Another Aussie Auto Tool Zero Setter - Page 8


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Thread: Another Aussie Auto Tool Zero Setter

  1. #85
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    Quote Originally Posted by Greolt View Post
    EDIT: This is in metric. You will have to change some numbers if you still live in the Middle Ages. .......END EDIT
    Middle Ages?
    I suppose you are correct, since we live in the age of far lower standards and rampant ignorance.
    What can one expect from a system developed by a Frenchman who falsified his data to fit his expectations?
    Frankly, the metric systems sucks and it was forced on the French people by LAW because even the French thought it sucked.
    What is even more amusing is how many places are slowly going back to the old systems in spite of decades of government Metric mandates.


    regards,
    DJ



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    What more can I say ????? I rest my case.



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    Default We feel sorry.

    110v, NTSC.
    I have metric mill, imperial lathe, japanese car.

    Super X3. 3600rpm. Sheridan 6"x24" Lathe + more. Three ways to fix things: The right way, the other way, and maybe your way, which is possibly a faster wrong way.


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    Hi, I'm a frenchman that was impose to the metric system, as a mather of fact the metric system is much easier than the imperial one, one big advantage is that it doesn't have fractions. As an example: take 27 1/2 inche and devide this by 3 !!!?, now take 27mm and devide it by 3 ?



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    Bobinette,

    Quite simple really. Just go decimal inch and it is every bit as easy as metric. 27.500/3 = 9.16666----



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    Quote Originally Posted by MrWild View Post
    Bobinette,

    Quite simple really. Just go decimal inch and it is every bit as easy as metric. 27.500/3 = 9.16666----
    Yeah, I too find it funny that the metric snobs always claim there are no fractions in the metric system therefore it is better.
    Here's one situation that makes the metric system really hurt: what if you and two of your friends go in business together and buy and split everything three ways?
    Easy to do in imperial, hard to do in metric.


    regards,
    DJ



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    Hey guys, you're bugring up my favorite thread with your discussion of metric vs inches/feet. Nobody wins this argument. Please take it outside.

    In closing, I think we all agree, more power to the base 10!



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    Gold Member LeeWay's Avatar
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    Becoming proficient with both is where it's at.
    Now I know this is still a little off track for this thread, but I am still having difficulty with a faulty estop. Today I even used an isolator chip that runs off 5 volts to try and correct the issue. It didn't work for some reason. I have tried a couple different value resistors inline. Should they even be inline? Should they jumper the switch? I have also sleeved the estop cable with copper braided shielding and attached one end to the case. I now have the debounce set @ 24,000.
    I am using the same control box on my router though. Just switch the motor plugs and go. I haven't tried setting it to 0 on the debounce, but I don't get the errant ones in mid program. Any ideas?
    I only posted this here, because some of you seem to have figured out the debounce thing and I am unsure how to correct it at this point.
    Thanks.

    Lee


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    Hi LeeWay,
    I did conquer the circuit based debounce for the zero Z macro. It's not without issues like a small delay, but well worth the trouble. Here's a schematic I would use for an E-stop debounce circuit. I actually don't have an Estop working right now because of laziness. If my stepper motors over-run the table, no big deal, the machine is not going anywhere.

    To all,
    Please review and make sure I got this circuit correct, as I do plan to implement sometime in the future, and I don't want to publish incorrect info.

    Should there be a resistor in this circuit?

    Thanks
    Dave

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Another Aussie Auto Tool Zero Setter-estop-capacitor-schematic-jpg  


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    Hi Dave,

    I can't really read your drawing very well. Is there some other format that could be used?

    By the way, I'm now cutting asymmetric elliptical planform wings in foam ala Pearson of Encore DLG fame. They're pretty crude because I don't know diddly about the correct bits/feedrate/rpm's etc. So much to learn, but really rewarding. Now I'm learning the fine art of making jigs to hold things in registration...Plus figuring out a good way to keep MDF dust from going all over the place...

    Best regards,
    Mike



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    Hi Dave,

    Yeah, a cleaner view of your drawing would be good. From what I can make out you have the cap on the output side of the 5 volt.

    I think the problem we experience with EMI is that anywhere along the wire leading back to the parallel input it is prone to EMI. My thinking places that cap close to the input signal to take out and hold the small EMI spikes.

    Now I have to say electronics is mumbo jumbo to me so if I am totally wrong it would be nice if somebody (politely) points me in the right direction.

    cheers,
    Rod

    Perth, Western Australia


  12. #96
    www.joescnc.com joecnc2006's Avatar
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    The drawing is pretty clear to me, if you use a lower screen res. just save the image or click on it to enlarge it.

    resistor is from ground on BOB and to the line from the 5volt on BOB to the e-top botton, then estop bottom to the input pin you will use for the e-stop (alot of people use pin 10 i think).

    Joe



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Another Aussie Auto Tool Zero Setter

Another Aussie Auto Tool Zero Setter