high, good work. Hey on your post#25 , you set a stand off in the lathe and then tap it. Where did you get that set up for your lathe or did you make it?

Thanks Zip!

Actually I had converted my new engine lathe to an 8-station turret lathe a few months ago, here is the thread:
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=33813

The tool holder is designed to put the drill chuck in the center of the spindle, and is held in the holder with one setscrew. All I did was loosten the setscrew, and put a little oil on the drill chuck's straight shank so it could spin and slide freely!

This procedure can be done with a standard Aloris tool post, using the boring bar holder and dial it true to the spindle.

Widgit

[widgitmaster]

So far I have built 11 of these Midi-Routers with 35 more in production, at a cost of $870+ each. Three have sold, and over 100 emails complaining about my choice of Dremel motor for spindle, too short z-axis travel, and a few requests for a 4th axis unit!

All this has me spinning in circles, trying to decide which area to approach first! The Dremel is no longer the primary spindle choice, as someone pointed me toward the Proxxon spindles! Several brackets are now being made to mount them to the Midi & Mini-Routers.

The short Z-Axis travel is an easily solved problem, by making an extension block kit that allows the usage of 6" long linear rails. But the Thomson linear rails are not exactly .250" in diameter like the hardened reamer blanks currently in use. That means the extension kit would require me to remake the z-axis top & bottom plates, modify the slide block bushings, and make a new lead-screw. This is more work, but it is doable! The riser block could be made in two pieces, allowing the user to place one on top, and one on the bottom, or both blocks on top or bottom. This would require an assortment of extra screws! The kit would more than double the z-axis travel.

The 4th axis unit has become a bit tricky, as no one seems to know how to use a face plate, and they all insist on the adaption of the Shirline 3-jaw lathe chuck. This steel chuck would require a relatively rigid spindle with ball bearings, as opposed to simple bronze bushings.

All these improvements will increase the cost, and the units still need over $500 in electronics to make them work! So I have no idea as to what to work on first! The Z-Axis riser kit, or the 4th axis? Or should I just go back to the Mini-Routers and forget about Bigger & Better models?

Two years ago I was retired and bored stiff, then I got the CNC bug! Cashed in an old Life Insurance policy, and bought a big mill, lathe, surface grinder & a band saw. Now I'm so busy that I have been putting in 9 hour days 7-days a week! Spending money like crazy, and making metal parts by the box full!
Man do I need a vacation!

Widgit

[widgitmaster]

Just so everyone knows that I do listen, I have redesigned the z-axis slide so it is much stronger and has a travel equal to the distance from the table surface to the bottom of the gantry. The z-axis now has a 1/2-10 acme screw instead of a 3/8-10, it has a Delrin nut which is more than double the thickness. And the slide rails have been upgraded from 1/4" unsupported to 3/8" supported style.

This improvement was made to enable my Midi-Routers to support a larger spindle motor, like a laminate router or 1/4" die grinder.
The other change will be the blue anodized finish on all the aluminum parts, except the top t-slot plate which will be hard coated for durability. The company which was made some of the more complicated parts has also engraved my little logo on the side opposite the y-axis motor. The front plate will have WidgitMaster and my PO Box address on it also!

This new generation for my routers has become the best ones so far, and should be ready for shipment in a few months. That's after I debur a few hundred parts, and polish them for plating! (a dusty mess)

The Proxxon clamps are also finished, and the Dremel clamps were made from black Delrin! Man do they look nice!

I will post pictures when all the pieces to this big project fall together, as everything is in boxes waiting for various processes to be completed. Such as plating the y&z axis slide blocks prior to installing and boring the bronze bushings!

I never realized how much work there is in orchestrating the production of such a unit, my time has been used up just running around making sure every shop is making everything to my specifications! But a few boxes of dough nuts has had a positive effect in every shop There are several parts which I must make in my garage, as they were too precision, and that made them too expensive to outsource! Hopefully the end results will have the same standard of precision as I had started with!

Widgit

[ClaudioG]

Hey Widgit

Those new gantry sides with the logo look great. Before I saw your pics I thought the product deserved one of your logos on it somewhere and maybe a serial #. I'll have to get a copy of that logo to put on my midi at some stage.

I'm glad I managed to get one of the few remaining 'in-house' built ones but I do like what you are planning for the Z axis, and other tweeks. Do you think the new Z axis be an upgrade option for the existing midi?

Looking forward to the next lot of photos.

Cheers,

Claudio