After over three months doing models in SolidWorks I've decided to start my 2nd build.
My first was barely functional. It was a 17x17 all spruce frame. X rails are drawer slides, Y and Z are MGN12. No need to say I need an upgrade. :-D
To give you an idea:
Working in a cabinetmaking shop, I decided to work with a BB frame. This is the final design I made:
This design should give a working area of 750mm x 525mm x 120mm.
X Rails are 1000mm - 15mm profile
Y Rails are 700mm - 15 mm profile
Z Rails are 350mm - 12mm profile
Ballscrews are 16mm with 10mm pitch
Except for Z that will have a 8mm pitch acme screw with a preloaded nut. Made the design to accept a 16mm 5mm pitch ballscrew later.
For the electronic, I have GRBL or Mach compatible BOB. I might end up with Mach, but I'm woking with GRBL + bCNC since spring 2016 and frankly, it seems more than enough for a hobbyist like me. This part is the least of my concern for now.
I have 3 Nema 23 270 oz 1.6mH that will go for X1, X2 and Y
Z axis will have a 195oz 2.5mH. Don't remember the exact specs.
For the drives, I have a couple of TB6600 and an AM882. I'm going to do some testing to see where I put the AM882 but I suspect it will go on Y.
I know TB6600 are kinda crappy but it will have to do until spring when I'll have money to buy better drives.
I have several power supply 48v, 24v, 12v but I'm probably put my 48v - 10a adjusted to 40v so the TB6600 don't fry.
Since I'm most exclusively working with wood, I'm keeping my small Makita router for the time being.
That's a summary of what I'm trying to accomplish.
Similar Threads:
How are you planning on attaching the sides to the base you made? Looks like a nice build.
I wanted to use only lag screws every 8-10 inches but I'm going to feel more comfortable with lag screws and caprenter glue.
Not assembled yet but I put the sides to check the fit with the base. So far it seems square enough so I can proceed further and attach the sides to the base.
The base is way bigger than my old machine! That's the point of this exercise!
Hey! Your ATV has tracks on it! That is so cool.
Your router looks good too
Looking great! I like your design. Looks like we came up with some similar ideas. That should be a very sturdy machine.
Jeremy
http://www.diycncdesign.com/
1jumper: Tracks is essential in deep snow but my snowmobile is more fun.
Jpvonoy: Thanks! That was the whole point as my old cnc is flexing too much.
It looks like it will be a good solid machine.
Artistic 3D Relief Work for CNC http://www.cncproductionwork.com
Didn't do much, I only attached one side to the base.
I finally choose to glue the side using epoxy a there were small imperfections between the side and the base and felt that thickened epoxy would fill the small gaps (approx. 1/32) better than carpenter glue.
I made a jig using 1/4 mdf to position the screws #10 screws. Then machined squares in MDF to position the jig exactly at 81mm from the top of the side.
Then I used the jig on the base to drill holes for the screws.
I put a tiny coat of epoxy on the surface to be glued together then thickened the rest of the batch.
I applied an even coat on the base then put the side onto it an fixed it with the screws.
I checked 8 hours later and the side is still square with the base!
Now I got to find the time to put the other side. Hopefully during the weekend!
I attached the left side this morning.
The base and side were pre drilled using my jig so I appled a tiny coat of unthickened epoxy on both.
Let it soak for 10 minutes. During this time I thickened the rest of the batch.
I applied the thickened epoxy on the base.
The kig did a good job as every screws fit perfectly.
Now I let the epoxy cure I have what I think is a good enough base.
Had to wait for parts to arrive so I decided to test the AM882 driver I had but didn't had the time to test.
Find the error on this image.
The Leadshine is bulkier especially the heatskink!
I plugged it to a 195oz 2.5mH Nema 23 and a 40v PS.
At first, there is no whining form the stepper when it is at rest. This is a big plus compared to the TB6600!
The drive was configured to 64 microsteps when I first started my test. Wasn't even capable of hearing the little ticking noise typical to a stepper when it moves.
To have something to compare to, I configured it to 4 steps like the TB6600 on my current CNC.
I was able to spin it to 15 000 mm/min or 590 IPM which gives 1875RPM. At higher speed before the motor stall and the alarm kick in on the AM882. I like this stall detection very much! At 1875rpm the motor screams!
These RPM numbers are about the same as the TB6600.
I also tried at 8 microsteps and the max is 8 000 mm/min or 315IPM. (1000 RPM)
One thing I also like is the way the drive keeps the motor cool. After the same tests I did with the TB6600 driver, the motor started to get warm. Around 35 celsius using my laser thermometer. With the Leadshine, the motor and drive were as cool as when I started the tests.
Now I need to do more search on Ebay to find three other drives for my build... For the time being I will have to continue using the TBs.
Where di you get the AM882?
I have 4 of them, from 2 different sellers, but have been told by some that the EBay drives are fakes.
I haven't used them yet, but the last 2 I bought were only $59 each.
Gerry
UCCNC 2017 Screenset
[URL]http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html[/URL]
Mach3 2010 Screenset
[URL]http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html[/URL]
JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
[URL]http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html[/URL]
(Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)
I've got them at 69$ on Ebay; don't remember the seller. There was only one at that time and I only wanted the drive to test it.
I really can't say if it's a fake though. Any idea ?
I didn't open the case to see what's under the hood but even then I wouldn't know where to look to see if it is a fake.
The little test I did yesterday confirmed that even if it is a fake it perform way beyond a TB6600, but One could say that the bar wasn't too high!
I don't know how to tell either. I opened one up, and they certainly look legit to me.
Have you tried connecting it to the tuning software?
Gerry
UCCNC 2017 Screenset
[URL]http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html[/URL]
Mach3 2010 Screenset
[URL]http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html[/URL]
JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
[URL]http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html[/URL]
(Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)
Not yet.
I need to build a RS-232 cable first.
I found the pinout which seems to be :
DB9 - RJ12
2 -> 3
3 -> 5
5 -> 4
I did connect the drive and ProTune connects without problem.
The drive info Says that it is an AM882 and the year of the firmware is 2012. Looks like a real one to me.
They certainly seem legit, and I know someone that's uses a lot, and he's never had an issue with any of them. And at $60-$70 each, they sure are an awfully good deal.
Gerry
UCCNC 2017 Screenset
[URL]http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html[/URL]
Mach3 2010 Screenset
[URL]http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html[/URL]
JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
[URL]http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html[/URL]
(Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)
Another step was done yesterday with the lamination of an 3/4 x 1/4 aluminium bar in the side torsion box to have something to tap my linear rail bolts.
As per West recommandaitons, I did a slot 0.040 wider and deeper than the bar to make space for epoxy. As some place my crappy router kinda lost its way...
I sanded the alu bars with a 60 grit sand paper just before.
Again proceed to wet out the wood then thickened the epoxy.
I put epoxy in the slots then on the top piece of plywood and assembled the thing with clamps.
Next step is self-leveling the place where the X axis rails will attach.
Do I need to put epoxy on all the surface or can I just make a form where I have a strip of lets say 40mm under my 15mm rails and a patch 10-15mm wider than my bearing block?
Also, for a 1000mm span and 725mm between it, what would be the best way to setup the bridges? I was thinking of one 25mm wide in the center.
West recommended that with 105/206 I don't go thicker than 4mm each coat.