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  1. #81
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    G'day Neil

    The compressor won't do double duty. As in suck and compress at the same time.

    However if you have an old dead compressor, get a cheap ebay vac pump and mount it on top of the old tank.

    Add a vac gauge and switch and you will have a great vac source for clamping etc.

    Greg



  2. #82
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    Default Hard Rubbish.

    Greg.

    Looks like I'll have to get a compressor off an old fridge for the suck job.
    Paypal not required.

    Neil.

    Super X3. 3600rpm. Sheridan 6"x24" Lathe + more. THREE ways to fix things: The RIGHT way, the OTHER way, and maybe YOUR way, which is possibly a FASTER WRONG WAY!


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    Greg,
    Have you posted the macro for your laser edge finder? I'd sure like to have it.
    [ame]http://youtube.com/watch?v=Oc-9gTFj-y4
    Great video.
    Dave

    PS, thanks for the info on the ShuttlePro macro too. Good stuff. I got my ShuttlePro working tonight.
    Dave



  4. #84
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    Quote Originally Posted by Glidergider View Post

    Greg,
    Have you posted the macro for your laser edge finder? I'd sure like to have it.
    Dave it is posted on this thread. Post number 11.

    http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=48752

    Greg



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    Quote Originally Posted by Greolt View Post
    EDIT: This is in metric. You will have to change some numbers if you still live in the Middle Ages. .......END EDIT
    Middle Ages?
    I suppose you are correct, since we live in the age of far lower standards and rampant ignorance.
    What can one expect from a system developed by a Frenchman who falsified his data to fit his expectations?
    Frankly, the metric systems sucks and it was forced on the French people by LAW because even the French thought it sucked.
    What is even more amusing is how many places are slowly going back to the old systems in spite of decades of government Metric mandates.


    regards,
    DJ



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    What more can I say ????? I rest my case.



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    Default We feel sorry.

    110v, NTSC.
    I have metric mill, imperial lathe, japanese car.

    Super X3. 3600rpm. Sheridan 6"x24" Lathe + more. THREE ways to fix things: The RIGHT way, the OTHER way, and maybe YOUR way, which is possibly a FASTER WRONG WAY!


  8. #88
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    Hi, I'm a frenchman that was impose to the metric system, as a mather of fact the metric system is much easier than the imperial one, one big advantage is that it doesn't have fractions. As an example: take 27 1/2 inche and devide this by 3 !!!?, now take 27mm and devide it by 3 ?



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    Bobinette,

    Quite simple really. Just go decimal inch and it is every bit as easy as metric. 27.500/3 = 9.16666----



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    Quote Originally Posted by MrWild View Post
    Bobinette,

    Quite simple really. Just go decimal inch and it is every bit as easy as metric. 27.500/3 = 9.16666----
    Yeah, I too find it funny that the metric snobs always claim there are no fractions in the metric system therefore it is better.
    Here's one situation that makes the metric system really hurt: what if you and two of your friends go in business together and buy and split everything three ways?
    Easy to do in imperial, hard to do in metric.


    regards,
    DJ



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    Hey guys, you're bugring up my favorite thread with your discussion of metric vs inches/feet. Nobody wins this argument. Please take it outside.

    In closing, I think we all agree, more power to the base 10!



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    Gold Member LeeWay's Avatar
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    Becoming proficient with both is where it's at.
    Now I know this is still a little off track for this thread, but I am still having difficulty with a faulty estop. Today I even used an isolator chip that runs off 5 volts to try and correct the issue. It didn't work for some reason. I have tried a couple different value resistors inline. Should they even be inline? Should they jumper the switch? I have also sleeved the estop cable with copper braided shielding and attached one end to the case. I now have the debounce set @ 24,000.
    I am using the same control box on my router though. Just switch the motor plugs and go. I haven't tried setting it to 0 on the debounce, but I don't get the errant ones in mid program. Any ideas?
    I only posted this here, because some of you seem to have figured out the debounce thing and I am unsure how to correct it at this point.
    Thanks.

    Lee


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    Hi LeeWay,
    I did conquer the circuit based debounce for the zero Z macro. It's not without issues like a small delay, but well worth the trouble. Here's a schematic I would use for an E-stop debounce circuit. I actually don't have an Estop working right now because of laziness. If my stepper motors over-run the table, no big deal, the machine is not going anywhere.

    To all,
    Please review and make sure I got this circuit correct, as I do plan to implement sometime in the future, and I don't want to publish incorrect info.

    Should there be a resistor in this circuit?

    Thanks
    Dave

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Another Aussie Auto Tool Zero Setter-estop-capacitor-schematic-jpg  


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    Hi Dave,

    I can't really read your drawing very well. Is there some other format that could be used?

    By the way, I'm now cutting asymmetric elliptical planform wings in foam ala Pearson of Encore DLG fame. They're pretty crude because I don't know diddly about the correct bits/feedrate/rpm's etc. So much to learn, but really rewarding. Now I'm learning the fine art of making jigs to hold things in registration...Plus figuring out a good way to keep MDF dust from going all over the place...

    Best regards,
    Mike



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    Hi Dave,

    Yeah, a cleaner view of your drawing would be good. From what I can make out you have the cap on the output side of the 5 volt.

    I think the problem we experience with EMI is that anywhere along the wire leading back to the parallel input it is prone to EMI. My thinking places that cap close to the input signal to take out and hold the small EMI spikes.

    Now I have to say electronics is mumbo jumbo to me so if I am totally wrong it would be nice if somebody (politely) points me in the right direction.

    cheers,
    Rod

    Perth, Western Australia


  16. #96
    www.joescnc.com joecnc2006's Avatar
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    The drawing is pretty clear to me, if you use a lower screen res. just save the image or click on it to enlarge it.

    resistor is from ground on BOB and to the line from the 5volt on BOB to the e-top botton, then estop bottom to the input pin you will use for the e-stop (alot of people use pin 10 i think).

    Joe



  17. #97
    Gold Member LeeWay's Avatar
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    I can see the drawing pretty well once I click on it. I am using a high res screen though.
    It shows a .01 Capacitor rather than a resistor.

    I am not actually using a 5 volt pin either, but pin 10 or 15. Tried both. What I haven't done is to check the actual voltage I am getting through the circuit. I will do that next. My ports are the PCI add in kind from Netmos. Perhaps I may need to change the type of mode they are in using the Bios? I am not sure if they are EPP or what. They are whatever the default is though.
    This is a Compaq machine with dual core Intel and it did not come with a PPort. This is the wave of the future I think and a sign that some of these guys developing USB alternatives will have a good market later on.
    Else we'll all be using G100's.

    Lee


  18. #98
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    Cool Try this.

    With care because this will disable the EM switch, disconnect at the BOB and bridge out then see if you create the problem. This will help prove whether the fault is garbage into the BOB, or garbage into the PC on the PC side.

    Put the 0.01 capacitor from the input (which is the emergency stop line) to ground RIGHT AT THE PCB
    If it still needs more snubbing try a 470 ohm 1/4 w in series with the EM wire.
    That is, between the E-Stop and the 0.01 cap, right at the input.
    The placement of the parts relative to the interference is important. It is not sufficient just to put it anywhere.
    If EM gets stuck on, the the 470 value needs reducing.
    You talk of pin 10 or 15. Isn't that on the PC side?
    If you are going to bypass any of the PC pins that needs to be RIGHT AT the DB25 connector on the PC.

    Super X3. 3600rpm. Sheridan 6"x24" Lathe + more. THREE ways to fix things: The RIGHT way, the OTHER way, and maybe YOUR way, which is possibly a FASTER WRONG WAY!


  19. #99
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    Guys, sorry you're having trouble with the drawing. When I click to enlarge it, it's crystal clear.

    Leeway,
    If you are not using a Parallel port, you are beyond my capability to help. Sorry.

    Neil,
    What is a EM switch?

    Dave



  20. #100
    Gold Member LeeWay's Avatar
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    Here's the setup.
    It is a simple BOB with no frills. I actually have a 203V back in there now in place of the 201. Had a little lizard trouble.
    I think I may have figured something out now though. The mother board and computer PS in this control box are not working right now. The computer running the machine is just sitting on a shelf back behind this box. When I grounded my shield cable, I did so to this control box and not the actual computer running this. I think this may be where I am having some trouble from. I have never had any noise issues in this box with Xylotex before. I didn't have any issues while the installed MB was up and running either. Perhaps this may be a light bulb moment for me.
    Thanks for all the help guys. I'll check back in later with some kind of results.

    PS. I am using a parallel port, but is the add in kind where you stick a card into the mother board. Just not on board or built in like they used to be.

    Another Aussie Auto Tool Zero Setter-oddmanin-jpg

    Lee


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