Need Help! First Build-Steel Frame-Cutting Area 2'3"x2'3"


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Thread: First Build-Steel Frame-Cutting Area 2'3"x2'3"

  1. #1
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    Default First Build-Steel Frame-Cutting Area 2'3"x2'3"

    Hello everybody! I’ve been a member for a while, but this is my first post. I guess I’ll start by telling you what my goals are, and then going over my current skillset/tools available to me.

    I’m building a CNC router with a cutting area of roughly 2’ 4” x 2’4”. Since all the parts I’ve sourced are off of eBay and Amazon, and are from China, I’ve been using the metric system with all of my measurements (sorry America).

    The frame is going to be built from steel, 1”x3”x 1/8” steel tubing, some ¼” angle iron, and some 3/8” aluminum plate for the Z axis. My design is very similar to a design I found on Instructables.com, the link is down below.

    I’ve already purchased almost all the materials and tools I’ll need. I will be using 20mm supported round rail (1000mm-X, 900mm-Y, and 300mm-Z). I will be using 16mm ball screws. I didn’t realize that I had to order the ball screws 50mm longer than the linear rails, so I’ll have to use some offsets to make it work.

    I plan on joining the steel tube with the angle iron, steel-filled epoxy sandwiched in between, taper pinned and drilled and tapped with M6 screws. This is the process I read about used by a guy who calls himself “MADVAC”. Apparently, this is the most accurate, most stable way of doing it and it ensures that I will be able to disassemble it and reassemble it with near-perfect accuracy.

    The design I have in mind is with the steel tube standing up and the rails mounted on the inside. This is the area I am most concerned with as I’m unsure how to perfectly align them. I’ve been thinking of tapping some holes behind the rails and sort of “set-screwing” the rails to the correct position, checking it with a rod mounted to the bearing with a dial indicator attached, and damming it off for epoxy when in position.

    For the electronics I have 3X NEMA23 Stepper motors @ 450oz/in. The drivers are TB6600 (from what I’ve read I will probably want to upgrade these eventually). The controller is an Arduino with a CNC Shield.

    For the tools I have: I have purchased several tools just for this project.

    -Wen 12” Drill Press w/ HF cross-slide vise
    -Evolution 10” Compound miter saw that can cut steel (cuts it really clean)
    -Dewalt angle grinder
    -Dewalt impact/driver
    -Forge for melting and casting aluminum and other lower temp metals
    -Anet A8 3d printer
    -Dewalt 611 Router (Spindle for CNC)
    -Homemade belt sander (12” wide/ made from treadmill)
    -Various taps and other small tools necessary

    I’ve modeled the design I have in mind in Fusion360 (The ¼” angle iron that will be used to join the corners have not been modeled yet). This was one of the first projects I ever attempted in CAD so I kind of learned as I went, and I’m sure I didn’t do things the “correct” way. I’m sure I could do some more work on this model but it’s good enough for what I need it for. Basically, I’m not looking for criticism of my CAD skills (haha), plenty of time for that once this is built. I also have had some practice since modeling this; creating objects for my 3d printer.

    So, included is the Fusion360 model, and some pics of what I have completed so far, including the Z axis.

    Any advice on my design and how to go about constructing this would be greatly appreciated!
    Thank you!

    Fusion Model: A360

    Design Inspiration: DIY CNC Router: 30 Steps

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  2. #2
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    Default Re: First Build-Steel Frame-Cutting Area 2'3"x2'3"

    Hey, how did this turn out? You used cheap chinese drivers, right? Were those good enough to run those massive motors? I just got the drivers and will get the motors in a week. 270oz-in, though. Some claim they can't even put out 2 Amp even though they are rated for 4amp or 5 amp on some. I'm a bit worried.



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First Build-Steel Frame-Cutting Area 2'3"x2'3"

First Build-Steel Frame-Cutting Area 2'3"x2'3"